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Messages - adriangsmith
46
« on: March 30, 2017, 10:32:31 AM »
I used a local insurance broker Frames Insurance in Broadstairs Kent.
He's used to dealing with modified bikes (harleys mainly) and he gave me a very good quote
phone number is 01843 609740
47
« on: March 29, 2017, 09:58:18 AM »
Hi All,
I'm running an F2 engine with F1 carbs, marshall exhaust and cone filters.
Do i need to change the jetting at all to get the best performance from the F2 engine?
It seems to be running rich with the needle in middle position, #40PJ and #115 MJ.
Also if left standing for 2weeks it will inevitably only run on 3 cylinders until you remove the jets from the offending carb and blow them through.
Looking for a UK source for main and pilot jets if it works out cheaper than buyng the carb rebuid kits form DSS.
Thanks
Adrian
49
« on: February 27, 2017, 04:45:17 PM »
found a local broker Frames Insurance in Broadstairs Kent.
Very helpful and used to dealing with classic / modified bikes (mainly harleys).
All sorted in under 20 minute!
£155 fully comp for both bikes!
Speak to Gary Frame on 01843 609740 for a quote.
50
« on: February 27, 2017, 03:00:45 PM »
Hi all,
who do you use for insurance?
Most of hte major sites dont seem to list the 1976 cb750f1 and even the advisors have trouble tracking the correct bike down.
Just had a quote of £400 for that and my 2004 Triumph Thruxton.
seems very steep to me considering i only pay £150 fully comp for my Thruxton by itself!
51
« on: January 17, 2017, 09:32:11 PM »
Well, at long last I have oil pressure.
This was the third strip down of the pump after trying and failing with the vaselene trick.
Took me 3 hours to get all the vaselene out!
So the pump was fully strippe dand ultrasonically cleaned.
Replaced the shaft oilseal and checked all wear limits on the rotors, all of which were well within tolerance.
Reassembled the pump with the rotors and housing lightly smeared with grease to help give an initial pull.
immersed pump in the drained oil from the last attempt and primed the pump whilst holding the non return plunger open.
This released all the air and the pump was bled with 5 minutes.
Loosly assembled pump back onto engine and filled the oil tank allowing it to drain through the lines before tightening the oil pump.
I did this to minimise any chance of an airlock on the supply side.
Left the oil filter off and kicked over until oil was seen at the filter inlet.
It took another 5 minutes of kicking to get oil up into the main gallery and the light went out.
Time for a rest now and then friday hopefully make sure i have oil to both sides of the cam and then see if she will fire up!
I will say that there is an error in Ash's megamanual pg. 304. (shown below) The arrow showing the direction to turn the gear is pointing the wrong way.
Had me puzzling for half an hour how i could have managed to build it back up wrong!
Finally checked the rotation of the drive cog in the engine and worked out the drawing was wrong.
52
« on: December 29, 2016, 01:55:02 PM »
53
« on: December 29, 2016, 11:09:02 AM »
Hi All,
Pump all ultrasonically cleaned and valve section reassembled.
Both valves slide freely with no undue play.
Double checked all rotor clearances and they are well within their servicable limits. In fact very little wear seen at all.
The only part I never replaced was the shaft oil seal.
Are these still available? if so does anyone have a part number or dimensions?
I'm going to reassemble this with only a film of oil in the rotor half, that vaseline was a complete pain to remove!
Will hold off rebuilding the rotor section until i can find out if i can obtain the shaft oil seal.
I also blew compressed air through the oil filter inlet and outlets and both were clear.
54
« on: December 28, 2016, 06:11:50 PM »
Are the jets in the head unblocked ?Yes. this is what caused me to strip it down in the first place as one was blocked with a grain of sand and wrecked the cam and carrier.
The oil travels up the head studs, are these oil ways clear ? Clean as a die. made sure of that one
Is oil getting to the oil filter bolt ? No oil what so ever :-(
Do all the main oil ways have there caps on tight and is the oil pressure switch nice and tight ?yes
Did you put a new O ring in were the crank cases fit together and the O ring fits round a dowel ? Yes
No oil at all even with the filter removed.
Pump does not want to pick up.
Main gallery totally dry.
Going for a final strip degrease and full cleanup of the pump again tomorrow.
Found some useful information pages 300 - 304 of Ash's mega manual.
I get the feeling the pump is the issue as i cant seem to get it to prime properly even with vaseline.
Anyone got a referb'd one they want to do an exchange on???
55
« on: December 28, 2016, 05:01:31 PM »
Starting to get the feeling this oil pump is shot even though rotors show very little wear and are well within limits.
56
« on: December 28, 2016, 01:11:04 PM »
I fear I must be doing something wrong.
Sump and pump off, dismantled pump and packed pump with vaseline, reassembled and filled ports with vaseline and it was sucking it in well, fit back onto bike fill with oil and still absolutely no oil making it to the main gallery.
Oil was flowing well out of the tank with the pump off.
What else would stop the oil flow?
plunger valve was moving easily.
Could i have put the rotors in incorrectly? both drive pins were in and located properly.
Maybe I blocked an oil pathway when i reassembled the engine cases?
Also just found this diagram that I found useful to explain the flow and return routes.
57
« on: December 26, 2016, 10:13:45 AM »
yes new o rings fitted to the pump. Didn't prime the pump though. so i guess sump off, pump out and vasalene time!  I have also tried reverse filling by filling the main gallery with oil. letting it sit and kicking it over every 2-3 hours to try and release any trapped air.
58
« on: December 26, 2016, 06:41:40 AM »
I rebuilt my oil pump alongside my engine rebuild.
I now cannot get any oil up to the main gallery.
The scavenge side of the pump is working well as it picked up the pint of oil i tipped down the rocker cover and deposited it back in the tank.
But what ever i do i cannot seem to get any thing from the pressure side of the pump.
Is it possible to put the rotors back together wrong?
I know i matched the dots on each pair of rotors with both facing upwards during assembly.
The pressure relief valve moves easily, maybe a little to easily but still has pressure against it.
Any ideas anyone??
59
« on: December 12, 2016, 10:44:06 AM »
Hi All,
Below please find attached a drawing of the tool I made up to set the carb heights on my CB750F1.
I made this from 1mm plastic sheet, but could also be made from aluminium or cardboard just as easily.
For best results measure with the carbs on their ends with the float tab just resting on the needle valve.
Measure across the centre of the floats using the cut out on the bottom of the float chamber as your reference face.
For reference a picture of the type of carb is also attached.
60
« on: December 05, 2016, 09:02:29 PM »
Hi all,
Can some one please confirm the correct float heights for a CB750F1 and where you measure them from?
What I understand is they are 26mm and measured from the notch in the carb bowl seat to the top of the float when the float just rests on the needle valve.
Is this correct???
Cheers
Adrian
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