Honda-SOHC

Further to this write-up about Honda ignition coil fixing:-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x0a4fcpmrwm3l19/Ignition%20coil%20fix.doc?dl=0

I have been going through all of the old coils for my bikes and repairing them.

One thing I have found is that on the early brown/beigy coloured CB250/350K coils, you can repllace the HT cables, without the need to solder anything.

On these coils you first look to see if there is a wooden dowel fitted (possibly bamboo) See pic below. If this is present, you carefully drill it out with a sharp 3mm drill bit. You then cut away any sealing epoxy around the HT lead, where it enters the coil body. You can then tug on the old lead and it should pull out completely, revealing a metal sharpened spike at the bottom of the hole. A new 7mm HT lead can then be inserted  fully into the hole, so that the the spike enters into the central conductor core wires  (takes a firm push). Before inserting the HT lead, you coat the the outside of the cable with high strength epoxy adhesive, making sure that none gets onto the metal spike. You can then hammer a sharpened bit of 3mm dowel into the dowel hole, to anchor the HT cable. Some coils don't have this dowel and just rely on the adhesive to retain the HT lead.

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Picture shows Dowel location

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Dowel drilled out and old HT lead removed

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You can just make out the metal spike at the bottom of the hole

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This shows a new HT lead inserted


On the CB450K0 bomber coils (grey plastic body) and later CB250/350K4 coils (blue plastic body), the HT lead conductor is soldered to a brass post inside the plastic, so you have to use a similar method , as described for Honda/4 coils. so, sorry no quick fix on these.
 
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This is a CB450K0 Black bomber coil with brass terminal exposed and a new piece of  7mm HT cable soldered to the post, prior to re-potting with epoxy resin adhesive & putty.

Has the world gone mad? 

https://www.handh.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-181---1964-lambretta-gt-200/?lot=54198&so=4&st=&sto=0&au=505&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=1&pp=48&pn=4&g=1


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see http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,26847.msg247429/topicseen.html#new

Never seen this discussed on here before so here goes. How resistant is the Honda factory paint applied in the  60's/70's to fuel with ethanol in it?

I am sure Menno will probably be able to answer this. 

Anyone on here had a go at TIG brazing ?

I have watched a few videos and they seem to use a #10 'Jazzy' Furick ceramic cup and the argon flow rate turned up to about 10 l/min. (just ordered a kit to try out).
They also seem to use silicon bronze brazing rods (no need for flux as the argon shields the braze).

Anyone know if silicon bronze can be chrome plated over OK? All the platers I have asked  are always very vague on what materials you can used to do repairs. The one in Hull says you can only fill repairs with steel but that's b*llocks, because I silver solder repaired my CB500K0 headlamp brackets and they turned out fine (I silver soldered them but Marquerstore in Coventry re-chromed them). Problem is that the exhaust I am repairing has lots of fixed internal baffling so the only chromers that will touch it in the north/midlands are the guy in Hull or Agbrigg in Leeds .. Agbrigg want £350 to chrome it, which is too expensive IMHO. The guy in Hull is about £200. He just chromed two of my mates CB500K2 pipes and they look a decent job. Agbrigg rechromed his CB450 silencers a couple of years ago and he reckons the quality wasn't brilliant.

Anyone go to Stafford today? if so how was it? I gave it a miss.

I am helping a mate restore an original  CB350F seat. I have welded the base and the original foam is  still really good. The cover too is original but was really dirty with ingrained muck and after cleaning thoroughly and then treating with Avon Skin-So-Soft it became a lot more supple and some of the orginal puffiness in the 'quilting' has came back. However, when it dried out after a couple of days it still looked really dull. I experimented with some furniture restorers 'adhesion promoter' and this brought all of the satiny semi-gloss sheen  back but was sticky for a few days .. it's now dried out and looks pretty good...really pleased with it. I applied the adhesion promoter and then realised it is 2-part and  I hadn't  use the part 'B' !    But it worked fine in the end and not so sure that the part 'B' would have helped anyway, as I was using this stuff for a non-intended application

However, this seat has the rather sh*tty chrome trim integral with the cover and all of the chrome is starting to peel. I bought some self adhesive chrome 'detailing tape' off eBay,  which is exactly the correct width to stick on top of the plastic moulding, which is chrome covered, as standard. However, it won't stick properly. I then bought some ultra-thin double sided tape but again, when backed with the DS tape, the chrome detailing tape lifts after a short time.

Any ideas? I did think of spraying with aerosol contact adhesive but that would need masking and not very forgiving if I cock it up 1st time.

The first couple of inches of trim on the LHS , has the detailing tape backed with DS tape applied to it  but the adhesion isn't brilliant.

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Spotted in this listing the seller says he also has a NOS -030 part separate to this listing.

This below is from my copy of 4/69 sandcast  parts book