Honda-SOHC

Ahh.

Rear stand arriving next week from America.
I will try that as soon as it’s fitted John


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Hi John,
There’s a bit of a rattle coming from the clutch area which disappears when lever is pulled in.
When you actually put her into gear the clutch is working correctly from what I can see.

I forgot to mention in post, a few weeks back when I got her first fired up, the drive chain want fitted and she clicked through the gears ok, although there was a bit of noise in forth and fifth gear, sounded like a rattle.


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Hello everyone,

Could anyone shed some light on why my CB750 k5 engine won’t shift gear with massive pressure on the shift lever when the engine is running?
When the engine is not running the lever shifts through the gears smooth.
I’ve been putting this bike together over last few months, it was just a frame and engine when I got it, engine itself runs great, today is the first day I’ve got her out so I’ve only Just discovered this.
Thanks for any help


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No guarantees of course, but I hope it works for you....they do motorcycle cylinders, so provided there is nothing exceptional or unusual or the damage is in the wrong spot I would hope they can do it for you......I'd be interested to know how you get on.

Mick.

Hi Mick,
Just like to thank you for recommending past parts.
Just received the cylinder back this morning, I made a right balls of it so they had do a sleeve within a sleeve, I’ve fitted it this evening and it’s all good.
The guys there were really helpful and it was a reasonable price they charged.
It came back looking brand new



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The bottom rear is unique to the 750F2, none of the other SOHC 750's use those alloy footrest brackets. Try D.K. spares or similar for one.

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Thanks pal, I think the bolt that’s there must be of an earlier model, the bike is a bit mix and match


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I have 750K bolts, if you would like the length. The front lower is 90152300010 for the K and F1 and F2 

Thanks very much Trigger.

I’m doing a build which is a f2 frame and a k5 engine.
The rear bottom bolt seems to be to short by the time it goes through the frame then out the aluminium peg mounting blocks.
I haven’t got enough thread to mount the forward foot rests, I got the bike as just a rolling frame and engine it had nothing else so I’ve been slowly sourcing parts and putting here back together and the front mount is just a bit of m10 threaded rod, do you have a spare rear lower and the front clutch side bolt for sale at all?


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If you're on about the cam chain tensioner at the back of the engine, yes it can be easily removed without stripping the engine. Just remove it, take it apart which is a push rod and spring, reube it, push the plunger all the way down, lick it with the locking bolt, put it back in with new gadket. Set engine at TDC + a few degrees, release locking bolt, it will automatically set itself, tighten up locking bolt and licking nut. Job done.

Thanks for your advice, that’s good news.


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Send a photo of the unit and the damage to past parts   http://www.pastparts.co.uk/

They bore out and re sleeve master cylinders in stainless steel and return them with the original bore size, so depending on where and what the damage is, it might not matter.....you have nothing to lose by asking.

Incidentally, the price to re sleeve my XS2 master cylinder was £45 plus Vat and return postage.

Mick.

Mick that’s fantastic I’ll check them out now, thanks so much


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