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Messages - adriangsmith
76
« on: May 06, 2016, 06:37:30 AM »
Hi All,
Thanks for the replies and advice,
That jet was definitely blocked with some gasket debris. now kicking myself for not ensuring all was clean.
Took all top end apart and now decided on a full rebuild of the engine as detected some play in the main bearings.
More work and new territory for me as never done any bottom end work on an engine before!
Still looking for a replacement cam tower and camshaft ready for the rebuild if anyone has one lying around in a box of spares!
Heres hoping for better luck this time round.
77
« on: May 03, 2016, 06:40:59 AM »
Thanks all.
Will check these out this evening.
78
« on: May 02, 2016, 08:24:23 PM »
Hi all,
I've had to strip my engine down (750 F2) as it got a little warm and i thought had partially seized whilst i was syncing the carbs and tweaking the mixture settings.
So engine out of bike, cam cover off and the right hand side of the camshaft was bone dry.
removed and cam tower and end of cam shaft have worn away and torn each other up.
continued top end strip down and found no further signs of damage.
however there are some metal fragments in the sump pan so think a full strip down is needed now to find the cause.
so gutted as i was 90% complete on my build.
So my question is where and how does oil enter the top end of the engine? and why would only the right hand end be dry? the rest was well covered with oil and never had the oil pressure light flicker at all during running.
Also now need another camshaft and cam tower. my cam shaft is stamped up R2.
79
« on: April 01, 2016, 04:55:48 PM »
Bad earth was the cause. All sorted now  thanks all!
80
« on: April 01, 2016, 09:32:18 AM »
Thanks all,
A bad earth sounds the most likely issue.
I also will check the condition of the rectifier.
Also what is the small plug in aluminium block located by the indicator relay? some sort of safety diode??
I'll check when i get home tonight.
Fuse box is in good condition.
81
« on: March 31, 2016, 09:47:27 PM »
Yes powdercoat ground back down to bare metal.
Good earth throughout
82
« on: March 31, 2016, 09:32:10 PM »
Hi all,
I've just got round to connecting the electrics back up on my 76 cb750f1 following a strip down and rebuild.
Connected up and all working fine until i tried the electric start button.
Headlight was working and neutral and oil light were on.
The solenoid buzzed / clicked and then all power cut out.
Power returned about 20 seconds later but again went when i pressed the starter button again.
Happenened as above twice more and now i have no power at all.
All fuses are OK.
Earth all OK up to handlebars and ignition switch
Still have power to the fuses but nothing further on.
No headlight or idiot lights.
The starter worked fine before the strip down.
Any ideas??
83
« on: March 18, 2016, 08:07:34 AM »
Hi all,
The kind powder coaters blasted over my data plate when i sent my frame for coating.
I never took a picture of the data plate and as it's on display would like to put the correct one back on there.
Could someone please post a picture of the correct layout.
Thanks in advance.
84
« on: March 15, 2016, 02:29:55 PM »
If it's an oil pressure gauge I'd suggest the bolt below the gauge is a bleed screw to get rid of any air trapped in the line to enable you to get a true reading.
85
« on: March 15, 2016, 10:54:20 AM »
Coppertop is correct. the crankcase breather goes to the oil tank. The top breather goes to the breather housing which is as stated connected to the bottom of the battery box. I also have a pipe coming off the breather housing which oils the chain. Not sure if this is standard or not.
86
« on: March 11, 2016, 04:49:28 PM »
What are the best tyres and sizes for a 750 F2?
i've seen the following sizes listed:
Front 3.25 x 19
front 90/90 19
front 100/90 19
rear
4.0 x 18
110/90 18
Also do they need to be TT or are tubeless fitted with a tube OK?
possibly looking at the Avon road riders or possibly Metzler lasertecs
87
« on: March 09, 2016, 04:44:42 PM »
Thanks for that. Might have seemed a daft question but thought it best to check. Last thing i wanted to do was to button it up, put it back in the frame and then find I'd missed something meaning i had to rip it all out again.
88
« on: March 09, 2016, 11:36:36 AM »
Hi All,
I've just finished the top end rebuild of my 750 F2 engine.
When doing the final adjustment of the tappets i noticed that the adjuster screw is at an angle to the valve stem and creating a wedged gap with the pinch point towards the centre of the engine.
Is this correct or have I fitted something wrong?
It appears to be on all of the valves.
There is no sign of the valve tops being ground to remove mushrooming, all appear to be in good condition.
Picture of head assembly and a crude sketch of the rocker arm and valve below.
89
« on: February 24, 2016, 02:49:03 PM »
Hi All,
I have the engine out of the frame for rebuild and cannot get the clutch nut undone.
The washer tabs are bent out of the way but it refuses to budge.
Any tips to lock it in place so i can get some more pressure on it?
Also is it a standard or left handed thread?
Thanks in advance
Adrian
90
« on: February 22, 2016, 11:05:34 AM »
I had the same issue recently.
Both oil control o rings and the stud o rings were missing from the DS kit.
DS ripped me off for £10 for 4 of the oil control o rings.
I bought the stud orings off ebay as they are now discontinued from honda.
Bit of a poor show when it states full engine gasket kit and the most common use is a top end strip down and these orings are missing.
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