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Messages - Oddjob
Pages: 1 ... 10 11 [12] 13 14 ... 287
166
« on: December 29, 2023, 09:10:14 PM »
Oh I dunno Ted, some grease on those bushes can't hurt, plus it lets you really inspect some of the parts. I've seen lifter arms cracking where the pin goes through for example, yes you could most likely spot that without dismantling but checking the quadrant is also flat and not twisted is another.
I've considered drilling 2 small holes above the bushes so I can occasionally drop a little silicon oil down there, just 2 small plugs needed to seal them.
Plus of course the ability to change or replate the rod.
167
« on: December 29, 2023, 08:56:56 PM »
Yeah 4 or 5mm. Not sure which I've got but suspect it's 5mm, I'll have a look.
168
« on: December 29, 2023, 07:37:56 PM »
I took my 400/4 spindle to Philpotts with my fork stanctions and asked how much to hard chrome it........£130😲, I didn't bother!
I've bought a S/S one from Max. He's going to be making them for the 400/4 in the near future.
That's odd, was this after I'd asked him to make them Dave as he asked for an old spindle to copy and AFAIK he's only made the one, which I have. Unless of course he made one especially for you.
169
« on: December 29, 2023, 05:47:52 PM »
I've said this before, don't leave a key in the seat lock, you walk past, catch the key and it either bends or breaks in the lock OR it digs into your leg and ends up cutting you. Either way it's a bugger.
Been there, done that, hence why I keep saying it, lesson learned.
Coming on though.
170
« on: December 29, 2023, 05:43:09 PM »
Got to say I kinda like that. Workmanship is excellent, concept maybe leaves something to be desired but takes all sorts etc.
I keep expecting it to turn into a Transformer though.
171
« on: December 29, 2023, 05:31:08 PM »
TBH Ted I think it was either Gerben that buggered up that bush or someone before him broke it and he didn't see it until he had them. I think whoever did it didn't drill all of it out, then they started to hit the rod sideways not knowing that a bit was left in, that shattered the bush.
The new Stainless Steel rods are £50 each Dom including P&P. That's not exactly cheap but you can't buy a new rod and getting an old one hard chromed costs around £65-85, I had a couple done earlier this year, the first time I had one done they charged around £25-30, then the power crisis hit and the cost went through the roof. I have some of those dog point screws as well, if you buy one I'll throw in one for you.
ATM, I only have one rod that Max made as the test one, I intend to order 3-4 more in a few weeks. However if you want this one I can let you have it so you can get on with the carbs.
172
« on: December 28, 2023, 10:30:37 PM »
Use a dog point screw from Ebay, get them in brass if possible. Fit them into an electric drill, point end outward, spin and use a file to grind the end down until it fits inside the slot in the bar. 4 or 5mm is best.
I'll have some of those bars in stainless in a few weeks Dom. They tend to rust a lot.
173
« on: December 28, 2023, 02:11:45 PM »
Just in case you need it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CCY4CVG2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0CCY4CVG2&pd_rd_w=9zePj&content-id=amzn1.sym.84ea1bf1-65a8-4363-b8f5-f0df58cbb686&pf_rd_p=84ea1bf1-65a8-4363-b8f5-f0df58cbb686&pf_rd_r=1KNMGS6XMQ60E7F1MZQH&pd_rd_wg=vOHsX&pd_rd_r=57ba90f6-b16b-444c-9ec3-fdc62ea49923&s=kitchen&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwThe dark green are the roughest, they'll get rid of most of the marks quite quickly, however they can leave alloy a little rough, keep going up the grades and the marks will go however. DON'T press hard, just a light touch until you get used to them, observe the direction of the bristles, you'll find one side has a dot on it, those go to the underside. 2 on a mandrel works best. These have an additional grade that my usual ones don't have so may be even better. The whites are almost useless for alloy but for softer stuff like brass, gold etc they work just fine and remove very little, more like a fine polish like Solvol Autosol would remove. Great for removing rust, good for decarbonising pistons etc, you'll find so many uses for these you'll wonder how you ever managed before. The only downside to these is that because they are rotary you'll find your face is covered with crap after some time, wear a mask as well, they do and can create dust. Once you get used to them you'll find hundreds of uses, they can even remove old chrome if you're willing to persevere.
174
« on: December 27, 2023, 09:41:29 PM »
Not the dent Johnny more the small stone strike above it, I found the dent knocks through to the back of the plate, if you knock it back the outer surface can then be flatted so the strike mark disappears. The discs are like small flap wheels, of various grades, roughest 80 up to 2000 grit. You have 2 mounted on each mandrel.
175
« on: December 27, 2023, 08:39:25 PM »
Johnny, you got any of those abrasive discs I use and a Dremel, if so the rest will be easy to remove. Where that deep small dent was try knocking that from the back like the dent and that will pop it out so you can flat it right down.
Glad to see my memory wasn't at fault, need a fairly long pin punch but easy if you have one of them.
176
« on: December 27, 2023, 08:36:18 PM »
F1 probably, F2 or K3 no. Looks to be the same as the 500K which did supercede to the 550F1 part number.
178
« on: December 27, 2023, 04:44:36 PM »
Yellow paint was used by Honda on the production line for that very reason Ted, it also showed if the owner tampered with the bolts in case of warranty claims.
179
« on: December 27, 2023, 04:43:16 PM »
I've just bought 3 of those j type push fit clips from DS - damned expensive for what they are.
Bit of an update, make sure the pins on the cover are really clean and burr free, probably a good idea to chamfer the leading edge as when I first tried fitting mine a few pushed on in to the casing which meant I had to push them back through from the other side which resulted in a bit of damage to their barbs. I splayed them carefully with a small screwdriver to cause them to drag on the casing a bit more as well, bit of grease on the chamfered pins and success!
A lot of the time Dom you'll find the pins are ever so slightly bent, so that they don't enter the clips at the right angle, I would advise test fitting the badge into the cover holes without the clips in place, just to check the pins are aligned, it also shows if the badge is distorted as a lot of them are by being prised off rather than knocked off from the rear, dented covers can make the edges lift up ever so slightly due to displacement. The clips can also be removed from the rear by the same method BTW. I would concur on the grease, prevent them rusting at all costs, clips that rust through can cause the badge to come loose, after a run you look down and no more badge. As Bryan says, a new one isn't cheap at all these days. Johnny, if you want to send me the badge I'll try and knock the dent out and blend in the damage, then return it ready for whatever finish you want to apply. Or you can have a go yourself, always worthwhile learning something new. I've got 2-3 badges in various states of restoration at the moment, all of them are far worse than yours I may add. All are showing promise. Even Teds is repairable, it may not look 100% afterwards but if you blend in the damage it's possible for you to not be able to tell it was damaged unless you do a side by side comparison.
180
« on: December 27, 2023, 04:30:50 PM »
Let it drop Ted. Yes I agree with you 100% BUT unless the person being harassed complains and states specific instances I don't think the moderators can do much.
Then there is the who is doing it problem, imagine you're new to the site, you upset another member for whatever reason, they feel they are entitled to be upset, they set out to get their own back, they harass the hell out of you, maybe via PM or maybe by just constantly casting doubt on your posts, whatever method they do it's wrong BUT you're new, they ain't. You feel you wouldn't be listened to because you are new and they aren't, so what do you do? You walk away, cut you're losses, move onto another forum and maybe try again or just say sod it, I'll not put myself out there again to help other people because of the problems that can cause. No one wants aggravation, in this instance it's not a work place or a school where you have to be there, so walk away and the problem goes away. Simple really but wrong on some many levels.
You also have to factor in that the person or persons doing this may feel they are not doing anything wrong, they may not appreciate the damage caused or they may feel vindicated in causing it because they feel they are entitled t do it because of some imagined comments etc. Shame on you won't work in that instance.
Lets leave it to Steve, it may work itself out in the end. And maybe, just maybe, some other members reads this and thinks they'll say something and not suffer in silence.
Sorry for the thread hijack Ozzybud, wasn't intended.
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