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Messages - PatM
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181
« on: August 22, 2010, 10:41:08 AM »
The brake caliper trick was repeated by me yesterday all over the side-panel, frame, seat and less concer- garden fence! Ive never had a concourse 400/4- only ones that need work and now and then when things go wrong the self-doubt steps in- these forums a great for that! My last 400 was probably in about '88- and spares were easier to come by. I know I got most of mine from Paul Smarts of Maidstone- now theres a name from the past! Spare engines were readily available at 50 quid a go from bike breakers.... and Genesis was always on the tape-player in the garage....
Welcome to this Forum!
182
« on: August 22, 2010, 10:34:06 AM »
Right chaps- I stripped and cleaned the caliper- it was clean(ish)- Ive had worse! I removed the seal and cleaned groove out with cotton-bud- washer the whole lot in hot water and fairy- blew it all dry with compressor- Now it is all back together you can see the caliper moving and no drag. But- I fited the old pads- as I think the problem is pitting on the piston causing stiction. I will re-set one the inner pad (which is new) beds in properly- as its only doing about 20% of its work judging by the marking on it. Theres just no way I can think of to bed thse pads in so they give 100% contact of the disc. So, off the the MOT place agin this week. The jobs a whole lot easier when you can legally run the bike on the road and do these tweeks!
183
« on: August 19, 2010, 08:36:39 PM »
Thats my bike! except mines original, apart from the mirrors! Ive dinged my exhaust twice now and still managed to get a replacement- once when it was someone elses fault and the other when I dropped it- BNIB
184
« on: August 19, 2010, 07:22:59 PM »
All
Thanks for the replies and advice-
You are correct in that I have replaced the pads- as the ones fitted were glazed (and the brake was crap..)
Before writing the 'Help'- I put the old 'moving' pad back in and that seemed to solve the problem-ie, the brake didnt drag- so I think a strip and re-build this w/end is in order.
The final advice regarding the mudguard- yes, Ive replaced the mudguard when I refurbished and painted the forks- Ill have a look if I can understand what you are sayong to see if Ive put something back on wrong. The pivot is obviously free- as I said, Ive stripped and re-built.
Ive had 2 400/4s and ive never had good brakes on them!
My 2001 R1 is a bit spongy know , but by golly-stops on a sixpence and my daily hack- a GS1200 Bmw has excellent stopping power- it needs to, as I do 30k a year on it!
Thanks a lot all!
PatM
185
« on: August 18, 2010, 08:29:04 PM »
Gerard- I did respond to yor emails- I probably gave you the wrong No for my bro- (typo, Im known for it..) I cant post pics on this site of his 400/4 - maybe cos im not a full member.. but he brought a nice maroon one and then spent hudreds on it changin wheels, mudguards, tank, side panel- he has owned at least 4 in the past and loves them. Mines simply not good enough for an article.
186
« on: August 18, 2010, 08:24:35 PM »
Hi All!
I went for the MOT today after my rebuild and failed on front brake binding and the throttle cable snagging on full-lock. One is an easy fix- but the brake is a b'strd.
I fitted new pads and yep, it does bind- but as they are running in , I left it. the non moving pad has only just got a kiss on it and the moving- I cant tell (as Ive only done about 10 illegal miles, fettling- without an MOT..)
I have had problems with 400/4 brakes in the past- trying to get a good brake on a 400 is a black-art Ive never mastered- but the only way I can reduce the bind on this is to either loosen the capiper (err, a non, no) or fit the moving old pad.
The brake is still crap, but it might just do...as the rear locks a treat!
any comments/help or jibes, feel free!
Rgds
PatM
187
« on: August 02, 2010, 08:28:04 AM »
Yep, they look a treat and it never ceases to amaze me the effort some folks go to! I paintend my wswitches and master cylinder in May with Humbrol ennamel- was quite happy with the outcome- then bled the brakes and got b/fluid on it- despite my care...:-( Oh well, at least it was cheap!
188
« on: August 02, 2010, 08:22:34 AM »
My Bros got a mint 400/4 in Swanley , Kent? Ive got a not-so-mint, but recently re-assembled one in Maidstone- if its of any help?
189
« on: August 02, 2010, 08:19:12 AM »
Thank G! - I thought it was me! need you chaps as its a shrinking community!
190
« on: July 26, 2010, 11:33:19 AM »
Now Ive got my 400 back together Ill be off for the MOT shortly, once Ive taken it for a few crafty runs and sorted out any obvious problems. One thing occured to me- do I need to put Redex additive in (the one with the lead)?
191
« on: June 27, 2010, 03:04:43 PM »
Hi and welcome.
I can
192
« on: June 25, 2010, 01:49:03 PM »
Yes Colin, ignition switch to on. Just rotate the crankshaft slowly with a good fir socket and you will see the light come on and off- it lights when the points OPEN. You use the light comming on as the referenece point.
193
« on: June 25, 2010, 11:56:02 AM »
What a brilliant idea- the transistor radio! I used to be a radio Ham and I never thought of that! Any old amp or radio should do as they pick up the stray RF from the capacitor!- The basis of morse code! One of my 400/f's had electronic ignition when I brought it- I immediatley replaced with points- fiddly to get right- but will always get you home- Transistorised ignition will work a treat- rarely go out- but when it fails-which is does- as the capacitors blow and take out the power transistors- thats it- a long push home!
194
« on: June 24, 2010, 09:07:16 PM »
I havent done it in this incarnation, ie for about 20 years- but multimeter or light and stobe light to check each set. The marks on the plate are the starting poinbt and make sure all the insulators are in place on the points otherwise you will earth the live lead and get no sparks at the plugs! Probaly bets to change one set at a time- start the bike, on one new set/one old set- then you know it works. I it doesnt, play with the one new one till you get it right. Photos help! Good luck. (I take it you have a Haynes manual?)
195
« on: June 14, 2010, 08:59:15 AM »
Thanks- That might have been what I meant.. I have a picture of a 400 with its tank off and I was trying to magnify it to see where the horn went etc- thats when I saw the error on the photo- hes not coil on the RHS feeding 3 and 4. There is another bracket that I think supports the bunch of wires- although a cable-tie is better!
But I have the chrome clip on wrong and the tacho cables not in it- the throttle cables are- Doh! The Haynes manual's not much good for .
reassembly!
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