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Messages - z1100r
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31
« on: June 26, 2012, 12:00:09 PM »
Never seen one like that Bryan. I bought one 10 years ago and another beginning of last year both from DS and both the same - alum with steel ends in Honda bag with partnumber.The first new one lasted about 100miles..I figured out what was wrong after that, so decided to buy another new one last year whilst I still could. I used to put the original 500 engine back in every now and then when doing more tuning on the 600 - usually until I could stand the clutch no more , so not for long.
32
« on: April 02, 2012, 02:37:31 PM »
What size is your rear tyre and what is the free length of the rear shocks. Is it all std..?
33
« on: March 30, 2012, 08:21:48 AM »
Thats a lovely looking Kettle (nice and chunky). It was my dream bike in the 70's - until my mate bought a brand new red one. After a couple of early goes followed by a week using it I was glad to give it back. It was heavy slow and thirsty. He kept sliding off it, nothing serious, but it ended up in his garage totally stripped and left for years. half of it went to the tip, the engine was sold in MCN for next-to-nothing, and he gave up bikes.
Gotta say though I still love the look of them and would probably buy that one no probs at all...hehehe
34
« on: March 29, 2012, 12:55:53 PM »
There is something wrong with that - unless its a photo illusion.....looks like its ran into a wall. The forks are practically vertical. I would check the yolks out. I thought I read somewhere that UK bikes all had black painted light/number plate brkts. My UK K3 did.
Compared to Brit and Rusky jallopies its a Rolex.
35
« on: March 23, 2012, 09:16:29 AM »
The 500 cluch slips, think mine had H/d springs and was slightly better but it was fitted with a sidecar so was always going to slip a bit. 550 cluch could slip as badly if thrashed. 550K3 carbs are more fussy about being stood but give better economy. You'd be well advised to change the airbox rubbers if junking the rest of the 500 bits as I had choke cable routing issues with the k3 carbs combined with 500 airbox. K3 carbs and airbox are consequently a bit harder to squeeze in as the k3 rubbers are 10mm or so longer.
Agree, in terms of slipping, the K3 clutch was only slightly better. Choke cable and airbox were fine on mine though. I did swap the engine top cover I think, cant remember which one I used 500 or 550. Breather Pipe comes out at an angle on one and straight on the other. Guessing I used the one to match the carbs cable bracket. I actually found K3 carb rubbers considerably easier to fit. a) because they are longer and b) the gap between carb and airbox is larger. My airbox is stock 500.
36
« on: March 21, 2012, 03:45:24 PM »
Agree with everything that has been said except "You have to have 2 cables". I agree with Lester on that one.
On all my bikes that have 2 cables I have binned the 'close' cable. RD500's have them aswell. I think the cable is predominantly for cold weather carb icing.
I remember now how relieved i was when I swapped my carbs way back in 82 to 550 to have a totally transformed throttle action. - from stiff and horible to light and nice. I even used a weedier spring than a stock 550.
500-4 clutch and release mechanism is dreadful. As I think I said in my rebuild thread, The K3 was generally a so much improved bike that its well worth fitting a K3 motor and carbs - if you are going to ride the bike alot. My original 500-4 motor and carbs are still sat on the floor untouched from 82. I knew I'd be riding the bike alot, so rideability was the priority not authenticity.
37
« on: March 12, 2012, 02:03:07 PM »
These 4's are incredibly sensitive to carburation - if you seek perfection. Its very difficult to get it spot on. The airbox doesn't help with its inconsistent restrictive shape, but when its all working well they really are so much smoother and nicer to ride. If I could think of a setup that would look cool I would fit a single carb I think and get rid of all the headache you get from 4 carbs.
Glad yours is now OK andy
38
« on: February 17, 2012, 11:07:17 AM »
There is no one gear over any other that breaks but all can if abused in the past, i have seen dogs sheared off before now.
Gears and selectors are getting more and more difficult to find and 550 ones don't fit (maybe SOME gears before i get jumped on!! but a lot dont)
Sorry Bryan I have to disagree. There is a gear that is particulary weak on the 550.....its 3rd if I remember right, Honda later modified it by blanking off the dog slots at one end. I broke 2 3rd gears when racing, and finally fixed the problem when our local Honda agent showed me a service bulletin and produced the more solid 3rd gear. My race gearbox (the one thats in the restored bike as it stands) was constructed of mix and match 500/550 parts with the beefy 3rd included. (I agree there are some that are not interchangeable). As a race tuned 600 my Honda's original 3rd gear was nearly as bad as all 6 are in the 'chocolate' Suzuki RG500.
39
« on: January 31, 2012, 11:59:44 AM »
I thought about stainless too. Then i thought nargh sod it, whats the point...the bike wont be out in the salty wet again, it certainly wont be left parked in the rain all day and all night for 25 years. The std front chrome rim lasted from 1975 until 2010. I'll be long dead before another chrome rim is knackered. Polish it up with some waxy stuff every now and then they'll be fine I thought.
Plus, the rims I got from DS were dead true, with perfect length spokes making them an absolute doddle to assemble, and considering how much I was panicing about doing it before hand, I was sure glad it all fitted together so well.
I've seen them down at Central Wheel 'bending' and hammering spokes to get them to clear the hub, with great lengths of thread comming out of some and others clinging on with only a couple of threads. I had my Enfied wheels done there using Akront rims and stainless spokes. This was early 90's. They cost me a fortune and came back sh*t. The front hub was so distorted I could'nt get the backplates in with the shoes on. I had to loosen all spokes and start again...a bloody joke.
Stainless looks nothing like chrome, its alot duller, I wanted my Honda back to mega bling again.
40
« on: January 23, 2012, 09:56:07 AM »
The spokes with the longest nipple shank go on the outside. In other words poke the threaded bit of these from hub centre outwards. The spokes with the shorter nipple shank are poked through the hub holes from outside to in. They dont fit any other way without force.
I'm not on about spoke length, I'm on about just the nipple, the outside spokes are longer from nipple to bend.
Well thats what I did..
41
« on: January 11, 2012, 08:53:30 AM »
I recently rebuilt both of my wheels with DSS rims and spokes. My first time too. I have to say when laced up they came out remarkably true. The nipples all screwed in - to my eye - exactly the same amount. It was a joy to assemble. In terms of truing them, all I had to do was circle around the spokes giving them a turn at a time until all were tight.
Had you got it right..?? are they finished and trued now...?
Keep the original airbox...!!! K&N's are rubbish and noisy. Using the original air box is loads better. Its a still air chamber, if you want more air cut an oval slot in the bottom under the filter.
42
« on: December 21, 2011, 09:05:53 AM »
Yeah Ok Steve, I was just pointing out that its not the totally wrong thing to do.
I've advised folk to do the job 'properly' in the past only to find they go and break the piston rings refitting the barrel - one bloke even forced the piston up the barrel with a ring half in half out, making a right nasty groove, or they fit the cam chain guides incorrectly, or they snap studs, or fill the crankcase with sand and grit from those open barrel studs.
Narrgh if I just had an oil leak on an otherwise OK engine I would just fix the leak and not ask for all those other potential problems.
I've never had to use alot of force on any of my heads, even ones that hadn't been removed before from new..?? Find slot and appropiate lever, they just 'squeeze' up in my experience.
43
« on: December 20, 2011, 03:04:17 PM »
I'll agree in this case as it will be the - imposible to argue against - thing to do.
However, I myself wouldn't do it, I raced a 460 and 500/550/600 for a number of years during which time the tuning was a work in progress and consequently the heads were constantly on and off - say 5 or 6 times a season and through the winter aswell. I never once took the barrel off. I've swapped just the head loads of times with no problems at all.
You take each engine as you find it though I guess, an unknown engine i would strip anyway, but one I'd had for ages and knew didn't smoke and ran beautifully I would'nt strip, i'd just fix the oil leak.
44
« on: November 15, 2011, 02:25:15 PM »
Bigger master cylinder is IMO essential. The small bored original is not powerful enough. Didn't have any probs with speedo drive..  Aligning the swinging bracket with the disk is essential. On mine it just meant the mudguard went between the bracket and forkleg. A little odd because on the other side the mudguard is factory bent to fit on the outside of the bracket, but this way meant no filing, perfect alignment, and no flaking of the chrome trying to bend the mudguard. No one has ever noticed. All done early eighties, using the original MC and bending the front mudguard and filing the brackets.  Restored this year but swinging bracket fitted outside mudguard as i said..... alot easier and swinging arm is better inline with disc preventing squeal. Master cylinder reservoir is bit tall though 
45
« on: October 31, 2011, 09:41:10 AM »
Have you sorted it yet...?? Is it purring away like a little sewing machine again...??
I took my 500 out the other day. I was surprised that it took me 3 or 4 miles to get used to it. Been using using my Thunderace as dailly transport I guess, so going back to the apehangers and upright position seemed alien for 2 or 3 miles. Soon got used to it again and started enjoying it. Got to keep riding it, I dont want my nice spangly new carbs gumming up.
My float heights are 14mm aswell...I always set them on the rich end of what the book says. 14.5 +or- 1mm.
My needles are the 50's not 49's and are in the middle groove. The 50's i think are thinner at the top (richer) for initial pickup, but the same as the 49's after that.
My bike is a bit weird as its a 500 chassis, with 550K3 engine bored to 601cc using +0.050 GPZ305 pistons with K3 carbs on modified 500 airbox (The bottom of the box is cut out for extra air). Had to buy Longer 550 rubbers from states. Main jets are 112.5 (std are 90's). Head and manifolds are gasflowed and valves are bigger. With the race cam it used to rev to 12,500rpm but with a stock cam its only 10,000 but with more grunt.
Even with all those mods its on stock points ignition/timing (std cam) with only main jet changes to the carbs. Primary jets, slides, needles float heights etc are all totally stock and it runs perfect.
Dont forget to balance your carbs.
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