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Messages - Waggles
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61
« on: July 29, 2013, 09:21:00 AM »
As Bryan says the more oil the better both for cooling and time between oil changes. If the new tank is a standard CB750 one then you should be OK but if its smaller than standard I would reduce the time between oil changes.
Another thing to consider is the scavenge side of the oil pump has a greater capacity than the supply side to ensure the dry sump is dry, this means the oil returning to the tank has air in it. this froths out as the oil sinks down in the tank. Too small an oil tank may give a risk of the oil still having air in it when it hits the supply side which wouldn't be good.
As for the vent, its there for a reason! I have never tried this but I would imagine the tank might pressurise a bit and this might be a problem with the air in the oil not being able to bubble out so easily perhaps. Think it would be safer to fit a vent, perhaps in the cap? Try running the bike then immediately removing the cap to see if there is any pressure there, if not, perhaps the cap already has a vent?
62
« on: July 09, 2013, 07:20:22 AM »
As a matter of interest I changed mine for braided HEL lines for my rebuild as the originals looked old and 'crazed'. I investigated further by cutting the old ones and I seriously doubt they were in any way impaired, very well made as you say. Not sure what an MOT man would say though.
I think the braided lines give a slightly firmer feel but its not dramatic, would be happy to replace mine with standard if they needed it.
63
« on: July 04, 2013, 07:27:40 AM »
Good luck. That particular trim being plain 'chrome' would be a prime candidate for replacement by the old mini plastic strip Bryan suggested. It may be a bit wide but with a bit of trimming should do the job
64
« on: July 03, 2013, 07:55:41 AM »
Think you may have to restore its Zing! Not sure whether you mean the long strip under the seat / tail unit or the one around the rear light? doesn't make a lot of difference tho as I am afraid a lot of F1 specific parts are no longer available, those trim strips included according to CMSNL. I also found the chrome grabrail under the seat to be unobtainium too.
My only suggestion is to look around auto restorers ( Like Frosts perhaps? ) who may have some generic strip that is similar and could be used. If all else fails I am sure you could find some edge strip to cover the raw edge.
65
« on: July 02, 2013, 07:12:20 AM »
Agree with all the previous. 100,000 miles + is possible if well looked after and regular oil changes, only problem is you won't know how a 50,000 miler has been treated. Go for one with as low a mileage as you can find ( Waggles, specialist subject the bleedin obvious ) and as long as the chains seem OK ( no untoward noises ) you should be OK. Try to guess the way the motor has been treated by the rest of the bike.
My F1 is low mileage ( nearly 8,000 now! ) but is used everyday ( for 2 years ) and I find it an extremely practical and reliable bike. I have to say I am a confirmed F1-o-phile as I prefer the looks ( but know I am in the minority there and I do covet four pipes! ) and she performs like a K0, only thing I would say is as there are far fewer F1s around some parts ( like front brake caliper ) are now unavailable as there is less demand than for say a 400 four where they have been remanufactured.
I have seen a few 750s with around 20 - 25,000 on the clock so if you are lucky ........
66
« on: July 01, 2013, 07:08:32 AM »
In answer to your second question, there is no cure I'm afraid 
67
« on: June 27, 2013, 07:56:48 AM »
I think all Li based battery packs contain circuitry and heat sensors to prevent overcharging etc but I don't think I would connect one to a bikes charging circuit, wouldn't trust it ( even tho my gentlemans sausage is only used for test the temperature of welding torches these days  )
68
« on: June 21, 2013, 10:13:22 AM »
Didn't take any offence at all mate, us 'challenged in years' have earnt the right to do and say bloody anything in my book.
14 hour nights, jeez, couldn't do that, I dof my crash helmet to you
69
« on: June 20, 2013, 07:17:53 AM »
I did say 'Put simply' Bryan
70
« on: June 19, 2013, 07:38:41 AM »
I concur. Put simply the alternator has 3 output coils which all put out the same output, so it doesn't matter which goes to which, the rectifier turns them all from AC to DC the the regulator switches them in and out of circuit as required by the load on the circuit.
71
« on: June 18, 2013, 07:26:17 AM »
They're all like that! No, seriously, firstly it depends on what you are comparing it to. When compared to a modern bike the brakes are, um, 'retardationally challenged'. There will be no way you will be doing two fingered 'stoppies' on these bikes, and in the wet you had better keep applying it well in advance and feathering it occasionally to clear the water. All that said, if I grab a serious handful on my F1 in the dry she stops pretty quickly, 'Satisfactory' is about the best I can say, certainly a mile better than my old SLS front drummed Triumph 500 speed twin I used to own! Most usual problem is a seized caliper carrier arm, this needs to be free to swivel or you will not get full brake power, braided brake hoses definitely help, apart from that you will then need to strip clean and renovate the master cylinder and caliper to ensure nothing else is seized ( or partially so ) Can't comment much on different pads as I am still on my first set, but am considering changing them due to the squeal rather than lack of power If all that fails then consider uprating the brakes!
72
« on: June 06, 2013, 07:21:45 AM »
Had similar problems with a pattern cable ( and pattern throttle cables too )
Genuine OEM cables are more expensive but they fit and are well made, plus you shouldn't be buying them too often.
73
« on: June 03, 2013, 07:08:23 AM »
Personally I would return everything to stock including air filter but assuming you want to continue with the ram pipes your plan to clean and set needles back to centre groove seems the best way forward. Remember that the main jets have little affect until around 3/4 throttle so I would start from centre groove and see how you go.
Must get to the island one year, never been so I'll add it to my bucket list
74
« on: May 30, 2013, 07:33:43 AM »
I think, as has already been said, that regular useage is key. Modern fuels evaporate more quickly and leave sticky residues that you can't see. Regular 'washing' with fresh fuel ( ie regular use ) helps a lot. When I first got my F1 on the road being a 'Born again biker' of, er, mature status I took things carefully, used it only a little when it was dry (ish) and experienced similar problems and smells of petrol in the garage. Now I use her daily all seems cured.
Can't help wondering whether teflon coated needles / seats would help for those who can't use daily? no idea if such things are available or possible but maybe a different type of float needle would be an idea? I have seen some with metal tips and others with rubber like tips over the years, are there others?
75
« on: May 10, 2013, 07:15:17 AM »
Annuver little tip with any stuck screws / bolts, use heat. I use a blowlamp, have seen people use welding torch but I don't recommend that as its too easy to damage the part(s) if you don't know what you are doing.
+1 with Bitsa on using a T- handle driver ( or similar )
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