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Messages - Erwin83
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76
« on: March 07, 2020, 10:52:39 AM »
Man, I love this thing. 
77
« on: March 05, 2020, 08:26:37 PM »
Like a glove.
78
« on: March 03, 2020, 11:12:16 PM »
Have you looked into rake/trail for this setup?
Yes. As in.. i know it will change as this new fork is 40mm offset and the CB fork is 60mm offset. How that will affect handling... time will tell. Added: fork is the same length as the CB fork at around 70cm uncompressed. Wheel axle is in the same spot (center of the fork)
79
« on: March 03, 2020, 10:17:36 PM »
For those of you wanting to update the front fork of your CB (in my case a CB350f) with something modern...
A front fork of a KTM Duke 125 / 390 (or RC 125 / 390) is a direct fit.
Just order an extra top stem bearing (30mm ID instead of 26) and you're good to go. You need a 7mm spacer under the bottom stem bearing, but they come supplied in the All Balls kit.
I don't know about clearance towards the tank yet, but technically, it's a direct fit.
Only downside (for some): it's a single brake disc set-up. For my 350, more than enough.
80
« on: February 28, 2020, 06:51:20 PM »
Ian, we already shared some info couple of weeks ago ;-). My office is literally a stone throw distance to your MX5 meet in duiven.
Will PM for personal data.
Cheers!
81
« on: February 28, 2020, 12:10:12 PM »
Hi Erwin,
Just checked and the 350 and 400 are the same length - give or take a mm, but as you know, only the 350 has the grease nipple. I looked through my box of bits and can’t find a 400 one but I do have a spare 350 one complete with cup washers, nut and grease nipple.
If you are not in a rush, I’ll bring it over in May (it’s March tomorrow!) but otherwise I can post it.
Ian
Hi Ian, Absolutely no rush at all. The longer one I have fitted now will keep the swing arm in place just fine. There's certainly more than a couple weeks worth of work on this bike, especially since I don't even own the rest of the missing parts at the moment :
82
« on: February 27, 2020, 09:09:15 PM »
Ok. Would love to hear if you have the right one.
In this case, i can only conclude that indeed it must be from another CB with a wider frame and swingarm pivot. 500f maybe?
Strange because I am certain I only took apart 2x a CB400f...
83
« on: February 27, 2020, 07:28:43 PM »
Ok, that could explain it. than I must have a swing arm axle of an early cb400f. I never had any larger CB's in the garage...
Are these axles rare, or should I just tap thread and cut it shorter?
84
« on: February 27, 2020, 05:58:08 PM »
No, that's on the lower rear engine mount. Couple cm lower.
Also visible on the photo.
Are there CB's where the footpegs attach to the swingarm?
85
« on: February 27, 2020, 04:59:34 PM »
I'm a bit baffled.
I'm putting together a 350f.
While mounting the swing arm, I found the bolt (axle) to be way too long.. How?
I have a lot of CB400f parts laying around, as I parted 2 of them out in the last decade or so, but to my understanding, a CB400f doesn't even have an axle with grease nipples like this, let alone one so much longer.
Diameter (14mm) is spot on for the frame and swingarm by the way.
Any idea what bolt/axle I have here? CB500 potentially?
Lenght is 32,5 cm not counting both grease nipples.
86
« on: February 27, 2020, 08:59:12 AM »
Couldn't find a topic like this, maybe a good place to share good (and bad) experiences. Granted, purists should look away  . (this topic is not intended to discuss whether or not it's a good idea to buy Chinese stuff, there are pro's and con's and every adult can make their own decision)To my experience, Aliexpress sells some good items related to motorcycles (some, not all). Recently, I've had quite a few good 'gambles', especially with my other motorcycles (Aprilia and Moto Guzzi), which I customized quite heavily. Keeps the hobby affordable and most importantly a lot of this stuff is sold by local webshops as well, without any change. I've bought motorcycle lighting (head- read- indicators), mirrors, handle bars, etc. So, I thought it'd be good to share Honda CB related experiences with each other: - Throttle Cables: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000215437713.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.49084c4dvwhm3EAlready fitted, perfect! Blackened at the handle bar side, which I personally find more appealing than chrome. - Kickstarter: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32487777394.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dxGKmgqOrdered, awaiting delivery. Looks almost identical to my original one (with worn out splines). - Coils: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32894384443.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dxGKmgqOrdered, awaiting delivery. Looks identical to the ones I ordered at Wemoto last year and are working great on my finished CB. Not an OEM fit though: different h-h distance between mounting holes, but can be made to fit. Feel free to share your experiences.
87
« on: February 25, 2020, 01:25:30 PM »
Won't oil eventually make its way up the bolt thread and leak out that end?
No, I don't think so. There is space between the nut and the cracked surface, which I filled with Quikmetal. However this space is tight, like 2-3 millimeters, so there was no physical way to patch it and keep the nut 'serviceable'. Drawings are a top view (when laying on your back, looking up under the engine). The Quikmetal patch now forms a layer between the cracked surface and the nut.
88
« on: February 25, 2020, 08:08:41 AM »
Just remember to put the shorter bolt in that side and don't forget the spring washer or you'll be doing the job again.
Yep, the longer bolts have found their way to the bin. Where has the nut gone?
The nut is completely encapsulated by the Quiksteel. The crack is also inside the little nut-area (that's where the long bolt pushes), so in order to have material cover the crack I had to: - Apply the Quikmetal in that tight area, covering all of the crack (mind, my finger doesnt fit there, so I used a small spatula, not ideal). - Push the nut firmly in Quikmetal to avoid risk of the nut not fitting anymore altogether - Screw the engine bolt in to make sure the nut was lined up correctly (all this in 2 minutes) I didn't like the result of this (hard to be sure I had decent coverage), so decided to cover the whole area with the nut inside. Like I said, not the prettiest of solutions, but... so far she's dry.
89
« on: February 24, 2020, 10:56:22 AM »
Quite impressed with the Quiksteel stuff. After mixing the 2 components, there's only 2 minutes before you feel it getting rigid, so there isn't a lot of time to apply it. That makes it a bit harder to get a visibly appealing job done, especially in the tight cravesses around the cooling ribs.
Nevertheless, I think I got it right.
Oh, and before starting to mix the material, of course extensively degreased (and I pulled part of the oil out and the bike with its nose up so there wasn't any new oil coming through). And I rubbed the surface with a hard metal wire brush, so the epoxy had a nice rough and paint-free surface to glue to.
I ended up completely encapsulating the nut of the engine mount bolt, as it was impossible to get a layer of material behind or next to the nut, while maintaining enough space for the nut to be removeable.
Not the prettiest of repairs, but happy if my oil drip is finally solved now for 20 euro's (and half the Quicksteel tube still on stock).
Fingers crossed that my garage floor will remain dry now.
90
« on: February 20, 2020, 10:32:13 AM »
I read that too now! Strange I couldn't find anything while (still a bit shocked) searching on my iPad yesterday evening, and now I read about many people with this issue, caused by long bolts and/or crash bars.
Sourcing new cases is not something I will be doing anytime soon. That will certainly be a multi-year plan.
This bike isn't ever going to change owners anymore (or it will be from me to one of my kids), so for now, I will definitely patch it and as long as I can stop/limit the dripping, I'll leave it be and save the work for a next engine strip down.
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