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Messages - Ewan 500 K1
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421
« on: February 28, 2012, 11:55:52 PM »
Pods work fine on my K1 with 4 into 4 straight throughs and rejetted to 110 mains. Has a bit of a lean tendency , so could maybe got to slightly bigger mains. ... needed balancing of course. ... and MPG suffers. With standard 100 jets it seems to lose a bit of mid range ooomph.
Intersted in your combined regulator/recifier , whats the crack with that....... and where d'ya get your drills for the disc drilling, cobalts ?, price .... or even are they still in good enough nick to sell on . Disc drilling is nearing the top of my list of things to do next ?
422
« on: February 11, 2012, 07:55:40 PM »
Kendo .. you are KHD on revcounter ?? ... your wheel build was my inspiration to give it a go 
423
« on: February 11, 2012, 12:25:13 PM »
rest of the pics...
424
« on: February 11, 2012, 12:15:15 PM »
Front wheel rebuild done right this time, So here's how I did it . I used following guides for the wheel building; http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/http://www.classicbikes.org.uk/ ..... wheel building page 1. Got loads of help from this forum and the US one 2. Cut the old spokes and rim off the hub 3. Polished outsides of hub and painted centres with etch primer and black epoxy paint (Pic 1, below) 4. Worked out the difference between the two spoke types (Pic 3, below) 5. Put the "B" spokes on the outside of the hub, ie poked them through the holes from the inside of the hub to the outside (see pic 3&4, below. Note that Pic 4 is to show arrangement of the "B" spokes only, I put all spokes on the hub before lacing any of them) 6. Put the "A" spokes on the inside of the hub, ie poked them through the holes from the outside of the hub to the inside (pics 3&5, below Note that Pic 5 is to show arrangement of the "A" & "B" spokes only, I put all spokes on the hub before lacing any of them) 7. When all the spokes were on the hub,(see Pic 6, below) I sat the hub on a table and sat the rim over it and loosely arranged the spokes. Then, laced the A spokes on the speedo side hub to the rim and put the spoke nipples on a couple of turns. Then did the B spokes for the speedo side of the hub, Turn the wheel over, do the "A" spokes for the brake disc side, then the "B" spokes for the brake disc side , again putting the nipples on a couple of turns.. So, all spokes now laced up (see Pic 7, below) 8. Made a truing jig out of an old pair of forks bolted to a work bench. Put the wheel the jig (see Pic 9. Went round all nipples taking one off at a time, put a bit of oil on the female nipple thread and a bit of copper grease on the rim nipple seat. Then put the nipple back on and tightened it 10 turns with a cross head screwdriver. Worked round the wheel until all spokes / nipples oiled, greased and tightened 10 turns. 10. Used a dial gauge and spoke wrench (see Pic 9 & 10) to get the wheel true to 0.2mm vertical, then 0.2mm horizontal, then checked vertical again. .....Always starting at biggest high and low points and tightening spokes a turn or so at these points and tightening adjacent spokes half a turn. This was fairly easy, taking about an hour or so to get trued up. (note that its impossible to get the rim true to this degree at the point where the rim weld is) 11. Job Done
425
« on: January 28, 2012, 06:40:03 PM »
sorry to hijack the the thread, but ive been following it, as i'm thinking of replacing mine with new rims and spokes, what do you think of the quality of dss rims and where did you get the spoke wrench from. any advice would be appreciated.
Clive, spoke wrench came from http://dirtbikestore.co.uk. They have a couple of different models. In hindsight I think I should have got stainless rims and spokes myself
426
« on: January 23, 2012, 08:21:37 PM »
plain (as it can get ) english award to z1100...... Ive modified my last post, using your words. I think we were in the same place  Words., who'd ave em. I'll do some pictures when I get time to do another rebuild of the front wheel. Bryan , I think we;re also in the same place re which spokes go where. I'll try your 20 spokes first method and let u know , sounds sensible to me. Almost feel as if I might know what I'm doing next time around
427
« on: January 22, 2012, 10:03:03 PM »
saw is running okay again , hey summats going right the day  All spokes are back off the wheel. Just measured the two different types. The ones with >90 degree bend = 214mm from extremity to extremity = A spokes (part no. 44606-300-003). The ones with the <> 90 degree bend are 219mm frm extremity to extremity = B Spokes (part no. 44607-300-003) See photo below. So, unless someone tells me different , I'm gonna put the B spokes on the outside of the hub (In other words poke the threaded bit of these from hub centre outwards)......and the A's on the inside (poked through the hub holes from outside to inside). 3rd time lucky then ....... Again, thanks all for helping me through the pain and agony. If it fails next time around, think I'll jst stab masel in the throat wae one of the damn things. 
428
« on: January 22, 2012, 08:12:28 PM »
Okay,just checked with DSS website, Spoke "A" is 203mm long, and goes on the inside of the hub, Spoke B is 202.5mm long, and goes on the outside of the hub, hope this helps
why dont they tell ya that when ya buy the effin things FFS . Great day today , poured chain oil into the petrol tank in the chainsaw, full strip down took rest of afternoon. Bring on the summer Mick, if you could spare me a nipple , that'd be great. I'll PM you.
429
« on: January 22, 2012, 02:31:56 PM »
No they are NOT, according to the parts list, there are 20 Type "A", and 20 Type "B", the difference is very slight, but they are different 
SHIT !!!!, so they are ! . I assume 20 are inside and 20 outside . Any idea which are which. Ones from Dave Silver all came ina single packet
430
« on: January 22, 2012, 01:51:42 PM »
crap & bollocks , when I look at the rebuilt front wheel, the hub is too far off centre, despite the rim being trued to 0.2mm... need to unbuild and start again. Additional buggeration is that I have now mashed one of the the nipples. Can anyone tell me this, are all 40 spokes identical ?
431
« on: January 19, 2012, 08:05:28 PM »
You could buy a small piece of Aluminium plate [ebay] and just bolt it between
the rear frame tubes. You would probably have to put a slight bend in it for tyre clearance
but that is easy enough with alloy.
I was originally going to relocate the battery on mine but trying to fit a full size battery
and all the electrics in a small seat hump seemed to need alot of compromises. As you can see
from my Avatar i ended up fitting alloy side panels.
A new seat would be a better option so you can experiment without damaging you present seat.
Cheers Kendo n Steve bit of ali was on my mind ... or welded in plate. But yeah was worried about clearance (mibi longer shocks would help) . So yeat at: 1. Ali plate, so that it can be shaped for clearance 2. welded flat steel plate with longer rear shocks 3. Find a modern one to fit (anyone know of any definites ?) I think the current seat has enough room for a battery and some electrics in its rear hump.. also a bit of space between seat base and where cover for standard air box was ... so think the space is there okay as long as I cut a section out the seat base.... it aleady has a hinged box compartment
432
« on: January 18, 2012, 09:59:56 PM »
Dilemma 1: Do I up chop the rear quarter of the seat base off to allow battery relocation ..... or get a different seat unit ? Dilemma 2: What to do about rear inner mudguard ? .... dont like the stock plastic job, but don't want road muck all over then engine and air intakes. Photos of any solutions mucho appreciated
433
« on: January 13, 2012, 06:53:42 PM »
Carbs now have 110 jets & K&N's paired with 4 into 4 straight through pipes. Runs sweet with that set up, but was essential to balance the carbs. Also used a coloutune to check idle sped air mix, which seems fine according to the colourtune. Fuel consumption is ridiculous -- 25mpg ish ?? . SPOKE WRENCH ARRIVED THIS MORNIN > WOOP WOOP Front wheel built and trued to 0.2mm vertical and horizontal. First wheel build, wasn't too difficult.
Photos showing roughly what finished job will look like , minus rear sets, new headlight, dual disk, master cyliner, indicators and shorty front mudguard . Dilemma = what to do about rear nudguard, want to keep it clean and open, but dont want muck all over the K&N's
434
« on: January 12, 2012, 07:13:15 AM »
cheers folks ... clutch cover holes abandoned. K&N's staying as a feature though as I'm opening the middle up ..... relocating battery / electrics etc and god its a pain in the arse getting the carbs off with the original filter on. Not finished the wheels yet .... family stuff keeps getting in the way and spoke wrench still to arrive in the pst! ..... its going to be slow prgress
435
« on: December 30, 2011, 08:48:57 PM »
Steel liner is good ... cheers.. and been hoarding some morris Minor brake hubs for past 15 years "just in case" .. and just couldn't resist picking up a 2nd hand Dyna S on ebay Engine had a major refurbishment about 3000 miles (8 years !) ago. No probs with availability of spokes n rims at DSS... except that I'd also ordered two new brake pistons that were out of stock and DSS were reluctant to send wheels / rims as a part order... so it did take a couple of months for them to arrive (and why didn't I get stainless spokes anyway !) Hoping I've laced the wheel right second time around... will need to look at it again with a fresh mind t'morro....got a bit minced today with the 5 dimensional aspect of it . Only concern just now is that some spokes are rock tight towrads end of thread being visible, while others are still well waggly. We'll see what a fresh look in the morning and a spoke wrench brings to things. Think I fancy some black pinstrpes around inside of the new rims.
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