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Messages - MrDavo
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1201
« on: March 30, 2016, 09:32:21 AM »
I cannot see that that magazine would get a prototype model for testing .
That's exactly what happened, YLY70H. I have a copy of a Classic Mechanics roadtest on that bike as restored, downloaded from a link on here, and funnily enough there is no stripe! You can see why they would have 'corrected' that, but now we know it's actually wrong.
1202
« on: March 30, 2016, 09:24:23 AM »
On mine the frame number is 279 higher than the engine. If they are close you can be more confident they came from Honda as a pair from new, if they are thousands apart you would wonder why. I wonder what became of the 'matching numbers' custom we saw for sale the other week? Imagine buying that and then reading this thread! 
1203
« on: March 30, 2016, 09:15:08 AM »
While we are on the subject (ish) has anyone got a new or vgc left hand K1 strip for sale? Will pay cash or swap for a pair of VGC K0 ones. I could mask and paint black stripes on mine, OK until the paint starts to chip or flake around the edges. 
1204
« on: March 29, 2016, 08:30:29 PM »
I just had a look at the footage, stone me, yes there is a black stripe along the strip as per the K1. That is no 'ordinary' K0 sandcast though, its one of the 3 pre production prototype bikes, first shown in LA, AFIK. Someone will be along soon to tell you which one, and what happened to it.
You notice the outlet part of the horn is white plastic not black? - that's one of the protoype's features. I dare say the stripe wasn't used in production of the K0 but readopted later.
My General Export K1 has no stripes, but there were a number of incorrect K0 features on it when I bought it, after an inaccurate restoration. However I do have pictures of other K1's with no stripe, but maybe people polished them off when they got tatty. I have a correct NOS right hand strip, with the stripe, but can't get a left hand one!
1205
« on: March 11, 2016, 03:14:28 PM »
I'm sure that DSS will be the most approved source on the web(?)
The point is that if you want stuff to be a guaranteed fit and do a perfect job, only put parts on your bike that come in a Honda bag, with the correct part number. This is what DSS sell, wherever possible.
1206
« on: March 10, 2016, 12:35:36 PM »
This stuff is like gold dust, thankyou.
Can anyone point me at an online copy of the user's manual for a CB750 K1? I know where stuff is and how to work it, but would still like to know what Honda wanted me to do, and how often.
1207
« on: March 09, 2016, 03:15:00 PM »
They all do that.
When the valve is fully open the tappet will be square on to the valve and pushing straight down. This is because the rocker moves in an arc, around its shaft, where the valve has to move in a straight line. If the gap were parallel to the tappet at rest when the valve is shut, the 'wedge' would occur during the opening, causing uneven wear and possibly upsetting the valve timing.
1208
« on: March 07, 2016, 07:23:48 PM »
What Kevin said, but I didn't have any documentation for the NOVA, just the number. They did miss it the first time (despite me putting a fecking great ring around the number with a red felt tip) and sent the forms back anyway, though. I rang the HMRC number they provided me with who advised me, on checking the number that:
(a) The duty on the bike was 'secured', ie paid up.
(b) DVLA were a bit thick.
1209
« on: March 03, 2016, 03:31:30 PM »
I hate Carol Nash with a passion because of their exorbitant fees to make any alteration. They also made me ride a horrible Suzuki 650 for a summer when my Sportster got nerfed.
Bennett's for me, £80 odd for the CB750 fully comp, similar age and NCB to you.
1210
« on: March 01, 2016, 12:38:44 PM »
A rubbish photo, but here's Candy at our mission objective, Compo's Cafe in Holmfirth.  Cod, chips mushy peas, bread and butter and a pot of tea put the clutch under even more testing conditions going back up the hill.... BTW, I did file the tabs, as grinding them had left burrs to the tab edges. It didn't go back until it all moved smoothly.
1211
« on: February 29, 2016, 03:46:46 PM »
News from the front, all sorted, thanks for your help. Saturday was spent mostly grinding 1mm from each of 84 tabs. I decided that while a machine shop could do a better job, eventually, and that really I should send them back to the USA because they weren't right, sod it - I want my bike on the road now, not another delay wasting time I could be out riding. After doing the first plate I taped them together in pairs to save time. It still took me all day to get to this stage though, all back in and tightened up:  I had discovered that the concave washer was missing, so I got a new one, and a new tab washer, and tightened up the clutch nut with my new tool. As well as plates and springs, I replaced the lifter plate which had the end of a tab snapped off in a previous life, it's well documented how to do this:  I haven't noticed less vibration, but it can't have helped the balance any as it rotated with a bit missing. After finishing, testing and still finding getting into first a bit clunky, I did some reading and discovered I had been setting the cable wrong, and not leaving a bit of slack when doing up the adjuster at the clutch end. That made all the difference - I now have a one finger operation clutch, with the bite point where I want it. After years on Brit twins I cant believe how light the clutch is. As proof of the pudding I went for a ride and thrashed her up the same hill, past Dovestones Reservoir and over the border into Yorkshire. No clutch slip this time, just howling HM300s and a big grin. 
1212
« on: February 24, 2016, 04:11:20 PM »
It is a standard right handed thread, using the right tool helps (you can get them fairly cheaply on eBay) though in the past I have used a hammer and drift. Dog rough though, and damages the nut.
For locking up the motor, assuming it is still in one piece, you could try wrapping an old length of chain around the gearbox sprocket and use a pair of mole grips or similar to hold the two loose ends together and stop it turning, be careful though, maybe use a rag to stop nasty marks. I have done this, again its not pretty but can work. Once apart, ironically it can be much easier to lock up an engine to tighten and loosen things.
Someone may be along soon to express their horror, I'm just saying what has worked for me when in a bind, particularly when I was in a race paddock and not at home in the garage.
1213
« on: February 24, 2016, 10:45:49 AM »
DSS tell me they will have the real thing in stock next month. In the meantime, in the absence of any reply from Z1, I'm clearly stuck with what I've got, and having bought new pates I would like to use them if I can.
I spoke to a mate with a lathe (and a bikeshop), who thinks mounting them in a lathe to remove metal from the O.D. would be a pain, but he has done a similar job to get pattern Suzuki plates to go into a banded clutch, exactly the same problem.
He suggests I have a go at fixing 2 or 3 plates together, using an original as a template, and having a go at removing metal from the tabs (I have a bench mounted rotary grinding wheel, and yes, I know that I have to be careful not to 'clog' the wheel when grinding soft metal). As long as they fit inside the band he doesn't think finish or balance would be an issue, so I'm minded to have a go at the weekend. If it works, job done, if not I still have a set of expensive pattern plates I can't use.
1214
« on: February 22, 2016, 04:07:03 PM »
Thanks for the kind offer flatfour, if I can't get the real thing or make the ones Ive got fit I will take you up on it and send a myhermes man to pick the plates up, I'll pm you if I need them. Like you if possible I'd rather fit new. As all the CB750's on the road are all slowly consuming clutch plates it seems amazing that this is one of the parts that Honda can no longer be bothered with in the light of their previous support for life policy. Slivers have 3 plates, I'll email to see if they expect any more, ever. If they do expect some then flatfour's plates would keep me on the road, mine are definitely shot, comparing them with new. Interesting James had the same issue. How hard could it be for pattern parts makers to just make them the same size as Honda did? CMS' plates are also pattern, so they may well have the same issue. Z1 aren't replying to my emails, so its not looking good for a refund, in any event my duty, post office fee and carriage are toast. Here's a snap of a Z1 plate not fitting:  It's hard to see, but look around the 2 o'clock position - in the right place, but not going past the external band. The difference is really small, about 1mm. The real hassle is that each plate has 12 tab, so 84 tabs to shave a bit off. I'll see what DSS have to say, if 'no' I may try shaving down the tabs on one plate, to see how hard it is.
1215
« on: February 21, 2016, 12:45:22 AM »
I'm confused. It's not a K0 clutch with the clip to hold the end plain plate, and my parts book (K0 - K2) shows a basket with a band round it.
The plates I ordered were listed as equivalent to 22201-300-000, my parts book thinks that's right for K1 and K2.
If I have a later clutch than K2, quite possible, can someone suggest a part number for the friction plate to fit? Any way to tell? I'm loathe to order pattern plates from say CMS, they may very well be from the same source. The only other course is to start grinding ears!
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