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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
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6436
« on: September 28, 2020, 06:00:57 PM »
Old Bed frames - I love the recycling !!
6437
« on: September 28, 2020, 05:59:35 PM »
Im using the cheap final drive chain from Silvers. Had on for about 7k miles now of not so slow, not so ladylike riding and its still got plenty of life in it. 😁😁 Whatever you do, don't go for O ring or X ring modern type chains as they are too wide.
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part_28475/
On that basis assuming they have the same supplier I'll go for the cheaper version it will take me 5 years to do 7k of summer dry weather only miles. Do you have an opinion on the dearer rear sprocket?
6438
« on: September 28, 2020, 05:56:32 PM »
Yes , remove cover by your left foot when sitting on bike and it's right there.
Don't know about other's, but I do the bolts dry with a spot of blue lock tight to secure. They're not concentric with shaft rotation so not likely to fidget out, but because they're hidden in use then better to make sure they stay there.
I like that idea must get some Blue Locktight for stock not had any for decades now.
6439
« on: September 28, 2020, 04:02:58 PM »
I like the look of the expensive rear drive sprocket on the DS website that incorporates the chain guard so am wondering what chain to go for the Honda Genuine Chain at £37.19 plus VAT looks a competitive price - are there better brands out there ?
My new plan on the build is to at least get a chain on so I can see if the gears appear to be okay.
No doubt the clutch will be stuck so I guess that will have to come out and be replaced after 12 years of standing.
6440
« on: September 28, 2020, 03:56:03 PM »
The plate has a match to the shaft form "castellation" that you push on until it gets to a groove in the shaft, that groove allows you to now rotate the plate about 20degree so it won't now float along the shaft.
The bolts now hold the plate in that orientation so that both it and the sprocket are prevented from sliding inward or outward.
It's very simple but effective and easily seen if you have all the components ready to assemble, but a bit puzzling if the plate is missing.
That makes sense - my plate is missing as are the screws - I have now looked on the DS website using a Honda Part Number - the plate is priced at £2.20 plus VAT 23811-292-000 the bolts are also listed 92101060200B I think. Am I right that I will need to remove the right hand side cover thingy to access the output shaft ?
6441
« on: September 28, 2020, 03:14:24 PM »
For some reason when I bought my Honda the chain and rear sprocket were amongst a box of loose parts.
The sprocket shows signs of wear so I will fit a replacement - looking at where it fits I can see the output shaft from the gearbox has a sort of square/hex type spline to it but how does the gear attach to the shaft as its a narrow gear with a square/hex type splined fitting.
The Haynes Manual shows a plate with a couple of screws that fit into the gear but what keeps it in position on the output shaft as the area seems quite wide is there some sort of end lock nut?
To fit a new gear do I have to remove the left had side plate thingy?
6442
« on: September 28, 2020, 03:06:41 PM »
Why is there no V5 how can the seller prove he even owns it, has a legitimate title to the bike, that it is not stolen or an insurance write off ?
No rear photo showing a registration mark?
6443
« on: September 28, 2020, 08:59:46 AM »
Whilst on hol in Cornwall the 400s reg/rec failed cooking the battery and blowing several bulbs luckily with only one day to go before we returned home. Not wanting to pay the thick end of £200 for another i opted for a no doubt Chinese lookee likee. This gets quite hot. Now I would expect it to get warm but no idea as to how warm, never having had reason to touch the original one when in operation. So for a couple of quid i have put a fan on it and it now works much cooler which i would think can only be a good thing.
(Attachment Link)
I like it great lateral thinking- where did you source the fan is it a PC unit?
6444
« on: September 27, 2020, 09:26:35 PM »
Thanks Trigger I am glad I waited for them to arrive.
Pistons and cylinder block back on, used new rings and gudgeon clips.
Then got the engine back in the frame whilst it is still relatively light, did the frame over the engine thing which worked really well and I didn't scratch the frame!
(Attachment Link)
One of those bottles of Yellow Tail has my name on it tonight!
Using all new nice shiny fixings -
(Attachment Link)
Finish off cylinder head next and get the rest of the engine assembled
Wow that's a "better than new" looking engine in your photos - very nice.
6445
« on: September 27, 2020, 09:20:51 PM »
What's the difference between Vegas and Wuhan? What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. 
6446
« on: September 27, 2020, 05:55:08 PM »
Multi cylinder Hondas are better built than old brit stuff and when you release the head bolt tension you also release the clamping force on the base, when you wiggle the head off chances are you move the cylinders a bit so the base gasket will leak.
I dont understand your question about pistons, you cant do anything to them without removing cylinders first
[/quote
Not sure what my question was now about the pistons either as NJs post answered it anyway.
Today I fired her up for a few minutes then checked that oil was reaching the valves etc. As I was replacing one of the tappet cover caps I was reminded how hot front pipes get! Nice little burn mark on my right little finger..... all the Missus Wendy did was laugh at my stupidity.
6447
« on: September 27, 2020, 12:06:08 AM »
Base gasket NOT head gasket 
Just pull the barrels off, you won't find a dead body under them 
I am confused if I understand you right if you remove the cylinder head you also have to replace the base gasket by removing the barrels - can you remove the barrels with the pistons in place or do you have to then when replacing the base gasket then somehow get the pistons back in place surely not from the bottom? On cars I have only put pistons back in from the top of the engine block? On the one hand I can see the benefits of checking the condition of the pistons by removing them but if compression is good, oil consumption is okay why run the risk of breaking a ring when you put them back? Forgive me if I sound thick but back in prehistoric times when I was a teenager I have done a few bike cylinder head removals for decoking etc but never removed the barrels. Maybe that's why my old Triumph 21 always leaked oil !! Ignore my question above I've just read NJ's rebuild section circa P25 and seen the brilliant photos - made me gulp a bit! I'm very impressed with the cleaning & engine assembly posts.
6448
« on: September 26, 2020, 02:53:09 PM »
Welcome to this wonderful community there are some very knowledgeable members her.
Looks a tidy bike as I am not a purist - the seat looks okay to me!
You should see the headlamp I'm planning to fit to my CB400F2 in the spring - I'll be called a heretic by some.
Back in the 1970's I made my Mk1 Austin Mini 1275 Cooper S look like the Mk2 by changing the front grille, bumpers & rear lights - sacrilege now of course. lol Not forgetting that I sold her for £425 whereas today even rough ones fetch over £20k.
6449
« on: September 26, 2020, 10:42:32 AM »
If you have pulled the head off you, would of disturbed the base gasket and you will need to remove the barrels to change that
So to fix a blown head gasket involves removing the pistons anyway - I didn't realise that on my Honda. That is food for thought. Can you remove the barrels with the pistons in place by undoing the con rod caps or is that more trouble than it's worth Trigger? Thanks Ted PS I will always have a Plan C - that would be to pay to get the engine professionally rebuilt.
6450
« on: September 26, 2020, 09:57:55 AM »
I think once you remove the rocker cover and inspect the cam and rocker condition they will provide a good indication of how the engine has been previously looked after. The top end of the engine is what suffers most when oil and filter changes have been neglected.
Once you remove the head to inspect the pistons and bores you will really know what you have on your hands. Any signs of rust/scoring etc will point to a full stripdown. As a minimum I would remove the sump pan to check the primary chain, cam chain tensioner horseshoe and the tensioner plunger. The contents of the sump pan will also provide a good indication of the state of the engine.
Read Julies rebuild thread for a good example of what may be lurking around the piston area as an excellent example of how to inspect the engine and what may be lurking within.
Not to worry if you find various nasties, lots of help and advice on here. I sense a nice winter rebuild coming on....................
Good luck 
Dave
I like the suggested starting points though I am loath to remove pistons from a bore if there is no obvious piston damage, bore scoring or top lip. I would have been in a position to do the engine strip whilst the frame is being powder coated following full strip down - this was planned for this year. Rather than trying to rush the engine removal before I have my surgery that's scheduled within 21 days I will have to just leave things until after Christmas. My BIL has offered to help but really I want to do it all myself as its potentially challenging then rewarding taking it apart. It will be difficult having the restraint not to get on with some of the easier jobs.
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