Honda-SOHC

Hi all,

I am in the process of ordering a new gasket set for reassembly, I will be updating my project page soon!

I've been very busy on the bike and with work so haven't had time to build and post, but I am making progress at last!

My question is, I was going to order a gasket set from DSS (NE Brand I think), But I've been reading some horror stories about people having leaks a few thousand miles in from the same place.

I was wondering if there are alternatives to this? (Ive seen a company called wemoto selling an Athena kit), has anyone fitted this?

Or are there any tips when applying the gaskets and O"rings?

I was going to buy original valve stem seals, as they seem cheap enough from DSS and don't want to risk it.

Also what product are people using to seal the crankcases together?

Any prefered places to buy these from?

As always any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Andy

Hi all,

Just about to rebuild my wheels, but forgot to take an offset measurement, doh!

Can anyone confirm if they are central on these or have an offset?

I know a previous post from Kenny it's implied they are central, but just after confirmation.

Thank you.

Ok, I've been away from the project for a while as I was on holiday and was waiting for tools and bits to come back from the blaster.

Ive had the cush drive rubbers removed from the rear hub by a machinist as they were a bugger to get out, but I was sent the wrong cush drives twice by M&P direct, who then told me they don't sell them for my bike! I thought £14 for a set was too good to be true, there £11 each from DSS!!!

I have now been able to remove the clutch as I was waiting for my clutch holding tool to arrive in the post and have split the cases today.

I need a new gear for the gearbox as it's got part of the teeth missing.

I used a green plastigauge ( I was given red wax and a green gauge) which measures between 0.175mm-0.5mm and measured all the bearings, I'm not sure I've done it right as the Clymer manual says to place the wax bit between the bearing and the crankshaft and check the clearance is not greater than 0.08mm, but the plastigauge instructions says to put the wax bit between the journal and the bearing.

The main bearing shells look OK to me, no scratches or pitting,  but could anyone tell me there thoughts? No 3 on the top looks a bit scratched.

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I hear Bryanj is good at this stuff.

After reading the post on this forum "Do you need to fully torque down when measuring bearing wear with Plastigauge?" I think I have deciphered the codes on my crankshaft, from the rotor I have A A A A  and 2 2 2 1 2 on the crank and on the conrods they read 1C 1C 1C 2C, I'm not sure the 2 is correct, could be a one, its very hard to tell.

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The code stamped on the block is BBBBC and the shells are as follows....

Bottom                                    TOP
1-Green-D2I A STD               1-Green-D2I A STD
2-Green-D2I A STD               2-Green- D2I A STD
3-?-D0I A STD                      3-?- D0I A STD
4-?-D3L A STD                      4-?-D3L A STD
5-Green-D2I A STD               5-Green- D2I A STD

So am I right in saying that the main bearing code is B2, B2, B2, B1, C2?
Im confused about the big end bearings though and where do I find what colour I need? The Clymer book just has a letter code without number.

I've read other posts I just can't get my head around it!

Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.

Cheers Royhall, might give that a go myself. DSS are asking £125 for a new one, not including vat or delivery!

I just started a new thread, but probably should have asked you first, did you put any grease in your hubs when installing your wheel bearings?
I'm installing the same bearing kit, but wondered if the axle needs greasing first?

What gasket kit did you use on the engine build? Are DSS any good?

What graphite paste did you use and did you coat any other components other than the ones you mentioned previously in your post?

Or are there any good resources out there for newbie engine rebuilders?

This thread is proving very helpful and I'm loving your attention to detail.

Hi all,

I thought the title might grab your attention

Tomorrow I am having my front and rear hubs powder coated and was going to instal the new bearings while they are hot and freeze the bearings to aid installation.

My question is, should I grease the inner axle shafts on the front and rear hubs and if so what type of grease should I use?
The new bearings I am installing are All balls, sealed bearings so I guess no greasing necessary there.

I was going to instal the cush drive rubbers while I was at it, but I've been sent the wrong ones

Any help would be much obliged.

Cheers

Andy

Awesome thank you Julie, I look forward to it.

Saisei, I know it seems strange just to rely on the head itself as a bearing, as now its this badly scored it seems the only option is a replacement head, or at least that's what the clymer manual says.

That would be a massive help sweetpea, thank you! I'll take all the advice and help I can get.

I'm going to have a play removing a few more parts tomorrow, then should be up to that point.

Where are you based?

Feel free to PM me and we'll arrange something between us.

I had an awful time trying to remove the cush rubbers this evening, I know my limits and think I might have to take them somewhere to be removed, I don't want to damage the hubs.