This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Waggles
Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 21
76
« on: May 08, 2013, 07:26:03 AM »
I use my F1 daily and can confirm I see no fuel problems at all. She gets a bit sulky if left for more than a weekend though, always starts but runs on 2 for a bit. Unsure if this is the fuel itself or whether I have a blocked drain tube or similar so 2 carbs are not filling as quickly as they should, I say this as if I turn the fuel on a few minutes before starting shes a bit better.
77
« on: May 08, 2013, 07:19:13 AM »
+1 on what K2 said. If a carb is flooding it will affect all settings so you need to address that first.
Yes, the needle position is adjustable by setting which groove the holding clip is in, higher groove = weaker mixture and vice versa
78
« on: May 07, 2013, 07:54:25 AM »
I would address float height first and check your float needle valves as it could easily be the carbs flooding. Any good manual will show you setting up the float level ( a picture is worth a thousand words! ) If you leave the petrol on with bike on the sidestand you can get fuel drip when you straighten bike up but generally they shouldn't leak. Although my F1 can occasionally, could be when its hot etc.
As for jets, remember that the main jet doesn't really have any affect until 3/4 throttle! before that its mainly idle jet and slide cutaway up to about 1/4 throttle then the rest is needle jet, so think how you ride before shelling out on jets etc
79
« on: April 24, 2013, 08:12:23 AM »
Agree with above advice. If its a valve related problem you usually get smoke on the overrun even when hot.
80
« on: April 17, 2013, 07:13:37 AM »
Not heard of that one before! assume they were pattern points not OEM?
Know its a bit late now, but if you suspect a coil or condenser etc try swapping them over first and see if the problem swaps sides. ( Can't do that with the points tho! to check them I usually watch for sparks across them )
Sorry, don't need a coil!
81
« on: April 05, 2013, 07:34:41 AM »
Thanks for that link Bryan, answers all my questions! and my comment re US spec was just a little jest on the spelling!
That looks like a good service bytio, was it expensive?
82
« on: April 04, 2013, 07:23:53 AM »
Aha! I spot an opportunity for me to learn something before I need it! I thought the big end shells were colour coded ( color coded for US spec ) and that the colour was on the outside of the shell? If they are numbered any chance of a pic from somone to show what to look for?
Could the numbers on the rods b to identify which cap goes with which rod? ( and perhaps which cylinder the rod goes in? )
83
« on: March 28, 2013, 07:03:02 AM »
I got a stainless one from Wemoto for my F1. Its not identical and the 'lid' and plastic washer can't be fitted but its doing the job. I THINK K7 / F2 are the same as the F1, check the part number on CMS site, if not they may do one suitable.
Have used Phil as well for other parts, very good quality.
84
« on: March 27, 2013, 07:10:52 AM »
Don't have any experience with these systems myself being a confirmed points man ( if it works don't f**k with it is my philosophy ) but that doesn't help you. If its an unstable backplate ( which is a good theory ) you could try temporarily glueing a third lug ( or just a suitable nut or something ) on with JB weld. If it works you could make it more permanent perhaps by drilling through from outside, screwing just below flush then filling and rub down / paint to make it look nice?
If it is the backplate I would imagine it could also be hard to start as it moves about and puts the timing out, is that the case? Have also heard that battery voltage can be critical on electronic systems so I would check yours and perhaps give it a charge
85
« on: March 25, 2013, 07:52:47 AM »
It was a vain attempt to remind us to switch off indicators, back in the day on my original F1 I hated it so much but soon found if you moved the indicator switch back a bit after initial selection there was a point where it shut off but the indicators still worked if I recall, so merrily drove for miles without cancelling indicators no doubt  the buzzer from my recent rebuild is still under the bench and will no doubt stay there!
86
« on: March 18, 2013, 01:15:48 PM »
It could be all the things you have suggested but assuming a standard ignition system a grotty contact is most likely. As Amos says I had trouble with the points wire where it joins the loom ( and I am not alone ) the wire is only just long enough and can pull out quite easily, it will then make and break connections at random due to vibration so you could see a nice spark now but it can fail later. Worth checking. I added a little extension wire to take off the tension.
Have suffered at the hands of Customs too, but hey, how else are they going to keep the subsidised prices in the house of commons bars?
87
« on: March 18, 2013, 01:05:05 PM »
Dunno if its just me, ( if it is, delete this mods! ) but I have always had trouble adjusting the front brake on my 750 F1, the problem is the pads are in contact with the disk and twiddling the adjuster seems to have little affect. You can remove the front wheel and push the moving piston back into the caliper the pop the wheel back on but you run the risk of displacing brake fluid into the reservoir which can overflow and remove paint from your newly refurbed fork yokes, don't ask me how I know  you could also dismantle brake and temporarily remove moving pad. Found an easier way, loosen the two bolts that hold the calipers together, insert a spacer twixt moving pad caliper and the bracket and nip them up, the moving pad is now clear of the wheel ( as long as you don't forget and put the brake on  ) you can adjust the brake using just the static pad then remove spacer and retighten. For the spacer I used the handle part of the toolkit's C spanner. I would caution against tightening the caliper bolts too much with the spacer in place as you might distort something, just enough to prevent play.
88
« on: March 18, 2013, 12:51:28 PM »
I am not sure whether F1 tubes will fit K2 bottoms but I would doubt it. On the F1 the tubes are slightly different ( as you have no doubt seen ) but more importantly the fork bottoms did NOT have bushes, the tube running directly against the alloy ( not a good plan in my book, but I'm stuck with it! Am hoping I can bush my bottoms  - Ooo - er - when they wear out )
89
« on: March 18, 2013, 12:43:45 PM »
Cub 90s are a bit pricey due to the enhanced performance, stick to a 50!
Seriously tho, I sympathise, been there, paid that and have more than 1 t shirt. Us wrinklies gotta have SOME advantage due to getting old tho otherwise its all negative!
90
« on: March 13, 2013, 07:42:59 AM »
Thanks Guys but I do more than 1500 miles. eBike quoted me £154 and oddly this is with the same insurance company I am with via Nash?!? maybe its the wonderful area I live in or lack of no claims that makes mine higher, who knows? The Nash premium is a good one its just this lack of NCD that bugs me, perhaps I should just claim every year only kidding Carole 
Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 21
|
Show Posts