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Messages - SeanFD
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46
« on: March 14, 2023, 09:58:03 AM »
On my 500 I was thinking of something cheaper as I have new coils - the Hondaman system sounds very good from what I have read here.
Can't say too much here at the moment but Bryan might have a system in the pipeline for me.
I have the Hondaman set up on my 750K2; it has faultlessly covered 30,000Km and on one set of points! It is easy to fit and has the advantage that if it stops working, you can simply disconnect it, reconnect the points and off you go. (Has never happened)
48
« on: March 08, 2023, 09:52:24 AM »
Hello Martin,
here's some photos of my F1 equipped with a Givi mono rack and wing racks, secured using their universal fitting kit.
Hope this helps
Regards
Skoti.
P.S.
I've still got an original Tower carrier rack but don't want to part with it for as long as I own the F1.
Hi Skoti, A slightly different issue, but still related to touring. What is the screen you have mounted on the F1, and how well does it work?
49
« on: February 14, 2023, 09:36:09 AM »
Another question.
The new wiring loom has a plastic "sock" for the rear connectors to the brake light and indicators.
Is this "sock" supposed to locate up through the rear frame above the rear mudguard? Anyone got a picture?
My old loom didn't have one.
Many thanks
Here's a pic that might help
50
« on: February 14, 2023, 09:28:24 AM »
This problem is not specific to Hondas, though I've never experienced it. Triumph Bonnevilles were/are notorious for this; I have experienced this. Here's some advice from the Triumphrat.net forum: Start the bike, pull in the clutch lever and rev it from idle 4 or 5 times and then shut it down. Now pull in the clutch and kick it to confirm that the clutch has been broken free. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I've gotten so I do this on all my electric start only bikes as well and that first shift into first is just a snick instead of a clunk or bang. Might help, and apparently avoids/prevents that horrible crunching sound you get sometimes when trying to engage 1st.
51
« on: February 14, 2023, 09:14:42 AM »
The attached pic from the 400F Setup Manual may help:
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That cable guide on the horn is called "Clamp, Clutch Wire" in the parts fiche, but from the pic it seems the throttle cables go through there too.
52
« on: December 21, 2022, 07:19:37 PM »
I used lots of heat, a cold chisel and a 2lb hammer. It took ages and the inner surface was well scratched at the end, but this was sorted out with a Dremel.
A mate showed me a good way to get the lower shock bushes out, using a couple of sockets and a vice. Posted for anyone else who might find this a novel approach.
53
« on: December 14, 2022, 08:30:42 AM »
Hi,
I'm looking for a KPH speedo to cannibalise to repair my existing speedo.
It's for a CB750 K2; so rhino horn mounting and with trip meter knob underneath.
External appearance not important.
Cheers
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54
« on: November 30, 2022, 06:25:41 PM »
It's a bit late, but in case anyone else is looking, 400fourbits has another cable listed under Misc Parts as "JJ - 325 CENTRE STAND SPRING - SOLID & SERVICEABLE." https://www.400fourbits.co.uk/#miscIt's certainly not a spring, so either the description or the photo is incorrect.
55
« on: November 23, 2022, 09:21:43 PM »
On my 400 I powder coated all the previously chromed cycle parts. Looks pretty good - in my opinion - and much cheaper.
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56
« on: September 20, 2022, 10:07:49 AM »
I have a considerable leak from my points cover - CB750 K2/4. Having read related posts it seems the issue is either the crankshaft seal or the o-ring on the advancer shaft or both. O-ring replacement is relatively easy, but there is debate as to whether the seal, which has an outer lip, can be replaced without splitting the cases. Now FASTURD posted on the US site on his similar experience a while back and concluded with this: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,71635.msg868522.html#msg868522 - Go down to post No 22. Having just replaced the head gasket, I do not want to take the engine out again, so I am going to try to check where the leak is coming from and then if necessary try to replace the seal with a non-lipped one as described above. I can get a seal with the correct dimensions, one single-lipped and the other with two lips - internal I think. The second lip is I believe a dust seal. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords1=30&keywords2=42&keywords3=8&Does it matter which one I use and if so which one should I go for?
57
« on: June 14, 2022, 12:11:28 PM »
I once bought a 400four that needed a lot doing to get it going. After a week of fettling, it was time to test it. The battery wasn't up to much in the way of spinning the engine so a mate offered to assist. My road had bit of a downhill slope to it, which helped.
Sitting astride the bike, in 2nd, clutch in, my mate pushing for all his worth, I let the clutch out and.....
Huh? What?
I hadn't refitted the chain 😀
Laughed out loud! Who hasn’t done something similar?
58
« on: April 07, 2022, 09:52:29 PM »
Fully agree with above comments.
Peter Horton does an excellent job at a very reasonable cost.
59
« on: February 12, 2022, 09:43:43 AM »
Thanks.
I had a look on EBay and found this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253750348091?hash=item3b14b3093b:g:Eh0AAOSwT9FbSPcd
It's cheaper and gives more options it seems. Hope it works too!
Well it didn't work! The inner part kept falling out which was annoying, but the main issue was the socket wouldn't;t fit properly into the exhaust valve openings - it was too thick. I sent it back and a little yellow tool is now on its way.
60
« on: February 12, 2022, 09:41:19 AM »
I was looking to rechrome all the shiny bits on my 400F. The quote was well over £1,000!
After much soul searching, I decided that since I wasn't going for perfection, I would get everything powder coated instead. The cost for all the (ex)shiny stuff and the black stuff was a mere(!) £400.
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Maybe not for the purist, but good enough to ride.
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