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Messages - the-chauffeur
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137
« on: May 09, 2011, 09:57:47 AM »
I take it we've all seen the banner headline that's recently appeared on the DSS site?
I'm guessing that's as result (in one way or another) of the court case . . . not great for them, but it could have been a whole lot worse.
138
« on: March 16, 2011, 10:19:28 PM »
I was surprised how well plastic paint worked on the kill switch of the set I rebuilt. The colour had basically been bleached out of the black knob (it had gone grey/white) so once the switch was apart, I keyed the surfaces up with some high grade wet and dry and then sprayed it with several light coats of plastic paint.
Looking at it now, you'd never know.
139
« on: March 15, 2011, 07:57:40 PM »
Quite possibly the most comprehensive discussion on the subject (maybe) can be found here. You'll see a post or two from me some way toward the bottom of the thread. I had my switches powdercoated with a satin (semi-matt) finish 'cos it matched the originals on the particular model I was working on - but given how good the results were, I'd not hesitate to get others glossed. In fact, I'm taking a whole bunch of bits to get coated in the very near future and since my last visit, my powdercoater can now do both the paint coat (after all, powdercoat is basically paint) and a clear lacquer coat, too. I intend to get my 750 bits done in gloss black with lacquer. You're right though, the lettering is very tricky. Again, see the link for ideas, but gloss enamel and fine art brushes are a good place to start. Hope that helps.
140
« on: March 06, 2011, 12:20:34 AM »
Hmmmm. Not sure about a circlip . . . Does this help?  First thing on the mainshaft is the clutch outer/basket. Then a spacer goes in (the only thing with a splined inner other than the clutch basket/inner), followed by the plates and the inner. Next onto the mainshaft is the thrust washer with 'OUTER' stamped on it, followed by the splined washer (splines on the outside) and that lot is held in with a castellated nut. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong set up, but I can't see a circlip anywhere there . . . You're sure it's a 750 clutch you've got? I ask 'cos a lot of the smaller capacity bikes use circlips in the clutch setup . . . Hope that helps.
141
« on: March 02, 2011, 10:39:50 PM »
K0's and K1's had different cases for the output shaft bearings (not sure on K2) K0's and K1's had the same two bearing sizes but they are grooved on the K0 and ungrooved on K1. Suspect K2's used the K1 arrangement
K2's - well, mine at least - have the same output shaft as the K1's with the single row (ungrooved) bearings and the rudimentary chain oiler system. Having got myself a second bottom end from an F-something or other, I can tell you the shafts are interchangeable so long as you use the double row bearings with the later shafts (although the later ones lose the oiler) - and even though the later bearings are physically wider, they fit just fine in the earlier cases. Incidentally, Hondaman reckons the later shafts/bearings gave away about 1bhp to the earlier ones.
142
« on: February 24, 2011, 09:34:04 PM »
143
« on: February 24, 2011, 07:39:03 PM »
Nah . . . it's not that straightforward.
I've heard/seen plenty of theories on painting engines, and there seem to be very few methods of painting that result in a finish that will withstand fuel drips in the same way as a factory finish. Most of the over-the-counter paints available now are water soluble, which really doesn't help - and although I said the Halfords stuff lifted with vapours, the point I was trying to illustrate was that although it might be splash resistant, but won't stand up to a leaky fuel tap left overnight.
IIRC 2 pack paint over etch primer together with and lacquer will give about the only finish that's likely to be tough enough to stand up to fuel spills. And if you can find someone who'll do it, get them to use an older lacquer that's not water based. Either that, or properly heat treated hot paint (by which I mean cooking it at progressively higher temperatures to cure it over a period of a few days). That said, you may have no choice with the head and barrels 'cos whatever you use will need to withstand up to about 300deg c.
Good luck.
144
« on: February 23, 2011, 10:35:31 PM »
I dunno about the previous answer, but I found Halfords resistant lacquer wasn't when I used it around the neck of a tank . . . I'm pretty sure it was undone by vapours.
Resistant maybe, but proof - nope.
. . . not sure that's what you want to hear, but hope it helps . . .
145
« on: February 19, 2011, 03:28:14 PM »
Hmmm. That is tough. About the only other option I can think of right now is that you try to get hold of a professional restorer - someone like John Wyatt (Rising Sun Restorations). Doesn't have a website, but his contact details are here. If anyone knows where to get one, he will, although I've no idea how/if he responds to requests for assistance. Alternatively, I s'pose you might be able to track down one of the replacement seat manufacturers and ask them if they can get you a cover . . .
146
« on: February 19, 2011, 03:08:52 PM »
Pete
Neutral light switch leak is either the O-ring or the internal sealing plate. The O-ring is a slightly odd size - 18mm x 3mm - which is the same as the one that goes round the oil galley feed tube inside the front of the engine. If you've used a generic o-ring, chances are it's 18mm x 2mm or similar and isn't sealing properly. If it's not that, you'll probably need to look for a replacement switch 'cos they internal plate isn't repairable.
As for riding the bike, see my notes in the oil flow post. Riding the bike around without the removed frame section won't cause you any trouble.
147
« on: February 19, 2011, 02:59:19 PM »
Anyone bought any of Phil Denton's stuff? I was thinking about replacing all of my frame bolts with his stainless stuff right up to the point where I looked at the prices . . .
148
« on: February 19, 2011, 01:28:48 PM »
Yeah - it's been a steep learning curve for me, too. Two steps forward, three/four/five back.
As far as the frame goes, I did a bunch of research and found that removing the section above the engine was a common mod among racers in the '70s. Since I'm not putting the bike under anywhere near that kinda stress, I spent a few months riding round on the bike with that section removed waiting for my kit to arrive and didn't notice anything untoward. Don't rush with the refit - the kit is well worth the wait.
As for callipers, I tried hot paint (may well have been POR15 black spray) which I then cooked in an oven I got at a car boot sale for
149
« on: February 19, 2011, 01:02:11 AM »
Rob That's a tough one to find. Have you tried these folks? They list a K6 pattern on their site and say they have a bunch of other non-listed models. I'm guessing if you can supply the old cover, they can remake one for you. Alternatively, Wemoto offer made to order covers, but as with most places, don't have any examples of specific shapes/sizes. Not much help there.
150
« on: February 19, 2011, 12:43:45 AM »
I don't need to use my imagination to know what you end up with if a cam sprocket bolt lets loose . . .
. . . I found one of mine in the oil pan when I disassembled my K2 engine, together with a handful of metal shavings from where the cam sprocket had been flapping about and cut a chunk out of the rocker cover. Dunno how it happened; I thought I'd done everything up right when I last put the engine back together, but I guess I'd missed something. And no, the damage didn't stop there - something sharp had gotten into the oilway, gone up into the head and scored one of the camshaft end journals and the corresponding rocker tower. Added to that, the oil pump suffered scored internal surfaces. It's not a sight you want to see more than, well, never.
Work since then: completely stripped engine, replaced all bearings (SKF ball bearings), rebuilt the oil pump with additional parts, new pistons, new camshaft and sprocket, new chains and rollers/tensioners together with better cam towers (modified like Hondaman suggests), rebore, new valves, recut valve seats, replaced valve guides and a handful of professional thread repairs in the head - and swapped the final drive for a later K model version (which benefits from a more substantial bearing than the early models). It's been a long few months waiting for bits and engineering work but I'm just about at the point where I'm ready to bolt the cases together again. I'm still not quite there yet (the frame has had a Gordon kit fitted and needs re-powdercoating), but with the help of Hondaman's book I'm hoping I'll have a nearly new engine by the time I've finished. The only thing the engine will lack is paint. After any number of disasters with fuel I've given up with that and for the sake of my sanity am going the ACF50 route.
Back on topic - Pete, you're right; the rocker shaft oiling system that was put into production was pretty crappy. Such a shame Honda didn't drill out all the extra holes in the cam towers at the factory, but I guess that's production economies for you.
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