Honda-SOHC

Not sure what specifically did it but I spent some time on the throttle cable adjustments for opening & closing plus altered the angle of the point where the cable unions  connect to the throttle body so that the curves on the cables followed the line better. I did look in Ash's Dropbox but could not find anything that helped me. (probably looked in the wrong places)

ATM the cable routes go from the the throttle, loop down between the forks then follow the frame above the round tank mount (can easily be moved to below the mount above the coils). Photos to follow as I'm going out for lunch & my phone connection is on my PC not the laptop I'm using.

Interesting read, I look forward to reading your progress.

TBH I did not expect it to have 3 disc brakes at that age.
Shame it's way too heavy for me as I could be tempted otherwise.

No lube on Honda cables Ted, ruins the sleeving and coating.
Routing is very important, should be something on Ashs dropbox, pdi i think that shows route

Thanks I will take a look.

That is a very nice looking project Matt - not a box of bits for a change.

No fuse holder Ted?

Missing the black plastic cover off the kickstart lever. Keeps the crap out of the knuckle joint. Seem to recall someone making them and selling them on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143595737695?hash=item216ef9125f:g:ZOQAAOSw3axerz5U&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwLuy3C3OQhU4zlKnwPJLWjEOmwDTqoW1C5kHiSHqlK85R9s%2F5Q6TMEOfXlqcNbqJJsd7ra2JWQx4GyVXOhS5%2Bk9W3%2FFJOy419uId7Ul%2BEjAusA%2FC%2Fm78u6CDjZqKs0nfY954LwyCiRg%2FQPaQHRBhuXuzTdscUV%2F2BO%2Bz7AgJmZutQsZX0n%2Fsx8aMgGi89k7gTVzQpkPuST7waq%2BRreNqsCqPFaEnmpbNpI%2B6a5d82EqUPIJ%2BYpjj09AlH8SdA2UUcg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Dw4ZLsYg

Be careful using domed nuts on the intake manifolds, I've found that unless they are really deep ones there is a chance the nut bottoms out on the bolt, you think it's tightened up so you stop, then you find it isn't tight and it's allowing air to be pulled in past the oring.

Something like these are better. I use those on the exhaust studs as well, keeps the thread from rusting and you struggling to remove them afterwards.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295955048209?hash=item44e84ba711:g:XTMAAOSwZ5llFtdk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0Cteh8SGnUw1Cx5gGQNUNWk%2Fejj9ygmWcb8sM%2BhHl0q6dxR6LxnzIdhQmbm51gnqCo1%2FHHZ0GzUsS04C%2B8dIhZ34JXoy4Q9ylIvKkGC2s69LhsmX4ZDDMCUZcyX5jKJMOUVTnMRGxF3m%2B9uKL3JLDnxsAVdhxZib3GaqcA6JIHbbib1Mod1rT%2BmUFDXckfd%2FUIlBrXbmdQlVJkX7D9r2p2GmTHHvC0xL1cIpssi6T%2B8tRrmIi8YMZferhjonCygZpot%2FOBVxUJ8Yrv6p5Zio5j8%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qKx5LsYg

Not supposed to be a grommet on the tooltray Ted although I suspect you know that. It doesn't rattle in use so it's not really needed TBH.

The HT cap shown is wrong for that location, that's for 2 & 3 cylinders, the outer ones use a long right angled one.

Coming on, starting to look the part. I suspect the breather cover is off a 550 BTW, the vent pipe outlet comes out on the other side to the 500 one IIRC.

Pay attention to the way the bolt fits for the rear brake lever adjusting bolt, can't remember offhand which way it fits, bolt head down or up but it's one you can't change over without removing stuff so it's better to get it right before fitting the brake lever. The workshop manual shows it bolt head up but there is a pic in there I'm convinced shows it bolt head down. I'd fit it bolt head up myself.

NOT criticisms, just comments you may or may not find useful.

Thanks for the feedback Ken it is very helpful.

I expected some comments on my excessive use of copper washers on the cam cover.
My temporary fuse holder was on the live side - now removed - what fuse holder do you mean?
The domed manifold nuts were fitted by Bryan and are a tall domed type.
Plug caps - my bad just wanted the overlong wires out of the way.
I fitted the grommet to hold down the front of the tray as it tends to stand up on the left side with no seat in place.
I'll see if one of my rubber blanking grommets fits the kick start - I might even have one from a 400 lever I had.

Sorry in advance Ash for the SS Hex Head side cover bolts - fitted by PO.

Thanks Ken I have done that ended up taking off the right hand upper engine mounting bracket so I could do a better job of the earth contact.
Air box manifold went in a treat - just need to finalise the air filter box mounting as it looks as though there ought to be some spacer inserts looking at the parts manual. Looks as though there were some modifications.
Mine is held in place by two bolts at the front & one at the rear top.

Thought I would bob the carbs onto the engine - not difficult - nicely in place nipped up the circlips.
Thought I might as well pop the 4 into 1 air chamber box onto the carb intakes.
It will not fit from the carb side of the frame so tried popping it down from the top in the middle of the frame with the battery & battery box removed but it is stll too big to fit past the right side of the frame.
I have the four rubbers fitted to the plastic air chamber box - I can get the rubber onto number 1 carb but the other end will not get past the frame!


Do I need to remove the right hand upper engine mounting bracket to get the end of the air chamber box past the frame or is there some other rubics cube route that I am missing?

I have removed the carbs again just in case!!