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Messages - Waggles
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241
« on: May 28, 2012, 10:34:45 AM »
Think it was me that posted that old article. As I said at the time I can't remember where I found it and it could easily be quite old. Automatic replacement was probably good advice when parts were cheaper! I think its best to take it as a warning of a possible weak spot and check carefully as Seamus says.
242
« on: May 28, 2012, 09:43:12 AM »
My F1 was a low mileage barn find. I was loathe to take the motor out and strip it because of the mileage and I knew the general reliability of the motor. I took off sump and cleaned it and oil strainer, stripped clutch to 'unstick' it and check for rust ( there was none ) I replaced all service items and coils but as far as the motor goes all I did was pump some 20 - 50 oil for 'old motors' I got from Halfords around it ( plugs out and whizz on starter until oil light goes out for a bit ) and left that in there while I dealt with brakes etc. Reason for this was it has a 'seal swell' additive I thought would be a good idea, I also put a little redex down the plug holes. Changed the oil for 'proper' 10 - 40 before starting. Apart from a rather large cloud of smoke as she coughed 25 years of crud from her innards she now runs beautifully ( 'so far' he says touching wood etc ) I intend to change oil pretty frequently to begin with and keep an eye on the sump for rust but apart from that I will just ride and service as normal.
243
« on: May 28, 2012, 09:16:37 AM »
Something I doscovered during my F1 build was that despite the fact that there are 4 bolts holding the clutch plates 'together' you cannot fit the clutch inner and outer together in anyway you like, get it wrong, like I did, and the splines don't engage properly at the back and the clutch will not disengage. Try slackening it off and reassembling again with the basket 90 degrees out to the way you have it now, it might improve things
244
« on: May 28, 2012, 09:05:22 AM »
Could be the release bearing which isn't an engine out job.
245
« on: May 11, 2012, 07:45:18 AM »
Buggered if I was offered a discounted K6 at the time!! All told though think I will stick with the F1, it was the right choice for me then and now. Have to say I personally think the K7 is a looker though, love those pipes!
246
« on: May 10, 2012, 11:01:21 AM »
You learn something new every day! I thought the K7 had the F2 motor too, guess I was misled by the carbs. Not seen many around then or now so I guess the F2 was more popular due to the higher power?
247
« on: May 09, 2012, 11:54:52 AM »
Come to that was the K7 ever sold in the UK? I seem to recall when I went to my local Honda dealer in 1976 to get a 750 the only choice I had was which colour F1 I wanted, I recall the F1 giving way to the F2 but don't seem to recall any F7s. So did it go K6, F1, F2 only in UK?
248
« on: May 04, 2012, 09:12:17 AM »
Showing my age I know, but I have always preferred copper head gaskets. Maybe out of the question now with the price of copper as it is but was just idly wondering if anyone has tried making one? or is there a reason for not doing so?
Appreciate you may still need sealing rings for the oil ways but copper can be used more than once after annealing etc and I have always hated fibre ones and thought they were a cost saving item.
I remember my old four valve Trudge blah blah blah ...........
249
« on: April 17, 2012, 10:44:45 AM »
Guess it might depend on how much work you are prepared to do. I notice Robbo has fitted a 400/4 tank according to his recent post.
250
« on: April 17, 2012, 10:40:13 AM »
Was just idly searching through some old files and came across the attached, no idea where I got it, I just post here for the advice regarding valves. I have no experience of F2s, hopefully someone who has will add their comments on this, just thought it might be useful. In case you can't read it clearly it says:
"Stamped steel retainers are used on all models. On F2 models with their heavier springs retainers often fail. Also keepers seem to 'work' against the valve stems leading to valve failures. In either case severe engine damage can occur. Replace retainers (or complete spring set) and valves when you have any F2 apart"
Comments anyone?
251
« on: April 17, 2012, 07:42:39 AM »
My exhaust change idea was merely to hint at whether the valve guides were the problem before the motor comes out.
Check guides etc and if in any way suspect replace. I would recommend you get Hondamans book, expensive but that kinda knowledge built up over the years is priceless. There is a lot of stuff in there on improving top end oiling etc.
As for other stuff, depends on the mileage of the motor and how far you are stripping it really.
252
« on: April 12, 2012, 08:25:59 AM »
If this is an F2 aren't they known for sometimes higher than normal wear on exhaust valve guides? could this be the cause bearing in mind the mention in an earlier post of a smoky exhaust? If that much oil is getting through it would have thought you might be able to check it by removing exhaust and plugs and wizzing it over on the starter perhaps. Alternatively I would have expected valve guide oil to all be burnt, perhaps refitting the exhaust with new copper gaskets to ensure a good seal would give an idea, if the leak stops but the zorst gets smokier that could be your culprit.
253
« on: April 12, 2012, 08:17:04 AM »
Never seen that before! looks like a fault in the guide though doesn't it, It looks like it has become brittle somehow. If that was the new guide ( which I assume it is ) did you cool it before fitting? Have had some success in the past freezing the guides before fitting, could then almost push them in to the heated head by hand. Rather suspect even that technique would have caused this one to fail though, from thermal shock if nothing else!
254
« on: April 11, 2012, 08:01:55 AM »
Couldn't see from your list of work done whether you have done any engine work? my guess would be its an oil way leaking, would suggest you check asap and before any more ...er ..... high speed rides, if it is an oil way the cam could become oil starved and ........ well y'know. seriously hope I am wrong as it could mean the head having to come off = engine out, but better safe than sorry. To be fair though cam problems are usually caused by oil way blockage rather than leaking, but leaks must reduce oil pressure if they are bad enough.
Another possibility would be the cam cover gasket ot tappet cover seal, that should be easy to see though. Just how bad is leak?
255
« on: April 10, 2012, 07:50:36 AM »
Woo hoo! Well done.
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