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Messages - fisjon
31
« on: November 24, 2013, 07:48:35 PM »
Just to be sure, remove the starter, get it into neutral and try turning the engine by using a socket on the left side of the engine (generator side)
Don't force too much just in case, if the cam chain is still ok the engine should turn and the fault could be with the starter mech.
32
« on: November 24, 2013, 07:42:54 PM »
If there is very little momement in either direction I would suspect that the cam chain has dropped and is jammed in the casings. A strip and rebuild required.
33
« on: November 24, 2013, 07:37:49 PM »
Hi Hondaking,
I purchased one of those zinc kits of ebay about two years ago when I was restoring my CB650Z.
You need alot of patience and determination if you want to get good results. Everything has to be spotlessly clean before it goes into the zinc bath. You will need to replace the chemicals and the acid after a certain amount of use to maintain the quality of the zinc plate finish and you will have to replace the zinc anodes as well as they just dissapear into the bath (onto the metal).
If you put in a nice smooth peice of metal you will get really good results, so it depends on the condition of the metal. Any metal that has rusted, even though it may even be sand blasted will have pitting and will not look good. Some metal, (alloys) will not take a coating of zinc.
I reclaimed a lot of parts when restoring my CB but there were some parts that were just not good enough to put on the bike even after zincing. For the cost of the unit I could have replaced a lot of metal parts NOS.
Best way to describe it is a love hate relationship. You need a lot of determiation for it to work out.
Would I buy another kit, in a word, NO.
Hope this helps.
34
« on: September 29, 2013, 07:41:41 PM »
I used to find that my CB750 K1 was a bugger to time up.
The only way I could get the ignition timing spot on was to set different points gap !
I even bought several point sets but to no avail, they always had to be set different.
I found out later that the gap is not as important as the dwell and if you did not get the timing right the pipes would go blue very quick.
I have a dwell meter and a strobe with a power source and after setting/checking the gap I alter it to get the correct dwell then adjust the timing regardless of the gap. If the dwell is correct you will always get a fatter spark.
Dwell more important than gap! But if you fit Boyer electronic you would think you were riding a more powerful bike.
35
« on: August 16, 2013, 11:22:23 PM »
Brake fluid sucks in air, that's why you shouldn't leave the cap off for any length of time. If there is air in the system and you compress the system the air will ingress into the fluid instead of rising to the top causing the fluid to flex before pushing the piston.
if you can't bleed the air out it is best to let it rise to the top of the system and filter it out by wiggling the lever gently. You will be surprised how effective this method is.
It was the only way I could get the air out of my VF750FD clutch.
36
« on: August 15, 2013, 07:10:24 PM »
If your carbs were ultrasonically cleaned as one unit it is possible that the fuel connector seals may be perished. Rubber or plastic placed into an ultrasonic cleaner can degrade very quickly. If they were original fit then they wouldn't take long to disintegrate. Also the core plugs can dislodge and/or fall out completely if the fluid was being used at the 60-80 degrees recommended by the cleaning fluid manufacturer. I have found a few in my bath and have resealed them back into the carbs with resin. Another thing I have found is two lots of rubber seals in the air screws and sometimes no flat washer to go between the spring and air screw seal.
If the engine slows down gently before conking out then it may be fuel flow, but this would be apparent at higher speeds so if your bike runs good except for tickover and conks much without warning then it is probably electrical. As the engine slows down the electrical output is marginally reduced and there may be a gremlin due to a faulty regulator or a bad earth somewhere on the bike that is affecting the spark train. All it takes is for a momentary loss of spark and the motor will hunt and stall.
I fitted my CB650Z with a Boyer unit, totally ripping out the Honda stuff and the bike absolutely refused to stall. The spark was like an arc welder! I used a plug on the side of the engine to test it when I first fitted it and I have never seen a spark so bright. It also make a cracking sound and frightened the s**t out of me.
Food for thought
37
« on: August 15, 2013, 05:23:21 PM »
Hi guys,
If you want to send me your carbs I will ultrasonically clean them and zinc plate all the levers and fixings for £40.
This will include a complete strip and each carbs will receive individual attention. (Putting the carbs in an ultrasonic cleaner as a unit of four will knacker the fuel seals. They will dry out and may disintegrate after some use.)
I will replace nuts, washers and any fuel seals that have passed their sell by date.
You will be responsible for postage and for the cost of any parts required to rebuild.
I will keep you up to date via email as and when including photos of work progress.
Send me a pm for more information.
cheers
john
38
« on: August 15, 2013, 04:34:28 PM »
Hi Mate,
I posted about spongy levers a while ago and have pasted it below. Hope it helps. Ps Make sure that the little hole in the reservoir is not blocked. You can carefully poke it with a needle, (I did say carefully) to clear it out. the fluid must have a method of return and this little hole is it.
cheers
john
Hot tip for bleeding brakes after refitting pistons and seals!
Half fill reservoir and GENTLY pump fluid into system topping up as you go until it is obvious no more fluid required.
IMPORTANT Do not force the lever at any time as this will compress the air into the fluid, yes brake fluid will suck in air and it will become elastic.
Leave overnight. The weight of the fluid will want to go down and the air will want to come up. In the morning the air will be at the top of the system, and by GENTLY moving the brake lever in and out WITHOUT APPLYING FORCE you will see lots of bubbles rising into the reservoir. Do this for several minutes until the air bubbles stop rising. Leave for 15 minutes and then gently move the lever again to see if there is any more air. Repeat if necessary until no more bubbles.
The important thing about this process is not to apply pressure on the lever until the system has no air in it or you will compress the air into the fluid and this will give you a spongy lever.
Also you should avoid leaving the cap off the reservoir for long periods as air will ingress into the fluid merely under atmospheric pressure.
This method requires a little patience but beats the s--t out of spilling fluid over your nice clean bike!
Oh! One more thing, always use new fluid, if it has been in a can that has been opened for some time it is useless.
39
« on: May 06, 2013, 07:17:46 PM »
The last 400 engine I rebuilt had a 500/550 cam chain guide in it!
40
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:02:09 PM »
Hi,
Anyone in the South Wales area needing their carbs balancing?
I have a CarbPro 4 feed guage and some knowledge to go with it.
I will balance any of the SOHC fours for £15!! (I am retired and get bored with nowt to do).
I also have a very powerful strobe so I can set your ignition up too.
So how about £20 for the both!
Send me a pm and I'll get back to you.
PS I live in Caerphilly.
Cheer
John
41
« on: April 12, 2013, 11:45:31 AM »
Yep! it can cost a fortune if you're not careful.
I was wondering about WH Smith when I picked up a copy of Motorcycle Mechanics with a 1972 CB750K1 on the front page.
I had one back then brand new, I read the mag, emailed the editor asking for some help and he replied straight away. The editor at the time was the late Rod Gibson, his advice was to buy the best bike you can get as a starting point in order to have most of the parts readily available. Sound advice but my budget wouldn't allow me to do that so I down graded to a CB650Z that cost me 260 quid. Pics below.
The problem was that the bike was such a dog that I had to remove every nut and bolt and work from the ground up. The whole exercise cost me over £4,000 and I had to sell it on to recover my expences.
The danger is that you get so far in that you can't back out............
42
« on: April 09, 2013, 05:03:30 PM »
A couple of pics of a 650/4 rebuild. If it's worth doing, do it right!
43
« on: April 09, 2013, 03:38:59 PM »
Doing a complete engine rebuild on an old engine can be very time consuming. The engine will most likely be covered in tar and cow shit and will take an age to clean before you would even dare remove a bolt. Many of the bolts will have knackered heads and most of the screws will be deformed to some degree. This all takes time to do without damaging the cases.
What is the history of the engine, has it been thrashed? If it has, then the cost of a rebuild is likely to be more than a motor that has spent it's life cruising around. Have you ever looked inside an engine that has sat for a few years? Until it's been opened, you don't know what to expect!
Then of course there is the level of rebuild required. Do you want a blue print or just a reliable, smooth motor?
So, there is the cost of cleaning the engine, stripping it down, costing and sourcing the parts, and rebuilding. Painting? Add more for time and the paint.
I would say £250 to clean and strip the motor.
Then the motor has to be assessed, the parts aquired and then a rebuild, another £250.
On top of that you have to pay for the parts, so for an engine that only requires new chains, piston rings, seals, gaskets and the odd bearing around £500 quid should sort it. On the other hand your motor may need drastic surgery, i.e., rebore, new valves etc. So a basic rebuild could cost £1000 and a more serious contender, around £1500.
Honda engines are well engineered and items like main bearing shells, pistons and bores will probably be serviceable in all but high mileage engines (or thrashed ones) If you want to replace items like this as a matter of course because the engine is apart then start talking big money.
I recently rebuilt a 400/4 and the parts cost £490. The cam chain was just starting to chew into the cases due to a sticking tensioner. A new tensioner is about £100 but the engine owner decided to go for a clean and deburing operation which was completely succesful. So costs can be kept down where possible. It is easy to overdo a rebuild.
So for £500 I will consider rebuilding any of the SOHC fours, painting is an extra £100. You pay for the parts and the paint.
Pics below of 400/4
44
« on: September 19, 2011, 07:28:13 PM »
Hot tip for bleeding brakes after refitting pistons and seals!
Half fill resevoir and GENTLY pump fluid into system topping up as you go until it is obvious no more fluid required.
IMPORTANT Do not force the lever at any time as this will compress the air into the fluid, yes brake fluid will suck in air and it will become elastic.
Leave overnight. The weight of the fluid will want to go down and the air will want to come up. In the morning the air will be at the top of the system, and by GENTLY moving the brake lever in and out WITHOUT APPLYING FORCE you will see lots of bubbles rising into the resevoir. Do this for several minutes until the air bubbles stop rising. Leave for 15 minutes and then gently move the lever again to see if there is any more air. Repeat if necessary until no more bubbles.
The important thing about this process is not to apply pressure on the lever until the system has no air in it or you will compress the air into the fluid and this will give you a spongy lever.
Also you should avoid leaving the cap off the resevoir for long periods as air will ingress into the fluid merely under atmospheric pressure.
This method requires a little patience but beats the s--t out of spilling fluid over your nice clean bike!
My CB650Z front brake does have braded hoses but having used the above system the lever is solid and moves very little to provide good braking.
Oh! One more thing, always use new fluid, if it has been in a can that has been opened for some time it is usless.
45
« on: August 10, 2011, 07:33:33 PM »
Just thought I would share a problem that I had with the cb650Z.
It was running a little erratic and after rolling off the throttle it would take a few seconds to power up. I thought it was definately a carb problem so I stripped (total strip down) down a spare set and dunked them in maraine clean, used an air hose to blow out any s--t, put in new seals etc, I even went anal and zinc plated all the exterior fitting. They really looked brill. Put them on and the same prob occured.
B-ll-c-s I thought.
Well it turned out that I had unwittingly fitted resitor plugs and resistor caps which is fine on new bikes but not so clever on an old bike with 30 years of wear and tear on it. I changed the plugs to bog standard D8EA and fitted new resitor caps. What a difference! All 'carb' problems solved.
Something to consider before a full strip!
john
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