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Messages - Eldrick
31
« on: February 02, 2023, 07:06:56 PM »
Some dicey looking wiring there! But a work in progress of course!
I am tempted by a new loom... 
32
« on: February 02, 2023, 04:01:01 PM »
Last year I replaced the Left hand Ignition coil and that was easy. This year, I am replacing the Right Hand one (as you sit on the bike). I have a problem, the only coil I could find was ‘aftermarket’ and designed for fitting on either left or right side. This Coil does not look like either of my coils but it is described as for the CB400f.
Specifically, the issue I have is the wiring, the new coil has a Positive and a Negative terminal on it and it comes with a cable that has one Yellow and one Black wire. My right hand coil connects a Black&Yellow wire to Black and a Blue wire to Blue. The black one must be missing the normal connector as it has been soldered onto the Black&Yellow one.
I need to know which terminal (on the coil) to connect the nice new Black and the new Yellow wires to and then where to connect them vis-a-vis the Black wire and the Blue wire. As ever, pictures are more helpful, please see below.
New Coil
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Old and New Wires
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33
« on: October 02, 2022, 12:14:43 PM »
Should I splice my #3HT Lead with this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/NGK-J-1-Racing-Cable-Splicer/dp/B0018JXIXIFollowing on from my carb rebalance I found #3 cylinder was not firing. All other are ok and by process of elimination I could get #3 to fire, proving my coils are both ok. I removed the coil and shortened the lead, #3 now gets hot on the downpipe but still not as hot as the others so I suspect the HT lead could be an issue. I don't want to replace the coil just yet since it is not broke but the HT cables are sealed units, so would a splice be a good option? Also, this is the left coil, same side as clutch lever, is that meant to fire #2 and #3?
34
« on: September 23, 2022, 02:04:29 PM »
You mention that when you put No. 4 lead onto No. 3 plug the exhaust then got hot. Is there a chance that it was incorrectly fitted in the first place? Have fun, it's a great hobby for keeping the old grey matter active. Mike.
I don't think so, since the spark is is 'a redundant spark' I expected it to 'work' at the other end of the stroke to at least prove the fuel is getting through. So I think the leads aare all in the correct order. I just swapped them as a logical elimination step. I will take the tank off again, tomorrow, and follow the leads to make sure they are #1and#4 and #2and#3.. If they aare not, then it needs new cables as they are not reaching anywhere else. PS, I am having a good time doing this and learning.
35
« on: September 23, 2022, 12:14:04 PM »
Once you have eliminated the Sparking you may have to look at fueling. If valve clearances are good then I would check the float level for the cooler cylinder.
I don't think I have eliminated the spark, I think #3 is sparking sporadically. Putting #4 HT lead on #3 made it spark (the down pipe was hot) properly. That does not meaan the coil is bad tho because #2 fires normally. I don't know enough about the wiring to #2 and #3 to safley say the coil is good or bad, I just think that the HT lead from the coil to #3 is at fault. I suppose I could see if #3 lead will reach to #2 and see if it sparks there. if not, then I would be more certain that the lead or plug cap is at fault.
36
« on: September 23, 2022, 10:34:51 AM »
Are all the exhaust headers the same temperature, ie, equally bloody hot when you've been riding?
No is the answer to that, 1, 2 and 4 are too hot to handle and 3 is hot but not nearly as hot as the others. So, can't rule out spark plugs just because they are new, so I will swap plugs from 3 and 4 around and see what I get. Failing that as the problem is it 'just' going to be the HT lead or plug caps? I did re-set the gap on and clean the plugs when I took the carbs off. All plugs were a bit too dark but I expect that to change when I balance the carbs. I guess it could be timing or valve clearance on #3 since I am quite sure the throttle slide does move freely as checked the play on them all when the carbs were off. All fore rise and fall when I engage the throttle manually and all the butterflies open and close too. *************** update *************** I just checked the plugs, #3 is still shiny and swapping it with #1 (which is black) made no difference. I then took the HT lead from #4 and connected that to #3, (no other leads are long enough to swap about) and #3 pipe got proper hot like it should. I guess I need to do something with one or all of my HT leads then, but what?
37
« on: September 21, 2022, 08:39:18 PM »
One persons running well isn't always an accurate description unless you know exactly how it should feel.
Ted ran his 400 on 2 cylinders and even though he said it seemed to lack power he didn't spot it was only running on 2. Sorry Ted for bringing that back up but it's a good example.
True, I thought it was running great and sounding great, the vacuum gauge told me otherwise. I would have happily run the bike forever in ignorance otherwise. Now, I'm on a mission to fix it and expand my knowledge.
38
« on: September 21, 2022, 03:58:02 PM »
Are all the exhaust headers the same temperature, ie, equally bloody hot when you've been riding?
I will check the next time Thanks
39
« on: September 21, 2022, 03:17:27 PM »
Ran the bike today and it all seems great, put the vacuum gauge on the carbs when I got home and I get this;
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#3 does show 10-15cmHg when I blip the throttle but otherwise, adjusting that slide just increases or decreases all the others by variable amounts.
Plugs are new, air flow upto the carbs is sealed so it could be a leak on the other side (the boots?). I did swap the vacuum tubes over to make sure that #3 tube and the carb tune wasn’t faulty. If it wasn’t for the vacuum gauge I just wouldn’t have known anything was wrong as the running response and idle seemed good. Well to my untrained mechanical brain anyway.
40
« on: September 20, 2022, 09:54:20 PM »
"Jam a drill bit in there" is not what you do, you use the parallel shank part of a small drill bit as a feeler gauge
Understood, it was total sarcasm to follow from the previous statement I made in the same post, honest.
41
« on: September 20, 2022, 09:51:59 PM »
Unsure if I've got the understanding of that correct.
The twistgrip must have some degree of slack when setup properly, this to avoid the throttle being pulled when you turn the steering left & right. Too tight and the throttle will open as you go from centre to full turn, also it'll likely pull the nipple off the end of the cable without a certain amount of space to operate.
These are specified in the manual.
I do have some slack whereas before I had lots, as in very poor responce. A short run up and down the street tomorrow will let me know if it is not enough slack but it is certainly going to be better than the play I had before.
42
« on: September 20, 2022, 04:38:58 PM »
OK, I was wrong about the slides being back to front, what I have is a lack of knowledge as to what I am viewing and perhaps damaged slides. I thought the gap everyone mentions was that little 'cut away' in my photo. Turns out that is just damage, all four slides have it so that led me to the wrong conclusion. That side is certainly the flat side. I suspect some clown has been jamming a drill bit in there...  I took the slides out or two bodies and behold, I saw the crescent moon, so, now I have filled gaps in my knowledge and I know my slides are correct. I did have trouble getting one to the base of the barrel so I just loosened everything. Discovered that the 'smiley face' butterfly things are all linked so I set them to look the same when closed. Also found I could 'tighten my throttle cable' so to speak, using the nuts on the top near the throttle cable attachments. My throttle now does not have 20degrees of slack before it responds. I was able to rotate and lock the mechanism on the carbs using those nuts. I adjusted the throttle stop too, so it stops when the slides are 1mm from the top of the barrel, the manual told me to do that. Pretty sure that part allowed me to get a slide to the bottom and ‘jam a drill bit in there’ after turning the tick over screw to raise it. I put it all back together and started it up, have not took it for a run yet but I could get the bike to sit at 1200rpm. I will run it tomorrow and see if I can keep 1200rpm when the engine is at running temp, if not, when the engine is warm I will use the vacuum tune on it and see what I can get. In the meantime, thanks for all the help.
43
« on: September 20, 2022, 11:06:09 AM »
Well, they are back to front so looks like I willl be learning a new task today, removing and replacing slides.
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44
« on: September 19, 2022, 06:20:19 PM »
I would be surprised if the sliders are wrongly fitted as this would also cause problems on the top levered plungers unless they have been removed & put on back to front as well.
It will be interesting to see what you find.
I will photo-document it and if it proves to be 'an out of body experience' I will post the photos.If it is not the case, I may well get the idle and fast idle set knowing that it is me that needed expierience.
45
« on: September 19, 2022, 04:32:43 PM »
Is the emulsion tube where the needle jet fits and slides up and down fitted the right way up ? It should protrude into the Venturi a small way,looking like a small ‘cup’ if fitted upside down it will not be seen.
I will find out tomorrow when I take the carbs off the bike and I will have 4 boxes set aside for each individual carb should I deem it necessary to swap those slides.
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