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Messages - steff750
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406
« on: July 09, 2011, 02:15:19 PM »
 the yanks love them old sandcasts, makes you wonder how they got it out of the country, ,no big deal over here as we never got them first time around 
407
« on: July 08, 2011, 12:35:20 AM »
"ring dodgers "sounds like some bloke who would never be seen dead in a gay bar seriously though Mr Honda started out making piston rings so i think he was pretty much clued up in that department ,so i would have too agree that Honda internals are better than anything else about at the time. i have never known Honda's too burn oil, except past the valve guide oil seals 
408
« on: July 04, 2011, 11:52:55 PM »
@ ash i saw my friends cb250 the other day,i think its as bryan says a candy sapphire blue model, im not sure if its a k1 or k0,(its got knee pads on the tank and on a H plate if that helps) and its definetly darker than my 1970 cb750's, and your red could well be a ruby red,i think it all boils down you either have a CB or a k1 paint scheme that bryan has listed, in them days i only had eyes for my candy gold/white cb250 k2 ETX 25K,im sure all k2's where this colour
409
« on: June 23, 2011, 10:36:01 AM »
this post is getting interesting with all the jargon coming out but" THE TRUTH IS OUT THERE " X-FILES,(bryan, K2 and spitfire) ,i can only do basic engineering ,so i will stick to my trusty 4 dial guages, timing light , and feeler guages 
410
« on: June 23, 2011, 10:18:45 AM »
in reguards to the amount of oil in the sump , i would say its just WET-SUMPING, as oil does get pass the oil stopper valve over a long period of time,if the bikes left standing, this is disasterous on old brittish bikes as it cant suck up the oil and blows the seals,but not a problem HONDA CB750,S they just suck the surplus back into the oil tank,i bet if you had warmed the bike up first you would not have had 2 litres of oil in the sump
411
« on: June 22, 2011, 11:09:45 PM »
just a quick heads up, i have had to modify this post has i have now checked out my friends bike its blue and white but a darker blue than the cb750 , ASH the HONDA CB250'S they did come in candy colours at least the ones you mention, (red/white and blue/white) my friend has a 1970 blue/white one ,and i have not seen a red one in years ,they did did a candy gold/white k2 which was my pride and joy when i was sixteen
412
« on: June 08, 2011, 11:07:28 PM »
hm sounds familiar if you got that stamped on the outside of your shell, then you have got the correct one ,only candy blue green (az)and candy ruby red (cm) used for 1970 UK bikes,anyway Seamus has told you all you need to know really
413
« on: May 29, 2011, 11:18:48 PM »
Start up bike and let it run for about 10 minutes, shut it off and put it on the center stand.start with the oil tank first.loosen the filler cap. Have a drain pan ready and remove the plug.After the tank is drained, replace and tighten the plug. Proceed on to the oil sump plug and drain the oil from there. Again, replace and tighten the plug.remove the oil filter housing. there is a thin washer between the oil filter element and the spring. This likes to stick to the filter and before you know it, you've thrown it away. crank the engine over a few times with the kick starter to get out the last remaining oil in the engine. Take a good look at what's in the bottom of the filter, as any bits of metal might be a warning that something's on it's way out. it might be worthwhile to drop the oil sump to give it a good cleaning and clean the oil pump gauze while the sump is off. Apply a bit of clean oil to the oil filter O-ring.With the bolt back in place, reassemble the oil filter housing with the spring first, then the washer and finally the new filter. Replace the filter onto the engine,do not to overtighten the bolt.Fill the oil tank with about three and a half pints of oil, the oil level will drop to its proper level when the engine is started. press the starter or kick it over a few times with the emergency stop switch off to circulate the oil into the empty filter housing before running the engine. After doing this, fire up the bike and the oil light goes out in a few seconds.if not your in trouble  check for oil leaks and oil level
414
« on: May 23, 2011, 12:09:15 PM »
it was used to supply oil too the chain (via that oil catch tray that you show in pic) through the final drive spocket and onto the chain, i think it was too try and solve the problem with chain breakage ,it was not added until late 1970 and early models did not have the chain oiler although the oil feed was adjustable it was not very successful as the hotter the oil got the more oil poured onto chain and then onto the pillion passenger they made the chain guard longer for that reason i think,unless your bike came fitted with part #23520-300-020 then you dont need it, part #23520-300-000 was and still is a better solution.
415
« on: May 11, 2011, 08:36:17 AM »
i am using dunlop tt100's and avon speedmaster's, i try and get mine from bike shows and save a bit on postage, i would like a set of bridgestones one day i think they where the original fitment
416
« on: March 08, 2011, 07:34:19 PM »
off the top of my head i would say they would work,as long as they are the same size, a local engineer who has done work for me would always bore the barrels too match the pistons and not just bore too a specified oversize ,i have mixed and matched k0- k4 bits over the years, i think the only real difference was in the f2 with the bigger chocolate valves, I'm sure some one will put you right soon enough
417
« on: February 27, 2011, 11:44:03 PM »
you might get a better answer later on, but here is my tip of the day i have done this myself but yet to see the results as the engine is still out of the frame i bought some chemical metal and filled the cases myself it is easy to mould and cut to shape BTW don't mix up the cases as they are made as a matching pair the same goes for the main bearings i would say welding is the route to go if you really want a perfect job , but i cant see any problems with chemical metal there is no oil or back pressure behind the cases and as long as it don't leak its job done for me
418
« on: February 27, 2011, 08:00:06 PM »
yes i have opened my CB750 clocks to clean and service internal parts as they are plastic the bases can be trimmed with a stanley knife (not for the faint hearted have a few beers first)i do have a new pair of faces to put on an old faded pair of spare clocks that i have, i will get round to do them some day, yours are metal easy to open but are real buggers to put back together again,i did open a pair of k1 clocks years ago and they are still in bits, its like trying to put the lid back on a sardine can yes a saw the gold k2 on ebay very low mileage as well (sorry now i put 3000 miles on one of my 300 mile CB750) the owner does visit this site from time to time he has an even better very early CB750 to play with nuff said nudge nudge wink wink, it does seem to make all our efforts restoring bikes worth while though,it might be time to start unloading a few of my early CB750's on the unsuspecting public of ebay, before the banks become a safe bet again 
419
« on: February 26, 2011, 11:11:14 AM »
good job Kacey very nice tank and very good colour match ,did you leave under the filler cap and under petrol tap unpainted as you know the petrol gets under the paint and lifts the paint off,I'm planning to do one of my Honda's gold one day ,if i ever get round to it, if not i could farm the work out to you lol
420
« on: February 21, 2011, 11:27:52 PM »
yes water in the exhaust is a sign of good combustion ,thats why the four into four exhausts rotted from the inside out so quickly,unknown to HONDA at the time they never really get up to temperature,unlike the four into one exhausts which run a lot hotter. and i did read in some anorak magazine ,that for every gallon of petrol burnt in the internal combustion engine it will produce 3/4 of a gallon of water
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