This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
Pages: 1 ... 408 409 [410] 411 412 ... 429
6136
« on: November 06, 2020, 09:37:44 AM »
Mac... my only comment is that you specify the type of head you need. I bought an expensive ‘restoration ’ / tailored set of fastenings for my 750, only to find they were all hex (Allen key) drives. I was **ssed off and wrote back asking how they were ‘restoration’ quality, but never got my £s back and now have oodles of SS hex fastenings.
I see the advantages of a SS hex head over JIS but not as you infer for restoration nay concourse quality. The hex head seems to get a lot of negatives on here.
6137
« on: November 05, 2020, 04:10:36 PM »
Oh I see - I was only joking!
lol I knew that my bad for not being more specific as to the bike type. He can reach some pretty unnerving speeds on downhill descents.
6138
« on: November 05, 2020, 12:38:53 PM »
My brothers bike is the type with 531 frame and pedals.
6139
« on: November 05, 2020, 11:51:28 AM »
I have a lifetimes accumulation of nuts, bolts, washers,spacers etc all A/F thread with even a few Whitworth & BSP.
Whenever I need a nut or bolt for the Honda I only have a selection I bought from Aldi few of which fit even though they are metric
E-bay sell SS selections for £45 !!.
Can anyone recommend a selection pack for my garage that would be useful in my time of need?
6140
« on: November 05, 2020, 08:00:27 AM »
I have to really admire the skill of the members here who lace their own wheels. When riding at say 70 mph I would have that little bit of my brain thinking - did I tighten them all properly? It's the same part of my brain that holds all my what if fears in check - well mostly anyways.
That said I personally draw the line at some DIY skills - I don't weave my own Wicker Baskets or spin my own Cotton - I will buy the skill of wheel building - nay the Art Form that is wheel building when needed from the likes of Central Wheel Components.
As a result of the various posts here on wheel building I have tried to convince my younger brother (62) that he should build his own bike wheels so far without success.
6141
« on: November 05, 2020, 07:50:21 AM »
I used a Vernier Gauge courtesy of Aldi that I bought from the Man aisle about 5 years ago - I finally got to use it for something useful.
Humans & their Gadgets eh.lol
6142
« on: November 04, 2020, 03:37:45 PM »
Trigger is your man for the best way forward.
6143
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:42:50 AM »
6144
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:41:29 AM »
That's what I call a fizzer joke the humour builds up over time as the penny drops - love it! 
6145
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:39:27 AM »
This is my left side part engine cover that hides the starter motor and front chainwheel gear etc.  before by Teddy Bagshaw, on Flickr This is the paint finish after stripping and rubbing down with 1200 grit. Just needs oven baking tomorrow when I can use the oven more freely if you get my drift.  after by Teddy Bagshaw, on Flickr
6146
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:29:55 AM »
TBH I think chrome mudguards like the wire wheels are part of the beauty of retro bikes.
PS I'm not a purist.
6147
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:17:02 AM »
If the headlamp shell is made of plastic you need a flexible paint for plastics or it will crack badly over time.
The flexible paints tend to be quite expensive - not sure if they are available in rattle cans. I would use a local automotive firm who paint bumper sensors they will match any paint code and are not as pricey as you might think.
In Derby we have Chartwells a high end vehicle repairers as well as a variety of Smart Mobile Repairers that paint plastic bumpers etc on a regular basis.
6148
« on: November 03, 2020, 08:41:11 PM »
I would rock the bike gently from side to side as you switch on the fuel - this might avoid unnecessary flooding due to the float needles being slightly stuck in the down position if the floats are dropped down from the normal position.
I was on the verge of taking my carbs off when they flooded on my first try to run the engine - did the side rocking and all was good - they have not flooded since - its easy to jump to conclusions about the cause of flooding especially if you have re-set float levels or done a carb strip down.
I checked my cold compressions after 12 years of not running - the good thing was they were all pretty much the same a not very inspiring 80 psi with the inlets plugged up!
After unplugging the inlets I tried to check the compressions again first two read 110 psi - then the gauge broke - it was a 50 year old Crypton Unit with a cracked housing and the rubber tapered end fell to bits! I plan to check them again with a cheap unit I bought on e-bay for £10.99 - the kit is better than I expected for the price.
My late fathers doctrine was don't check compressions if you do not have a problem as you will always be disappointed in the result!
True compression test is when the engine is up to running temperature of course.
6149
« on: November 01, 2020, 11:34:37 PM »
I'm awaiting delivery of a set of front & rear wheel hubs I've bought on e-bay for the 400/4.
I wonder if a trip to Central Wheel Components could be classed as an essential journey assuming of course that they are open for business next week.
6150
« on: November 01, 2020, 11:26:20 PM »
Pages: 1 ... 408 409 [410] 411 412 ... 429
|
Show Posts
