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Messages - SeanFD
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211
« on: June 19, 2020, 07:51:32 PM »
It's SIMVHT31D that is available now which is the superceded number of SIMVHT31C which is not available.
SIMVHT31D is what we use on all Honda CB SOHC /4 Engines.
Thanks Julie. I found some today at what I thought was a good price (£6.99). Then checking on EBay, I see there are two types of enamel Aluminium: one is simply aluminium while the other is aluminium silver. I can’t check until tomorrow which one I actually got, but I think it is just plain aluminium. Is that the one you use? Thanks to COVID, I’m living alone at present, so I can sneak parts past myself into the oven and can avoid the need for a special construction  The guy who is doing my powder coating has offered to blast the cases. Is this the best way to go? After blasting, do I need to prime the cases before painting? I think I read not.
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« on: June 19, 2020, 10:58:09 AM »
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« on: June 19, 2020, 10:50:28 AM »
These might help you:
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« on: June 03, 2020, 12:53:40 PM »
BTW
Sean, thanks for the excellent Belfast to Belfast blog it's a fascinating read.
Glad you enjoyed it - and that someone actually read it 
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« on: June 03, 2020, 09:24:10 AM »
Now to solve the next problem: it turns out that finding .45 bullet casings for this repair is not as simple in the UK as it is in the US.
Just in case it helps, a .375 rifle cartridge will also work. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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« on: June 01, 2020, 10:34:28 AM »
This interested me as I will, hopefully, soon be putting my engine back in the frame, so I looked up the parts list I have.
This shows the same bolt on both sides; unfortunately it doesn’t give a length though, so it’s good to know what it should be.
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« on: June 01, 2020, 10:23:33 AM »
Hey Andy, don’t give up!
I went through a similar process; bought a bike, thought I’d just get it running and then worry about what would come next. My first description was “It’s rusty!”. Then I started the resurrection and very quickly she was christened “Rusty” after I discovered the full extent of the rust on the chrome.
After a bit more work and dismantling, I realised that whatever else the resurrection was, it wasn’t going to be quick. I convinced myself I’d not be happy with it if I just ploughed on, so I took a step back, took a deep breath and .... now the engine is out, the frame is stripped and well, we’ll see. I know it’ll be worth it in the end; leave it for a bit, work on the others and when you come back to it, I’m sure you will agree with me.
On the carbs: I recently rebuilt a 750K2 and had some difficulties getting the carbs right. I finally got it, I thought, and set out on a bit of a trip from Harare, Zimbabwe via Belfast, RSA to Belfast, N Irl. On my second day out the carbs started overflowing and nothing I could do would stop it. So I holed up for the night and took them apart, put them back together and all worked fine. The reason for the overflow?
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Well it was the only thing I found wrong, so the poor was got the blame. Hang in there!
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« on: May 05, 2020, 01:52:34 PM »
Has no-one any ideas on how to stop flash rusting on what’s left of the chrome on my mud and chain guards?
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« on: May 03, 2020, 02:51:55 PM »
Hondaman on the US site has worked out that modern gaskets are thicker so you need thicker cross section O rings to seal properly. Bryanj - the copperised ones are the ones I was thinking of. I'll check out Hondaman too. Did you ask Mark? Did you get a reply you can share with us? There is a thread on the same site that might be worth looking at - it's "Branden's leak free top end thread" http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,107040.0.html
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« on: May 03, 2020, 02:18:02 PM »
I hear what you say. Does anyone have any experience of these from Legend Motorcycles? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB400f-Brand-New-Pair-Of-Fork-Tubes-1975-1977-Stanchions-400-4-400-four/113669408153?hash=item1a77398599:g:ZG8AAOSw18BceVFOAnother question. The mudguards – apart from the holes in the rear – and the chain guard clean up to an acceptable, for now, level. I’ve got most of the surface rust off using vinegar and a scotch pad. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] If I could stop the flash rust turning them brown within 30 mins, I’d be content to use them. A coat of WD40 works to a point, but would obviously wash off. Anyone know of anything a bit more permanent? Incidentally, I contacted IKON Suspension in USA – I got a great service from them when replacing my 750 suspension – and Nils there told me that spares for the 76 series Konis, predecessor to the 1076, are not available. So it seems I need new shocks; the bump stop disintegrated completely when I was dismantling it.  [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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« on: May 01, 2020, 02:15:44 PM »
So I was doing a bit on the bike yesterday and some parts are not as bad as they looked - that’s not to say they’re good, but ... Anyway, I decided that since funds are limited, were possible I will make do with existing parts, cleaned as best I can, and repaired where necessary and possible. New parts are expensive and there’s little point in buying used ones that may or may not be any better than the ones I have. Only safety or legal reasons and good maintenance practice will “permit” new - so I will be using new oil The fork legs are not as bad as they looked. The rust and pitting is mostly above the area of travel; I will try to smooth the lower area and see how it goes, worst that can happen is that the seals leak and I have to replace legs and seals later. Both legs have an area of wear just above the dust cover [ Guests cannot view attachments ] I think this is due to an abrasive paste of dirt and oil collecting under the cover and Grinding away at the chrome? The rear mudguard is a bit more problematic. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] The bits that remain are solid  -ish, so I’m going to apply my limited body-work skills and try to patch the holes; most of them are under the seat and out of sight anyway. I’ve bought the replacement cases, but for now I’m going to go with things as they are. If cam chain is a problem then, I’ll use them sooner rather than later. So, hopefully, by the end of the month I will have a running, if somewhat tatty, little bike to enjoy while I sort out her big brother.
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« on: April 29, 2020, 01:25:46 PM »
I would start with float needle and seat and then put all floats in a bowl of water and make sure firstly they all float and secondly they all float at the same level.
Also try holding them under the water - like looking for a puncture - in case the hole/crack is at the top. When you take them out give them a shake and listen for fluid inside.
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« on: April 29, 2020, 01:21:14 PM »
Thanks Ash! I know so many parts are interchangeable, just a question of what fits and how to find the part numbers. I have purchased from DS before - they provide a great service, but their prices and shipping are both very expensive. I might just take care of this particular problem "in house..." There's a way to find out what fits what on the CMS website https://www.cmsnl.com/. When you click on a part, scroll down to the bottom of the page and there's a list of bikes that the part fits.You have to register and login to get the full list; otherwise only the first 10 or so are shown. Their parts are sometimes cheaper than DSS, but then postage to the US would probably more than make up the difference. It's funny how the smaller the part, the bigger the price, isn't it?
225
« on: April 29, 2020, 12:47:11 PM »
Wow... the Cerakote looks really good.. In Australia it would probably be too expensive a process to use on a frame.. the hubs etc all came out really good and will benefit from the Cerakote.
Were the pics the right way up down there? On my screen they were upside-down!
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