Honda-SOHC

Well bugger me, Ok I see, I was looking (and confused) by one of the tables in that PDF cb350/400f shop manual floating around and checked it in the haynes manual and you're right oddjob, Thanks for that. probably should have checked the haynes manual first.

Ok so is it wise to use browns or greens in place of blacks or yellows? or should I leave it until I can find either of the two which isn't ideal really as I don't have an infinite amount of time to store the bike where it is

Thanks, Ryan

Hi Guys,

This part looks pretty worn to me, however, is it actually worth replacing? or should I just dismantle it, clean up the burrs and re-install. I can't see the part actually failing in service. but whats the general thoughts on this one?

Thanks, Ryan

Gents,

- I was planning a repair weld on the gears with a suitable filler but I'm think the hardness could be matched without post weld heat treatment.

- I emailed the site linked from Ian for a price on a whole unit.

I've been photo documenting the whole rebuild and throwing it into a word document which i'll upload at the end if anyone's interested

Thanks, Ryan.

That's some lumpy welding!

I think just taking out some of the most proud parts of the weld and dressing the edges/toes to blend it a bit would make it look a lot better if you're careful

Sorry for reviving an old thread,

FINALLY after a few months, I've got the bike home properly and took the exhaust off and front brake caliper.

Unfortunately during my first inspection I missed a bloody hole in the bottom of the silencer (Attached) and a single bent spoke on the front wheel (Does anyone here think that a single bent spoke on the front wheel is anything to worry about for the time being?).

The exhaust sounds like a maraca and after poking my finger through the hole a load of rust pours out... So I'm going to look at making a stainless exhaust in the near-ish future, probably not TOO difficult.

I took the caliper apart to find a fair bit or corrosion on the inside and the piston has some pretty bad pitting, after machining a new piston out of stainless bar stock to the dimensions of the old one, fitted it back together and bled the system however it doesn't feel like there is a great deal of power there, the lever can, with a bit of grip, touch the bars and the pads don't seem to reset properly (Slight bind). Am I over estimating the brakes power? or is this just how they are?

P.S: I changed the oil from the 20w50 stuff for halfords 15w40 and that has cleared up the clutch slip dramatically and also I believe it has solved the sticky gear change since I haven't encountered a problem yet. thanks for everyones advice on that.

Thanks, Ryan

Hi Ash,

At work, We had to use Rocol HT70 bearing grease (it's a high temp grease) for lubricating some stainless studding (I dunno, Customers orders, We'll probably never use it again), The stuff is ludicrously sticky and noone likes using it because it gets everywhere and sticks like crap. I've just got some on my hand from looking at the tub for you and I'm still struggling to get it off.

It's also very thick like treacle so whether or not it's suitable I don't know but maybe worth a look?

EDIT: Just looked at the website and it says it's for slow speed applications only, Sorry. I just picked the tub up, read what it was and put it down again not wanting to hold it or touch it for longer than I had to haha.

Hi Ka-Ja,

Thanks for your reply, I discovered that everything was fitted properly with the kickstart lever, however out of desperation I had to replace the old cover gasket with a card one which was thinner and when the cover was tightened it bound the kickstart up a bit, slackening this off has sorted the problem out and it should be fine when my new gasket comes through the post.

The oil pressure ended up being fine once I popped the oil pan off and cleaned the crap out and the oil screen.

I have now discovered another problem!

Problem 1: I am getting clutch slip, this occurs when i'm at about 30mph and open up past 5 - 6k, The cable has slack on it and I believe I assembled the clutch correctly (Steel plates with he sharp side of the lugs pointing toward the engine), I also replaced the springs when I replaced the friction plates. I am using Halfords Classic motor oil 20W-50W (Link: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_166289_langId_-1_categoryId_165581)

Problem 2: I cannot seem to reliably shift down, Especially from second to first. shifting up seems to be ok-ish but shifting down at times seems to leave me pressing on the lever without anything engaging, whether rolling forward/backward with the on or off.

Possible Problem 3: The engine seems to be quite rattly, I'm not experienced enough to tell whether or not this is a bad thing and I've herd these engines are generally quite rattly. Sounds like a chain to me, the sound is coming from the centre of the cylinder head however. the cam chain pensioner bolt looks to me like it is out of travel. I'll upload a couple of pictures and a video on my phone later.  EDIT: Attached should be a picture of the tensioner bolt (Might have a couple mroe turns left in her but she doesn't look good as far as a seized bolt is concerned, haven't tried it)