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Topics - mgy66
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« on: January 28, 2016, 12:32:04 AM »
Hi, this one is a follow up on my previous Idle and Startup Setting where i was questioning my carbs tuning.
I ended up taking out the carbs for a good ultrasonic cleaning... I recommend using at least 2l cleaner machine (i bought 1.3 and it is just enough for 1 carb).
So far so good except I thought I would take out the rubbers that are fixed onto the top cover and guide the throttle rods. I think they are here to prevent dust to go through the top covers into the cars. As they hardened with age they broke on me!
Unfortunately, this is 'discountinued'. Nrp or DS or even in the US, all I could source are the 'dust cap' from 1976 (on the super sport) that are mounted on the connection between the rods and the lever, at the adjuster screw level. These are sliding with the rods and are about USD12 each...!
Has anyone try to mount these onto a K1 to K5? It looks like it is the same function though mine are fix onto the top cover.
My other option would be to rebuild the carbs w/o the rubber and us some silicon to make the seal... Ugly, I know!
Any thought?
BTW, it was worthwhile to do the whole exercise... I hope I have solved my starting prb as I found one needle clip at level 3 where all were at level 4. Plus you would not believe the amount of dirt. It's got to run better now, until I can rebuild:)
Many thanks
mgy
2
« on: January 11, 2016, 06:24:13 PM »
Hi,
Following on previous post to get better understanding on the right carb set up. I have a K1, big bore 830cc. Pilot #40, Main 110, air screw at 2.0.
I went through a carb balancing procedure (using 4 gages) and setting the readings at 150 Hg/mm.
I ended up with adjuster screws fully turned to lowest position, while in the Haynes it recommends to keep 1.8mm between the stopper nut and the tip of the adjuster screw. The idle is holding up for few secs but I need to rev up at red light or it would fade and stall.
Also, for my understanding does anyone know if the adjuster screw move only the throttle valve or is it both the throttle valve and the needle together?
Another question on my settings is the 26mm floater position. Can I get confirmation it is 26mm when the floater is up (floating valve closed)? Would a higher position overflow the carb or would foul the plug (assuming it is not high enough to reach the top of the carb to prevent closing of the valve nor the bowl gasket as I would notice leakage at the gasket).
Many thanks,
Marc
3
« on: December 05, 2015, 06:47:54 PM »
Hello,
I have recently replaced the ignition breakpoint by an electronic ignition. The device is great and very simple to install and adjust.
I had issue with difficult start, specially in wet whether/morning. The idle is now much more stable.
Only drawback is that the idle is stuck at 2k even if the idle screw is completely down and not in contact with the carb lever (K1).
I have new throttle cables with a bit of slack as required from Haynes and return spring is strong. Carbs snap back if I let the throttle goes back free.
My question is really around this other return cable... I read the manual wrt 'adjusting link pin clearance' and suspect it may come from wrong set up. When I turn the throttle beyound the idle point, I have the required clearance(2-3mm with the excentric pin) but noticed it does not affect the idle speed.
What the operation of throttle beyound idle point is supposed to do on the carbs? Could it be the root cause of a high idle rev?
Many thanks for your guidance...
4
« on: July 27, 2015, 08:26:02 PM »
Hello,
I have an unstable idle. I have checked all leakage, all tight, new silicons, new air filter, floatters at 25mm. I also went into the recommended WD40 to detect air entries, nothing. I have new pilot and main jets standards, 4 in 4 and standard air box with new filter...
I have noticed that when at idle, if the engine start reving up I have quite a good control from the throttle handle. I can close up the throttle and for it to rev down. So I am questioning whether my throttle really comes back to idle... though i can here the levy holding the carb needles hitting the idle screw when i let the spring and handle free.
Do you know what is the function of the gap / 'negative' throttle?
Do you know why is the idle screw so sensitive? It looks like there is nothing between a weak 1000 rpm and 3000 rpm. Would the position of the throttle cut away affect this, i.e do I need to play with the double bolts on top of the needles?
Thanks and sorry for the long post...
5
« on: July 13, 2015, 06:51:59 PM »
Hi,
I have my 750K1 pressure gage tripping after 15min usage (London commute exclusively). The bike was rebuilt with a 850 cc kit. I have checked the oil temp from the side tank... 82C/180F to 92C/200C. I have put the bike to factory spec (jets, filter box, exhauste 4 in 4, air screw I tried 1 and 1.5 turn).
Anyone has a measure in similar condition (UK is not specifically a climate for high spec oil)...
I have given it for check and oil replacement. My workshop specialist said the oil pump is fine (I suppose he has also checked the valves) and refill with standard 10W30 semi-syntetic, but still tripping after 15min.
I have noticed the earlier discussion on oil selection. Shall I try a more high temp mineral oil? What would be the reference, I always mix up the grades...
Could it be the oil pressure/temp gages?
Thanks for helping
6
« on: May 06, 2015, 12:29:05 PM »
Hi, this is my first post as I am going through some rough time with my 750k1 (1970).
Question: Bike has been fitted with 810cc kit. Do I need to resize the pilot jets #40?
Here is the long story: I have bought the bike a year ago and I never got to start it properly.
I have refitted new coils with a professional and have inserted new pilot jets.
Diagnostic is that choke (up=open/choke activated) would not help at all the start up. I have to open the idle by one turn to hope getting the bike to start. If successful (probably after half load of a battery), then the idle is about 1000rpm for say 30sec then moving up to 3000 rpm. Once running and hot, I have to turn the idle screw back to get to 2000 rpm but very sensitive and can not keep the 1000 rpm (would stall).
Bike is running ok apart from start and idle. Carb balance checked and air screw checked (velocity stacks now but also tried original filter).
Checked the carb bowls, clean no residue. I have also tried new pilot jets #40 but redrilled at .60 mm hoping that the increase in cc would require an increase in the pilot tip... Could be to much though (black residue on the spark plugs). Having said that, the increased piston diameter should create more depression and increase the flow throuth the tip, hence not sure if I need to increase the tips in the same proportion.
Tryied original spark p. and platinium type. All are rather black on the outer diameter but the center is brown and when running, the bike has good response.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
(Pictures to come)
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