Honda-SOHC

Hi,

I tried without the airfilter and checked the plug colours, the airfilter made little if any differance and the plugs looked good but that was some time ago and I've replaced the ignition system since. Also tried pulling the choke on when it bogged, but the choke doesn't stay on when the revs are up and in that rev range power delivary is a too bit unpredictable and rough for 1 handed riding.

I don't recall the compression readings and i can't find my notes but they were all within 5%.

I've twice found that number 4 didn't heat up imediately, but I then made a point of checking on most startups and it hasn't done it since.

The fuel flow seemed good when I let it flow into a can.

I don't normaly aim to drain a tank or have a cleaning schedule, but I have drained and rinsed out this tank.

I'm a little put off by 'serious TLC', but float bowls aren't a problem as I can rob them off the set I'm using.

Mines a 79 reg K. The carbs look almost spotless inside and out but I've replaced all of the ignition and the fault persists so I might as well try different carbs.

Send pics and a price to allan_totty@hotmail.com

Cheers

Allan

I doubt if the needles are your problem but I guess its worth a look anyway. Take off the tank, Take the tops of the carbs off, Undo the philips screw that secures the lifting arm to the rotating shaft.
Get a thin philips screwdriver down inside the slide and disconnect it from its arm. Disconnect the arm being carefull not to lose screws or the little spring and pull the slide out, its easy. If you cant get to the screws gently twist the slide and its arm till it comes off, yourll see what I mean, then pull the whole thing out and then undo the screws inside the slide. Jap screws are made of chocolate so be carefull if there a bit tight. You can do this with the carbs in place.

Cheers, I'll give it a shot later in the week.
I doubt it as well but I'm getting desparate, I can't see anything wrong with the floats or lower jets and replacing the ignition system didn't really make any difference.
The significant improvement in hotter weather makes me side with it being a fueling issue.

Hi,

The problem existed prior to fitting the electronic ignition.
The coils were replaced as part of the electronic ignition kit, plugs are new NGK irridiums, also tried normal NGK plugs and the caps are new NGK 5k.
Float heights are correct and loads of carb cleaner has been blasted through every orifice twice.
I've used the spray something flammable in the area vacuum leak test 3 or 4 times without any signs of leakage so I think those seals are ok, but if I have to resort to removing the carbs again I'll replace then just to be sure.

I've noticed that it's allot worse when the weather is cold so I'm working on the theory that it's running lean, I'm going to see what effect raising the needles one notch has.
If that fails I'll relay the ignition so I'll keep the ignition and kill switch control but without running the current through them.

Some types of resins wont bond to each other so I'd attempt an external repair, easier to remove if it goes wrong.

I'm more concerned about grip levels than originality, but I'm not a really sporty rider.
It's currently got new looking unknown brand tyres fitted by the previous owner. The rear seems alright but I don't have much faith in the front, the bike also tries to follow any join or paint lines.

Whatever pads are fitted aren't great, or maybe I'm expecting too much from the brakes - they require a fair bit of pressure on the leaver and fade quite easily, also squeal when hot.


Cheers

Allan

If you need to have them made try Bill Brighton (07951-066627) you'll have to provide full details though as he isn't a SOHC specialist, he's into Scimitars.