This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - heliwilly
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
106
« on: December 30, 2018, 09:06:12 PM »
Thanks Trigger,
That helps immensely. Are the pins mild steel as well?
Bill W.
107
« on: December 30, 2018, 07:39:12 PM »
Hi Trigger,
Thanks for the quick reply.
This is the seat I bought. Seems OK apart from a couple of dents in one of the alloy seat trims, and a small split in the seat pan. Should the split be welded or brazed? That's why I wanted to remove the trims. How easy is it to persuade the trims to come off and leave the rivets in place?
Cheers
Bill W.
108
« on: December 30, 2018, 05:27:31 PM »
Hi
Where is the best place to buy replacement F2 seat foam and is there anywher that repairs existing seat covers?
How easy is it to remove the alloy seat edge finishing strip without damaging it.
Thanks
Bill W.
109
« on: December 25, 2018, 07:29:48 AM »
Hi Moorey,
As far as I know it was the normal procedure for a hip replacement. top of femur removed, new ball fitted with spike into femur. socket reamed out and a new one fitted. I had an epidural and a general anesthetic, and found that by the time the epidural wore off the op site just ached rather than being painful. It is surprising, as you have found out, what a difference a day makes.
Keep up the good work and have a great Christmas and New Year.
Bill W.
110
« on: December 23, 2018, 05:11:22 PM »
Well done, I had my first hip done 11 years ago at 65, and my second 6 years ago. Epidural and General anaesthetic. Had both ops at approx. 7pm on a Thursday, and was eating lunch at home on the Saturday. The NHS care was fantastic and the surgical team brilliant on both occasions. Only ever use sticks. There was very little discomfort. When I discarded my last stick after 2 weeks, it felt great. The more I walked, the better it got. Now I can't tell the difference between my old hip joint and my new ceramic ones. I am back to as I was as a 20 year old, movement wise. Stick with it and as you have found out it gets better on a daily basis.
111
« on: December 22, 2018, 01:47:09 PM »
LesterPiglet,
How can you tell they are after market shocks, or that the indicator brackets are wrong??
Were you looking at the photo Nurse Julie posted??
Bill W.
112
« on: December 20, 2018, 06:47:30 AM »
Thanks for the reply.
Bill W.
113
« on: December 19, 2018, 10:57:16 PM »
Thanks Graham, still a lot to learn.
Were the rear shocks fitted with open chromed springs or shrouded ones?
Thanks
Bill W.
PS. What's the going rate for a full engine overhaul?
114
« on: December 19, 2018, 10:36:50 PM »
Hi, Could someone give me the model designation of this frame Number, is it F2 orF3?
The DVLA gives the T reg number as manufactured 1979 and First Registered May 1979.
I thought the CB550's stopped being made in 1978??
I read the frame No as either CB550F 2411276 or CB550F 2111276
Your thoughts welcome. Bill W.
115
« on: December 11, 2018, 01:12:25 PM »
Have you any idea of what sort of a restoration he wants.
1/ Just get it into a clean and tidy roadworthy working state.
2/Everything give a good clean and all rusty parts removed and replaced.
3/ A full nut and bolt restoration involving a complete strip down of the bike
and the engine removed, stripped and repainted, carbs vapour blasted and recalibrated.
All damaged parts, ie exhaust, removed and replaced. New battery fitted.
I am retired now so the main expense will be cost of parts replaced. I was a mechanical engineer before I retired and have the ability to sort most things mechanical. I am at the moment working on my own '77 CB550 F2.
Bill Worsley.
116
« on: November 23, 2018, 07:13:10 AM »
What was/is the normal finish for the inside of petrol tanks? Bill W.
117
« on: November 21, 2018, 11:31:49 AM »
I bought a tank that had been badly dealed with POR15. The internal filter was bunged up and the liner had started to peel away, it had been that badly done.
Frost restorations who are an agent for POR15 suggested I use POR Strip C225, which is basically an industrial strength paint stripper. I would think Acetone will work as well, but never tried it.
Bill W.
118
« on: November 14, 2018, 02:17:12 PM »
Thanks for the information.
I will contact the seller and ask for a full refund.
Thanks Bill W.
119
« on: November 14, 2018, 07:13:03 AM »
Hi All,
Just wondering how easy/hard it is to remove old tank sealer. The one I bought hasn't been cleaned out properly and the sealant has peeled and the metal has rusted underneath. What would the cost be to get it removed? Is it a DIY proposition? I have the option to return the tank to the seller?
Any advice appreciated. Bill W.
120
« on: October 30, 2018, 10:14:27 AM »
Thanks for the replies. I think in future I will be using a barrier grease. Which is the best to use. I have used copper based grease on somr car applications, but this is the first motorbike engine for 50 years. Thanks Bill.
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
|
Show Posts