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Messages - wildtapholer
16
« on: October 25, 2021, 04:03:02 PM »
Nice rear fender you have there - what's with the chain guard - not chromed - is it a fully painted one ?
P.S. I've drilled out my mount and it fits a treat except I have no third collar insert - they seem to be unavailable.
Had to paint it was too far gone, re-chroming is far too expensive and that's if you can find anyone who can be bothered to re-chrome it, had to buy a new tank filler cap for the same reason+ the old one needed a new seal as well, this paint works really well from screw fix
17
« on: October 25, 2021, 03:22:50 PM »
Nice rear fender you have there - what's with the chain guard - not chromed - is it a fully painted one ?
P.S. I've drilled out my mount and it fits a treat except I have no third collar insert - they seem to be unavailable.
Ted, Graham may have a spare insert, I'll ask him later.
Thanks NJ it would stop it crushing the rubber - I don't have any small tubing I can cut down - not even in plastic. Ted
I bought a couple of bags of the grommets and spacers from china, cheap but cheerful, does the job and a I cut them down to length, that's what I used on my number plate carrier if you look closely.
18
« on: October 25, 2021, 11:58:36 AM »
I got an mint rear mudguard and it came with the plastic part which I didn't need all for £68 from America and that was including import duties, it was the correct one with the 4 holes, I had to do a lot of searching but they come up now and again, totally transforms the rear end.
19
« on: October 12, 2021, 02:17:49 PM »
After the carb strip down and lots of problems getting the float levels correct, the petrol I got was regular(or supposed to be) just before we went E5 and E10 route, but I can't help noticing the carb overflow pipes, I keep getting this yellow discharge, from the over flow pipes if I run my fingers over the ends. I haven't took it out for a blast yet after a sympathetic restoration, just a start up in the garage, but it keeps fouling the plugs and running on 2 cylinders, I'm tempted to drain the tank and get some ansel I think it was called, from the lawnmower centre.
20
« on: September 28, 2021, 03:42:49 PM »
Hi Guys,
Just getting down to adjusting the carbs after the engine, strip, inspection, rebuild. I have noticed that 3 carbs, 1,3 and 4 have a black largish air screw that will only rotate 270 degrees before it meets a "stop" on the carb casting. (Picture 1)
Carb 2 has a smaller diameter screw with a spring which looks like a conventional type that will screw all the way in or out over several turns.
(Picture 2)
Have you come across this ?
I was lucky, my carbs had the plastic cover on all my air screws and I asked what they were on the American site before joining this one, just a cover really with a stopper as to not go more than one turn when in place, he actually asked if I would sell them. When I stripped my carbs down I turned the screws all the way in then out 2 turns then placed the caps back on so can turn out one full turn before hitting stopper making 3 turns out if needed being as my manual says 2 turns out.
21
« on: September 14, 2021, 10:59:45 AM »
I usually make up a lead with an eyelet that goes to the screw that holds the bulb carrier inside the light. I usually run extra earths to a lot of the components like that, bad earths are one of the biggest causes of breakdown on these old bikes. Corroded joints to the frame don't pass electricity as well as a direct cable.
[I've done exactly the same when I refitted new front indicators I had a earth problem no matter what I did I couldn't get them to earth properly so ran a wire from inside each front indicator to chassis and problem solved./quote]
22
« on: September 13, 2021, 10:06:08 PM »
I've done the same allen bolts, the screws I took out were a nightmare to remove, just a gentle nip between your fingers of the allen key screw is plenty.
23
« on: September 13, 2021, 10:00:54 PM »
I've bought a lot of stuff from china and never paid any duty on them, grommets and spacers mainly cheap stuff but can be made to fit, the most duty I had to pay was on the brake caliper which if I remember was £20 but even so it was still a lot cheaper than Silvers and Ebay, it all depends really what it is but import duties are not as dear as people think.
24
« on: September 10, 2021, 11:01:26 PM »
I thought the flat red was a bit bland plus because it was a rattle can finish and I had to be careful I didn't spill any petrol on it as the paint was wrinkling around the neck anyway. The header pipes were a bit too far gone so had to coat them with heat resistant paint. I have bought a few bits from America as they are cheaper even with import duties as one example the rear fender was £64 including the plastic part, the brake caliper is brand new as well, from America and came with, new bolts, the caliper, pads, bleed screw everything except back plate, that's enough about mine I don't want to Hi-jack this thread.
25
« on: September 09, 2021, 10:27:47 PM »
This should have been attached as well.
26
« on: September 09, 2021, 10:25:43 PM »
My tank and side panels looked as if they had been done with a rattle can in red and looked naff, I kept it red but metallic, check the difference.
27
« on: September 09, 2021, 02:23:09 PM »
I repainted mine in satin black and managed to find an excellent second hand rear fender from America at a very reasonable price.
28
« on: June 11, 2021, 08:04:18 AM »
Yes it's looking like someone has cut and welded a smaller neck on the collector box, had a proper look at the exhaust and yes it is off a Kawasaki but I'm not sure which model, I've included a pic if anyone can identify it.
29
« on: June 10, 2021, 09:48:48 PM »
You know what, that could explain the silencer, it is not the correct silencer but it fits and looking at it, it could be off a kawasaki.
30
« on: June 10, 2021, 03:10:20 PM »
Looks like I've gotta do a lot of searching for a 38mm internal measure gasket of the right size then, off whatever fits, is anything correct on this bike.
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