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Messages - Ashdowner
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46
« on: July 09, 2017, 10:51:27 PM »
I have a 550K1 and a 550K3. The K3 has P46A carbs and the action is as light as a feather. The K1 has different carbs which I believe are called Type 1. The cables are free and greased on the K1 and it's only the strength of the spring which is the problem, because it is very strong when compared to the K3 and there's no way I'd want to ride it as it is. A lighter spring has to be the answer.
47
« on: July 06, 2017, 10:19:56 PM »
Yep BryanJ I did it a week ago. I got it running today and too kit for a spin. Idle is inconsistent and the pickup on the throttle isn't what it was a few weeks ago. Will take it a run tomorrow and put it on the gauges and see where I am.
48
« on: July 06, 2017, 07:41:21 AM »
Or alternatively to all that you could buy electronic ignition like Boyer which gets rid of the points and the manual advance and never have to worry about it again. Just a thought.
49
« on: July 06, 2017, 07:36:54 AM »
I run a 4.10 x 18 Pirelli on the back and the stock size Pirelli on the front and I'm really happy with them.
50
« on: July 06, 2017, 07:33:56 AM »
My P46A carbs are spotlessly clean inside. The jets are totally clear. The timing is spot on. Get the main jets into play and it runs superbly. But with vacuum gauges connected how do you adjust those pesky air screws to get the perfect tickover? At the mo the screws are all set to 1.1/2 turns out. Where do I go from here?
51
« on: July 02, 2017, 09:56:09 PM »
Cured this problem on mine some time ago and you may have the same problem. I hope I can explain it. The bolt that goes through the flanges on the top of the sidestand and the lug that is attached to the frame to hold everything in place is part threaded and goes into a thread in the inner flange of the stand with a locking nut on the thread protruding through. On mine the length of unthreaded bolt that the stand swings on appeared to be too long and as the weight was put on the stand it made the flanges splay apart and this free play allowed the stand to lean out further than it should. The answer was to get a washer of suitable thickness and diameter for the bolt and then tighten it up so it pulled the flanges back parallel and tight up to the frame lug but not too tight that the stand couldn't swing. Then put the locknut on the back and tighten up. There is now no lateral play in the stand and it holds the bike at the correct angle. JohnWebley was ptobably right on the diagnosis but if you don't put the washer in place to take up the free play on the bolt then the weight of the bike will just splay the flanges out again.
52
« on: June 17, 2017, 08:56:57 AM »
I believe that they are mail only.
53
« on: June 17, 2017, 08:50:31 AM »
Replace your tail light and indicators with LED's. Get a new LED flasher relay. Get a Phillips Eco H4 headlamp bulb. Total cost for me was about £16. Haven't had to think about my electrical system since.
54
« on: June 11, 2017, 08:04:10 AM »
Wow. I've got a US K1 which is almost identical to yours and I hope it turns out as good as that.
55
« on: June 11, 2017, 06:27:38 AM »
Thanks for that OJ. On that basis mine is definitely too loose. I'm going to Holland on a visit next week so I'll get some delivered to my sisters.
56
« on: June 10, 2017, 10:37:43 PM »
Thanks Bryan and SeaB. It's probably going to be bratified so it will have a single exhaust in which case I'll keep looking for the F.
57
« on: June 10, 2017, 10:33:57 PM »
Just taken my K3 clutch apart and found two very thin steel washers behind the retaining circlip that holds the basket on the shaft. Looked it up on CMSNL and found that there are three thicknesses of these washers (Item 15 on the clutch exploded view and part no 90458323010 is the 0.1mm thick option). So they obviously act as shims, but how tight should they be holding the clutch on the shaft? Is there some specified gap between the circlip and the shims? My clutch does move a fraction up and down the shaft and I wonder if this contributes to the famous CB550 clutch rattle.
58
« on: June 10, 2017, 11:14:41 AM »
Just discovered my F1 is in fact a K1. So need a centre stand for a K.
59
« on: May 26, 2017, 08:47:44 PM »
As always you have to try the easy solutions first. Is the wire magnetic to see if it will pull out with a magnet. If not then the only way to do it I would suggest is to take the carbs off, and the bowl of the offending carb. The vent comes into the side of a little tubular depression in the top of the carb body. If you are lucky that piece of wire will be sticking far enough into the tube for you to grab it with a pair of very thin tweezers. If it's broken off and not sticking out then push another piece of wire into the hole to push it into the tube and ditto.
60
« on: May 23, 2017, 02:49:25 PM »
I'm with K2-K6. Check the valve clearances to make sure one hasn't tightened up which can happen if you haven't used the bike for a while.
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