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Messages - Underdog1
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106
« on: July 13, 2018, 02:40:19 PM »
Nope, the ground to the horn is PN 38105 323 000  Or 38120 392 620
Mate just had another look at the wiring diagram and it seems the horn button does ground on the bars http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb750k/technical_reference/WD750K6.pdfSurely this would require a good ground to the bars and a good ground from the bars to the upper fork clamps. Might have to sand a little bit of powder coat off. Some positive news today, my V5 finally arrived after many headaches. DVLA were particularly useless. I’m side mounding the plate so going to have it in 3 lines, what’s the correct format for this? I’ve seen: X XXX XXX XX XX XXX And XXX XXX X
107
« on: July 09, 2018, 10:36:44 PM »
Change any bullet and spades. If you see any green on the wires, then cut back. Corrosion is not your friend on these old girls
I found a little corrosion on a regulator the other week that cooked a brand new battery 
Ok might as well go all in then. I had to stick a punch of bullet connectors on a universal speedo gauge, I thought Honda used 3.5mm connectors so bought some on eBay and they seem a little small, the female connectors are fine but the males struggle to stay in. I’m guessing I should be using 3.9mm? Any recommended sources or are they all much of a muchness?
108
« on: July 09, 2018, 10:08:28 PM »
I think I’m going to repair the old harness and try that, conditions not too bad, couple of connectors need cleaning up and the connection to the battery +ve is a little fried.
What else can I do outside of a spray with contact cleaner to try and improve the state of all the bullet connectors?
109
« on: July 08, 2018, 08:38:52 PM »
Nope, the ground to the horn is PN 38105 323 000 Or 38120 392 620
Yeah I’ve got that, just connects the horn to the harness by the coils, so all good there. Next step is to get some batteries in my multimeter and start poking around. Wish I’d just spend the extra few ££ and got a K6 harness rather than shoehorning an earlier one in
110
« on: July 08, 2018, 08:00:45 PM »
The horn needs to go to ground , the earth lead and the coils If you have drilled the bars, be careful that they don't snap 
I think the ground for the horn is in the actual switchgear itself and grounds to the bars? Would make sense as the horn could be weak from having to ground through a layer of powder coat. They are steel bars so should be good to go with a few little holes
111
« on: July 08, 2018, 04:55:17 PM »
Had some slow progress today with the wiring. Basically all I’ve managed to achieve is an oil pressure light and a gurgle from the horn. Tried the horn directly onto the battery and it’s plently load which makes me think it’s a ground issue. The frame ground is bare metal as I’d already sanded it back. I haven’t sanded the frame on the engine ground as I didn’t think it was needed. Seeing that the switches ground through the handlebars should I be removing paint for this? Only one of them (left) has that drilled locating tab. 
112
« on: July 08, 2018, 07:35:42 AM »
Also attach the brake rod to it, not easy to get the pin in and the split pin afterwards
All sorted now. Spent ages trying to crack it with the swingarm still on but it’s impossible to get the spring into place so had to strip the rear end back down like you said. Made some good progress, both wheels on, both brakes on, bars internally wired and installed. Hopefully can crack the electrics today. One thing I’ve noticed is there’s a reaaaally tight clearance between the swing arm grease nipple and the little bracket for the carb bowl overflow tubes at the back of the engine  Ive purposely bent the bracket to allow enough clearance there, it’s not the original grease nipple as that one snapped a while ago when it hit that bracket when installing the swing arm for the first time! Have I missed something here?
113
« on: July 06, 2018, 08:32:21 PM »
The rear brake mechanism goes to the front of the swinging arm (between the arm and engine). It needs to be put on (through the frame mount) before you put the swinging arm on
This goes on before the arm
(Attachment Link)
Well that’s a pain!
114
« on: July 06, 2018, 07:06:21 PM »
Done a few things this week, a friend sandblasted the inside of the tank with mediocre results so I’ve cut the two flat sections on the bottom out for better access, will see what that yields! Managed to get some huge chunks of resin out though.
Wheels are back and quickly stuck the rear on when I finished work, can’t seen to get the rear brake mechanism in place as it’s hitting the swingarm. Very close though so might just be that the bike needs to be on the ground to move the swingarm up to allow the linkage into place.
Also had a small amount of rust in the oil tank, soaked in vinegar all week which cleaned it up nicely, then neutralised with bicarbonate of soda. Unfortunately I got a bit of flash rust so may just use bottle brushes and carb cleaner and see how I get on
115
« on: July 04, 2018, 12:21:56 PM »
I just adapted a cheap car engine stand with some angle and threaded rod. Probably the cheapest way and can be used for anything 
116
« on: July 02, 2018, 10:41:31 PM »
On my CB350F I had a 2 piece system made up.
The upper section (master cylinder to brake light union) was a direct replacement but the lower section is a single flexible hose with no metal piping involved.
Think that’s what I’m leaning towards, the seller annoyingly wants me to give him all the exact measurements so he can make them up. As I don’t have any standard brake hoses handy and I have lower than standard bars I’m probably best off having someone local make them up I think
117
« on: July 02, 2018, 11:39:07 AM »
After some braided hoses for my CB750k6. Seen HEL recommended on here so messaged a seller on eBay and although it’s advertised for a CB750k he couldn’t confirm if the ones pre made up by HEL use the rigid metal pipe or not (I don’t want to use it).
He said he actually makes them up to order aswell and can do it in a number of ways,
firstly he can do a like for like replacement which retains the original brake switch and be in three pieces to replace the upper hose, lower hose, and metal pipe bit
Secondly he can do a two piece (replacing the lower hose and metal pipe with once piece) again retaining the original brake switch
Thirdly he can do a once piece which requires a banjo pressure switch bolt for the brake light (I actually have a brake lever with a switch built in.
What do most people go for? To be honest I’d like a once piece but since I’m wiring my bars internally I don’t want an external wire heading down to the loom, and where the connection for the brake switch is on the bars it would require another separate hole if I wanted it internally routed, think the handlebars will have enough holes in them as is!
118
« on: July 01, 2018, 08:01:46 PM »
Think the 160mm air gap would be more accurate a measure if you were to drain and then refill the forks as it would accommodate any residual oil left inside the assembly and not cause you to increase the volume.
It's not too critical as 145ml should be fine to make sure all the damper functions are covered and operated as expected.
You'd trim the 160mm measurement if you wanted to get the air gap adding to the spring rate (it effectively makes an air spring if the fork seals hold the pressure) as the fork reached full compression. To be honest, it's not something most people would notice in general use.
If the fork stoke is 102mm, you've got to allow at least that before the oil hits the top of the fork cap and stops it compressing hydraulically.
So in reality, allowing for some space above the oil, you've only probably between 130 to 160 to play with total.
If they are totally dry then 145ml is accurate enough. If not certain, then with springs installed the 160mm is probably most concise.
Forks are bone dry so might just pour in 145ml and see where that gets me, thanks for shedding some light on this.
119
« on: July 01, 2018, 06:49:24 PM »
I did re-stake mine Just gave it a sharp belt with a punch.
The spokes soon go black if you don't clean them.
might as well just in case then if its that easy. Im still yet to put oil in my forks as I've not got the front wheel back yet but will be doing it this week sometime. I've got Hagon progressive fork springs and im unsure about how much to put it. On the website it state 160mm air gap: https://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=400-083-02the instructions that came with the forks don't mention any air gap and are incredibly vague. is it a case of just filling the forks up to 160mm from the top of the tubes and thats it? presumably thats with springs in. If anyones got any experience fitting these then please pipe up! The shop manual for the standard springs suggests 145CC of ATF oil in each fork. Would be easier if Hagon specified a volume rather than gap
120
« on: June 30, 2018, 09:43:49 PM »
There looking smart so will be worth it in the end.
Cheers mate, would have rather blacks spokes but they were more hassle than they were worth. Should I be restaking the rear wheel bearing retainer and hub bearing retainer? Nothing mentioned in hondamans book about it
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