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Messages - mattsz
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76
« on: August 28, 2020, 10:49:03 PM »
Anybody have a particular routine and/or piece(es) of equipment they use to quickly and easily drain the carbs? I just had a terrible time using different size funnels and pieces of plastic bent into troughs to try to direct the fuel flow from the drains to a container - instead of it draining all over the crank cases...
77
« on: August 28, 2020, 10:09:01 PM »
Thanks philward! It's just too bad the drain screw openings don't somehow lead to the overflow hoses for ease of draining. But then I guess if you find fuel coming out the hose(s), you don't know if it's an overflow problem or a drain problem... I did find it challenging to connect the temporary fuel supply and get the fuel flowing with all of my fingers crossed! 
78
« on: August 28, 2020, 09:57:27 PM »
Hi guys -
I've mounted my carbs to the bike just to fill them with fuel to see if all the bowls are filling and to check for leaks - yes, and none... so far.
Noob question: is opening the drain screws supposed to drain the fuel through the overflow hoses, or should the fuel just run out at the drain screws? I'm guessing the latter (which mine are doing) is correct. Sure would be nice and easy if the fuel drained out the hoses, much easier to collect!
79
« on: August 28, 2020, 02:25:14 PM »
Thanks Andy! I'll definitely report back!
The bolt (P/N 95700-08016) is an 8x16 flange bolt - I assume it's the "regular" 1.25mm thread pitch and not the "fine" 1mm thread pitch? I wish part number search results would offer thread pitch info and not just diameter and length...
80
« on: August 28, 2020, 12:09:48 PM »
I checked out my silencer's captive mounting nuts - one is clear, but one binds the bolt as I thread it on by hand. So perhaps it also has some weld spatter in the threads. I don't have a tap to clear the threads, but careful threading of the bolt may be enough to clear it. I emailed DSS here in the USA about the gasket - their reply: Sorry for the issue with the gasket received. Yes this is something we are fully aware of. If you pull out very slightly the slits in the muffler so the gasket fits in, once this has been done you should now be able to a make a perfect seal.
Hmm... they're "aware" of the issue - but their answer appears to be just bend the tabs open and jam everything together. My recollection of the gasket material that came off the collector tells me that this new gasket is longer than the original - I think I'll gather all my components and lay them out to see how to make it work - it might be difficult to use the old parts for comparison, as I had to basically destroy the old silencer to remove it...
81
« on: August 28, 2020, 11:52:26 AM »
Sorry - more questions about the shocks... You may recall the bike came to me with bodged mounting hardware securing the tops of both shocks... http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,17461.msg199015.html#msg199015I'd like to mount the TEC shocks - but I'd like to get an idea of how the original hardware secured the shocks. My parts book shows a simple acorn nut and single washer - officialy, a "WASHER, PLAIN, 10.3MM." Can someone tell me the actual inner and outer diameters, and thickness, of this washer? Is it bigger than the top mount opening that the rubber bushing fits into? On the advice of the TEC guy, I looked at M16 washers to fill in the gaps left by the narrow top mount of the shock, but they seemed way too big for that purpose - both in thickness (3mm) and in OD (30mm!) - nothing like the size provided with MrDavo's shocks (see his pic above). I wanted to find a spacer thin enough that I could use one on each side of the mount, to "center" the mount roughly where the original one would be. The thin stainless steel shim washers I found look more like the size of MrDavo's, and they work well for centering the mount, but their OD is pretty much the same as the opening for the bushing, so while they may keep the bushing well-centered, I don't think they would really keep the shock mount from shifting sideways off the bushing if there's any proper force applied in that direction. A larger washer against the acorn nut would keep the shock from coming off, of course, but it seems like the shock could be pushed inwards past the washer with the right encouragement. So - can anyone check the dimensions of that 10.3mm OEM washer (P/N 90527-230-000)? MrDavo, might you know the dimensions of the spacer washers that TEC provided with your shocks?
82
« on: August 26, 2020, 11:20:54 PM »
Matt,
I looked at opening the tabs but decided this was likely to crease and maybe damage the chrome as hard to do neatly.
It also seemed that the problem is the gasket rather than the silencer so I just ‘peeled’ a bit off the outside of the gasket with a Stanley knife, trying to keep it as even / round as possible.
Messy but seems to have worked OK
Good luck with your one
Cheers
Andy
Thanks Andy - I'll check it out!
83
« on: August 26, 2020, 05:18:25 PM »
Yes, can't say I was too impressed either.
Silencer arrived and is a nice finish but also had a couple of issues with it...
Same problem with the gasket - after a 10 minute session of self-doubt determined that it was simply too thick so had to thin the gasket down (messy) to get it in. Getting ready to install my exhaust - I checked and found the same problem with my silencer and gasket. The gasket’s outer diameter is 49mm, but the diameter of the silencer opening (where the tabs end) is only about 47mm. Andy, what did you do to thin down the gasket? I suppose I could bend the tabs open enough to fit the silencer onto the gasket, but it wouldn't slide all the way home that way...
84
« on: August 25, 2020, 10:46:23 PM »
Well, I think I managed bleeding the system. Filled the system with fluit, got the MC working and bled until no more air came out, either from the bleed nipple or from the return hole inside the MC reservoir. Not sure exactly how it's supposed to feel, or what the "correct" lever travel should be, as the brakes were frozen when I got the bike. But the lever works, it stops the wheel spinning and allows it to spin again when I release the lever. The brake light switch works.
Anyone care to comment on lever travel? How far before the brake light comes on? How far from the grip does the lever really harden up? I'm sure there must be variations from bike to bike, but nice to have an idea.
I've got the lever pulled back to within about 1/2 inch of the grip and tied overnight, just in case it helps draw more air out...
85
« on: August 23, 2020, 10:14:58 PM »
So, going to try bleeding the system tomorrow, keeping in mind all the advice above.
But: when doing this, do I need to have the rubber MC diaphragm in place at all? Or is that just to keep the fluid under control when the bike is in use?
86
« on: August 23, 2020, 07:54:59 PM »
Never mind... I don't know what happened, but when I went back to check it again, the junction/bracket turned freely when I loosened the mounting bolt... 
87
« on: August 23, 2020, 06:54:57 PM »
I'm reassembling my brake system - I'm having a difficult time getting the brake switch junction back in place. It's really fighting me. This is the only way it seems to fit, slightly crooked and the tab on the right (of the photo) in contact with the fork clamp (see arrow). Is this right?
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
88
« on: August 23, 2020, 12:17:50 PM »
Four to six months for chrome? Seven months for paint? Wow - are these guys that busy? Or do they wait until they have a big enough pile of parts on hand to do a run?
89
« on: August 15, 2020, 08:21:35 PM »
Matt, if you look under where you have the bottom of the rubber band fitted, there is a hoop type lip thing, it's part of the same bracket, that is whete the bottom of the rubber band hooks on to, not where you have it. Ahh... this bit? [ Guests cannot view attachments ] But, I agree, it's always at a funny angle. The speed stay unit attached to where your strap is in the 1st photo. My previous post's first photo with the really wonky strap angle is where the strap was when I got the bike. The second photo looks more correct, and shows how I have it now - but maybe I'm wrong about the frame lug and I actually do have the strap hooked onto the speed unit bracket in the right spot? I'm away from the bike so I can't confirm or deny...
90
« on: August 15, 2020, 06:09:17 PM »
Yes, on all market models, except the JDM, the speed stay bracket is where the end of the rubber band hooks on to to keep the loom / bundle / birds nest in place. On the JDM models, that is where the speed unit fitted.
Is this "speed unit" some kind of warning device? I see lots of references to the bracket, but not much on the device itself. I must admit to being a bit skeptical about the notion that the loom "rubber band" is meant to hook on the speed stay bracket, even though that's the way mine came to me. It's a pretty awkward fit; the angle isn't right for either end of the strap: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] There's a bottom tab on the frame which seems to be designed to receive the lower end of the strap; I don't have a photo of it but when utilized, the strap lines up much better with its upper tab: [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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