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Messages - beemsquar
61
« on: July 22, 2015, 11:24:25 AM »
Cheers for the replies guys.
I read ManicGTI's post, very interesting, possibly the same problem, maybe I should have checked the compression first? Tom I see your point about hex heads, I think a new bolt set might be more fitting to a classic build. I would like to keep the engine as original as possible, I think I might even shy away from painting it yet and just get it blasted, so many decisions!
I haven't checked the pistons for oversize markings yet, but I will do when I finish work later.
I'm going to try and split the crankcase later so I can make a full shopping list of parts. I was reading Royhalls experience on here last night about getting the right colour main bearing shells, lets hope I don't need black ones!
You never know the bottom end could be fine, here's to hoping anyway.
As for the exhausts and mufflers, if anyone has either of these or others on there bikes I would love to see a video clip to hear the differences!
I think the sound is as important as the aesthetics.
I don't want anything too loud, but a bit of low growl would be nice!
62
« on: July 21, 2015, 10:02:38 PM »
Wow that's a massive difference in price! And a 10 year guarantee. Where did you see that deal Chris? Motad's website shows no price and possibly out of stock.
63
« on: July 21, 2015, 07:07:57 PM »
Bryanj, thats good to know thats normal looking, I've never had to do this before to know the difference.
Chris, I have that part book in PDF so I may as well print it for now and save some pennies for engine parts! Its a good manual though and has helped me identify some of the parts I'm missing so far.
I just had a closer look at the cam and the cylinder head and the cam tolerances are just within the wear limits according to the clymer manual, but I might just replace it to be sure.
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It also looks like a new head might be in order as the cam bearings are very deeply scored as you can see in this picture.
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If I went down the acquiring a used head, would I have to get it skimmed to match the block face?
64
« on: July 21, 2015, 04:51:55 PM »
The crankcase has packing washers on every bolt too! I will definitely replace all the bolts with new and clean up all the internal threads, possibly buy a full stainless steel hex set or just ordinary bolt set. At least that way I won't have any issues when I come to torque everything up and I know i've done the best I can. I might try and print the parts list off at work tomorrow as I agree, it's much easier to thumb the pages then read on a laptop with oily hands. Tom, that looks a reasonable price for a full set of pistons, I was looking at this on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391177502510?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITAny ideas why the gudgeon pins would look like that and the piston ring disintegrated on removing the block? I didn't test the cylinder pressure before I dismantled as I didn't have the tool to do it and had already bought a shed load of specialist tools and hardly any parts for the bike at that point, wish I had now just to have some more info. So how can I tell if it's already had a rebore? Someones clearly had the head off at some point and maybe the block, not sure what signs to look for, It looks pretty clean inside for its age and all things considered. I've only tinkered on old cars in the past and they have always been a lot worse inside, especially the Triumph Spitfire I restored a few years back, but that turned out alright in the end, hopefully this will too, maybe just more money than I first anticipated.
65
« on: July 21, 2015, 03:34:37 PM »
Day 21
Cheers for the advice saisei, I will check out the link and have a think about the exhausts, they do look good!
Today I wanted to get the pistons off the conrods and measure and inspect everything before I go any further.
I removed the pistons again not as hard as I thought, but when I removed the gudgeon pins they felt slightly ridged and marked, is this normal wear or a thrashed motor?
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I measured all the pistons and bores (with my cheap digital calipers mind), they were all slightly out from each other but the worst measurements were these....
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I am going by a clymer and haynes manual, but from what they recommend, I think I could be in for a set of oversized pistons and a rebore?! Not what I wanted to hear.
There is also a slight gouge down bore number 2 that I couldn't get in a photo, so what are the options for me guys? By a used block and pistons or rebore and replace with oversized? What sort of cost am I looking at?
The other thing I had two pistons marked with the number 4 and 2 marked number 3, is that normal??? All four were original honda mind, thought maybe they were already oversized???
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So thats where I'm at at the moment, I was going to split the crank and order a gasket set, replacement stainless steel bolts and all the engine seals today, but I might wait and see what responses I get first!
66
« on: July 21, 2015, 03:12:05 PM »
Day 20
So I removed the Rocker cover yesterday and found this nasty surprise, just plain lazy if you ask me!
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It removed OK, but will need replacing. when I get to put this back together should I replace the copper washers?
I removed the sprocket, cam chain slipper and tensioner and then proceeded with the removal of the head, which was surprisingly simple and got my first site of the pistons a little cruddy, but I was expecting worse, I guess it's been running too rich???
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I proceeded with the removal of the block yesterday as I want to clean everything in one go so again it came off quite easily.
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As soon as the block was off piston number four gave up a piston ring to the crankcase! Definitely about time this thing had a tear down!
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67
« on: July 21, 2015, 02:50:27 PM »
Day 17 to 19
I have now removed the engine from the frame, which was not fun on my own!
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I'm not sure this is normal but , I struggled to remove the front engine bracket as there were a stack of washers on the crankcase bolts that made those bolts and the bracket bolts so close I couldn't get a spanner on them. should this have been like this?
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And while I was taking that picture I noticed this!!!!
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Not sure if this is fixable or not???
The last few days I have been slowly working on dismantling the engine, ready for a deep clean and overhaul, I sprayed all the bolts with a penetrating liquid over a few days. I started to remove the rocker cover when snap! the first bolt I touched with hardly any pressure broke off in the head, there are screws and bolts on my rocker cover and I'm unsure if that is standard or other bodge on this poor old girl??? But the inevitable happened and a screw also snapped in the head with the lightest of turns.
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Hopefully they can be drilled out!!
Cheers for the link Chris, I will have a look at that good to keep your options open.
I looked at an original on 400fourbits, so might get an original used one yet, He's got a lot of parts I need so might doing a bulk order soon!
68
« on: July 21, 2015, 01:31:09 PM »
Day 6 to 17Lots of stripping and cleaning parts the last 2 weeks, I've got a box of bits off to the media blaster, but he's doing it as a favour so nothing back as of yet. Heres a few before blasting. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] I bought some Jizer and clutch cleaner to clean the engine, it has made some difference but it was very dirty. I think this bike must have been used off road as it was thick with mud! I'm thinking of powdercoating the crankcase, (not the block as I have put in another thread!) so it needs to be super super clean to prevent peeling later. I contacted simple green who make an environmentally friendly cleaner/degreaser that the aviation and medical industry use that is tough enough to strip an engine but kind enough to clean food equipment It's pricey though, I bought 3 946 ml bottles with 1 free for £37.99 inc delivery, but for degreasing an engine you dilute it 1:10 with water, so I figure its not that bad. I got it from here, I'll let you all know how I get on with it. http://www.simplegreen.co.uk/index.php/domestic-productsTime to start on removing the engine next while I wait for parts.
69
« on: July 21, 2015, 01:14:29 PM »
Thats not a bad price Tom, I think David Silver is more than that for a complete system. Although I am not going completely original, I don't want to stray to far down the wrong path, the whole reason I got a 400 four was the way it looked and what I've heard about being fun to ride, I love the standard exhaust look too, something special.
I'm only 32, but have always appreciated classics over modern stuff, there's something about how temperamental they are that appeals to me and I think that's what gives them character. Sure its nice to just turn something on and go, but when you have to get your hands dirty and truly understand what and why something isn't doing what it's supposed to, it makes it more rewarding when it does.
That and the shear seat of your pants experience you get with old stuff!
I've never ridden a real motorbike before, only a DT50 from the age of 16-18, I passed my theory test last Friday and have my training and test for my A licence in September, so the plan is to get her built over the winter ready for shakedown test and running in in the spring.
70
« on: July 21, 2015, 12:58:35 PM »
Day 3,4,5
I ordered the special tool and removed the bearing retainer caps, a pig of a job as they were loctited in, I did as others have mentioned and drilled out the stakes, which helped massively! well worth the £38 they cost to buy in my opinion. I ordered new retainer parts as I thought they might get pretty chewed up in the removal process, so I will replace these too.
The hubs have now had the bearings removed, I have cleaned all the internals and hub axles too. I have got an Allballs bearing and dust seal kit, o rings to install both back and front and Ferodo rear brake shoes to fit, but first I am sending the hubs off to be powder coated before I install the bearings.
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Bolts before and after being wire wheeled
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In the meantime I have been cleaning all the wheel components ready for assembly as unfortunately the media blaster guy is away on holiday for a week so they can't be painted until then.
71
« on: July 21, 2015, 12:28:53 PM »
Day 2Ok while stipping her down I had noticed a few things, the front headlamp is off a suzuki, and while inspecting the exhaust it is blown on two downpipes and on the collector box, and there is no muffler! How did I miss that. There's a chunk of my budget gone already  Ash from this forum had kindly sent me a dropbox link with a parts list, which I have been going through in the evenings to see what I'm missing and the list is getting longer! I was originally going to restore to factory condition using all genuine parts, but I'm not sure my budget will stretch that far. It seems the old girl has had a harder life than I first thought. I think I might modify it into a cafe racer/brat style bike, still using the best original parts with some OEM stuff now. Ok wheel job today, the PO had just had the original rims chromed, but it was a terrible job and flaking off already, so Ive decided to get them blasted and possibly powder coated satin black? They don't look bad in this but they are pretty crap in person. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Here's the hubs once removed [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
72
« on: July 21, 2015, 12:12:16 PM »
Cheers tom400f, i'm not to far along with it yet, and have already ran into a few problems, I guess all is to be expected with an old bike.
Hopefully I can keep a good momentum going!
73
« on: July 21, 2015, 12:09:57 PM »
Day 1
Ok I got it home, pulled her out the back of the van down the ramp with no brakes attached and the bloody back wheel fell off nearly squashing me underneath!
Luckily my neighbour was passing and helped me carry it into the garage.
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Let the work commence!
I got to stripping it down straight away, I had already ordered and received a haynes manual and a clymer manual for the process and started taking LOTS of pictures so I now where things go later.
By the end of day 1 it looked like this.
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on closer inspection there were a few problems emerging, 1.the side stand had been badly repaired and was welded at the wrong angle so the bike is leaning excessively. I will sort this out at a later date once the frame is stripped. 2.the centre stand has been hacked off and is in one of the boxes of bits!
I decided that once I had removed and stored some of the frame components, I would rebuild the original wheels that he supplied with the bike as my first big job, so I could work out the stance of the bike and sort that stand angle out!
74
« on: July 21, 2015, 11:40:07 AM »
Hi all, This is my first ever motorcycle build and I thought I would share the journey with the community as you have been very helpful with your advice and maybe it will help others doing similar projects.
I acquired the vehicle on the 03/07/15 from an old guy who had had it since 2012 and had started to do some jobs on it, (badly as it turns out).
It read 46000 on the odometer and looked like this in the advert.
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I went to see the bike and it was already partly dismantled with what I think are constar wheels? off another bike.
I spent a good hour looking over it to see if the major bits were there, the guy started it up and it sounded OK, apart from blowing from the exhaust, which he told me was because they weren't tightened up yet. He assured me that he had acquired a lot of parts and everything was there. Knowing that I wanted a project bike that needed some TLC we haggled and I took her off his hands for £900.
I've set myself a loose budget of £1000 to rebuild and no more than 10 months to complete so I can ride it next summer.
I plan on doing most if not all the work myself , but might need some advice and guidance along the way.
75
« on: July 18, 2015, 06:24:13 PM »
I agree, my dad said the same thing. The casings and head etc are being painted in a high temp satin black paint for that very reason.
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