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Topics - Sesman
46
« on: June 12, 2021, 11:23:18 AM »
More progress. Waiting chrome and paint is being arranged. Engine build next week when I can get undisturbed access to the oven 
47
« on: June 11, 2021, 08:48:54 AM »
WARNING. There exists multiple conversion guides on this topic. The most popular one advises that to retain the original Speedo drive you need to machine the Speedo drive ring flat and secure it to the hub using flat head screws. I have the round hub. Beware, this doesn’t work on the 1977 F2 hub as firstly the screws need to be located towards the perimeter of the machined drive plate and secondly the Speedo drive will foul the drive ring unless the screws are countersunk flush. I’m not sure if a small shim between the Speedo drive may help. Advice welcome…. I found this out when I assembled the axle; the Speedo drive became locked solid with the Speedo drive ring! It’s bit of a dangerous oversight in my view  Or what did I do wrong?
48
« on: May 05, 2021, 08:10:58 AM »
Fresh out of the oven.....wife is at work 
49
« on: April 28, 2021, 01:48:27 PM »
Any tips on how to get those pesky little rubber ‘stopper brackets’ back into the instrument plate. I don’t want to be too brutal as they are the originals.
50
« on: April 20, 2021, 01:51:46 PM »
Would somebody mind posting a photo of a 550 F2 LHS foot rest. I can’t seem to locate the spring correctly without trapping one end of the spring in the u shaped clasp. I’v damaged my paint work three times now and I’m not convinced it’s installed correctly as the action is not very smooth. Joke is there only appears to be one logical way to do it!
51
« on: April 14, 2021, 10:16:17 AM »
Just received my refurbished clocks from Peter Horton of this forum. Absolutely fabulously work.
I was tempted to have a go myself, so glad I didn’t.
Thanks again Peter.
52
« on: April 11, 2021, 05:05:37 PM »
What am I doing wrong. I have a bearing left over from the kit and the seal won’t fit, being to great a circumference. Weird....
53
« on: March 31, 2021, 07:38:14 AM »
I was just wondering if their is a recommended replacement for the standard head lamp ears while retaining the standard headlamp. Unfortunately my headlamp ears need considerable restoration work (new indicator stalks...the po sawed them off  ), which will delay my build and I’m eager not to lose momentum. They don’t need to be pretty, just functional.
54
« on: March 27, 2021, 06:20:22 PM »
Evening all. Help please...again  I’ve got the stanchions in ‘V’ blocks and I’m measuring total run out in one leg of 2mm and 0.3mm total for t’other leg? Are these acceptable numbers or will I be doing some business with Mr Philpott?. I can’t seem to find this topic on the forum of in the workshop manual?
55
« on: March 26, 2021, 06:51:15 PM »
Ok, novice question of the week.
I presume the drug is incorrect and item 4 is on the wrong side of item 9 and if so does item 21 drive into item 3 or item 4?
The workshop manual is not too helpful on the dust/oil seal location or orientation.
Would welcome some help please.
Thanks
56
« on: March 20, 2021, 04:08:05 PM »
Houston I have a problem.  Having assembled my beautifully prepared front end, I think my bottom yoke has a slight twist in the vertical. Basically, with the top yoke in the straight ahead position the right fork leg is kicked forward by about 5mm...possibly more. I know, I know, I should have dry built and checked before moving on. Do I press on, install the wheels and take it from there or is there a quick and simple way to allay my fears. My skills, equipment and knowledge are best described as ‘crow-mag on’.
57
« on: March 15, 2021, 08:18:12 AM »
Has anybody used the taper head bearings from DS?. The QMP product includes a spacer, but no instructions. I presume the spacer is used on the lower yoke, under the bearing, but do I also need to use a seal of any kind which is not included in the kit.
I’ve trawled the site, but there doesn’t appear to be any definitive guidance on this specific topic.
If anybody could help I’d be grateful.
Cheers.
58
« on: March 13, 2021, 02:34:15 PM »
Just taken delivery of my frame, swing arm, stands, battery box and fork bottoms from Triple S of Bailden. 7 day turnaround and no issues whatsoever.
Absolutely resplendent in satin black. Fork bottoms in brushed satin silver looking like straight out of the factory.
Triple S are bike specialists, but also do other work. I’m really pleased with my items...try them
Photos to follow after the Rugby.
59
« on: March 06, 2021, 04:27:11 PM »
Virgin territory for me. Would appreciate opinions please before I proceed further.
Thanks
60
« on: February 25, 2021, 12:15:13 PM »
Novice needs help.
I’m about to rebuild my F and R wheels and need a little advice on hub finish. I’m thinking satin finish and 2k clear coat. But can anybody recommend a scotch bright wheel type and grade? Or perhaps wet and dry grade?
Or might powder clear coat be a better option?.
I’m trying to present the hubs as standard factory appearance without attempting concours levels of finish.
Any advice greatfully received.
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