Honda-SOHC

Its great to get nice shiny fixings when they come back from plating, but when you are doing a full restoration there is a alot to sort

I have found that the fruit boxes with trays are very handy and have also used the plastic trays used to hold cream cartons etc.

2014_0519eng0016 by nitram2010, on Flickr

Stunning , your obviously a talented restorer martin
I have owned  loads of these chicken chasers in my time, 50 /70 / and 90cc, we used to put the 70 head and barrel on the ss50 to make it more bearable to ride
pete

Thanks, trouble is I generally spend more than they are worth 

But quite like the chase of finding parts and satisfaction in bringing back to life.

The way I look at it is, if these bikes can survive the period when they are worth very little  without being broken for spares and get a full restoration , barring accident or fire they will probably outlast me

I see some people have used the boiling water and Winter green oil, but I didnt fancy it.

Found a tip to use Xylene and concentrated Winter Green oil mix.

 Winter green is the more expensive, but bought 500ml and 5ltr Xylene for about £30.

Not economic if you only have a a few rubbers to do, but as I have quite a few decided to give it a try.

You need to be quite careful in handling these chemicals and use recommended protective clothing, ventilation, gloves etc.

I mixed at ratio of about 5 parts Xylene to 1 part WG oil in a medium sized pickle jar with lid.

First tried on inlet rubbers.

The rubbers were rock hard, but swell up  after soaking for a day or too, but dont leave too long.

It seems to work by the Xylene swelling rubber and WG oil then soaking into rubber to maintain flexibility.

Took a while for xylene to evaporate off after removed from mix and rubbers returned to normal size and now quite pliable.

Then tried with a small batch of rubbers including the unobtainable CB750F1 rear seat cowl rubber buffers.

With many of small mounting rubbers at £3 odd each and some rubbers unobtainable, may be of interest.

If the rubber has perished and cracked, this method will not restore.

First wheel took about 3 hrs to lace up, whilst I got the hang of it.

2014_0507cb750B40031 by nitram2010, on Flickr

second took about an hour

2014_0507cb750B40033 by nitram2010, on Flickr

Now I need to true

Used a paddock stand with wheel balancer adaptor.

Pencils were used as ref point  to true by eye.

Took a while and used tone of spoke when tapped as a guide to tension.

Dont forget to measure offset before you strip the wheels

Glad I did it as have never tried before, quite satisfying 

trueing jig7 by nitram2010, on Flickr

trueing jig6 by nitram2010, on Flickr

trueing jig4 by nitram2010, on Flickr

trueing jig3 by nitram2010, on Flickr

I used the inside part of flange and ignored the join when adjusting 'hop'

2014_0526eng0011 by nitram2010, on Flickr

I quite like looking at before and after pics, so thought I would add some for my humble C90.

It was everyday transport fot a neighbour of a friend, then sat outside for 25 years

2014_0129B4C900003 by nitram2010, on Flickr

2014_0129B4C900006 by nitram2010, on Flickr

2014_0129B4C900008 by nitram2010, on Flickr

2014_0203B4C900021 by nitram2010, on Flickr

2014_0203B4C900056 by nitram2010, on Flickr

and after

2014_0430cb750B40001 by nitram2010, on Flickr

2014_0430cb750B40018 by nitram2010, on Flickr

That's brilliant work Martin, you don't seem to mind starting from a low point given the pictures of both this and the F1 you've started. It looks amazing.
From a local interest point of view do you get up to Newlands corner at all, I count that as my local bike hang out and see all sorts of interesting stuff people bring up there.

I have never taken a bike up there, maybe in the Spring.

The frame has had a poor weld repair to right hand rear hanger area.

Could be fixed, but I dont have V5 for it, so could be used for parts unless someone fancies taking on a project?

As you can see from my previous post i am tackling the blasting and painting of my frame myself,this is for two reasons, number 1 is i just dont trust anyone to do it with the same care and attention that i will, and reason 2 is i usually powdercoat but this de values the sandcast , it is a big no no when you speak to any sandcast owner restorer, oh yes there is a third reason , i do not have the money to pay someone else
Yesterday i thought this would be a doddle probably an hour or two's work, how wrong could i be, my blaster just was not getting through the two layers of paint very quickly if atal in places, so i whipped out and got some paint stripper, quick word of advise do not ever by nitromores stripper, its expensive and totally shit, it just would not lift the paint, so i was out side till 11 last night trying to scrape off soft paint with a stanley blade and then go over it with a scotchbrite wheel on the drill, this got a good deal of it off so this morning i did more scraping , more blasting and more scotchwheeling and ended up with a shiney bare metal frame, all i can say is thank goodness that is over
now i have the problem of finding a doner frame and getting the seat hinges cut off and welded on to my frame as some mother f--er ground them off, as well as the side stand bracket which i have just done
now with all this moisture in the air at this time of year it would be stupid to leave it bare metal, so i have sprayed it up with some rust preventing primer till i get the seat bracket  situation sorted, that way it wont start rusting in a hurry, i also wrapped it in a blanket then boxed it up and have stashed it
Take a look there is absolutely no rust on this frame, the very light surface rust that was there came clean off with the blaster, so them two layers of awkward paint done the job, other than the ground off brackets you could not wish for a better 45 year old frame
pete




[imghttp://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/sandcast_008~2.JPG]http://[/img]

I see you are after seat hinges.

I have a later K frame CB750-2106621 that could be used as a donor if they are the same?

2014_1117kframe0004 by nitram2010, on Flickr

2014_1117kframe0001 by nitram2010, on Flickr

The projections are 15mm wide and 54mm from edge to edge