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Messages - Bryanj
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8131
« on: May 20, 2014, 06:05:12 PM »
8132
« on: May 20, 2014, 08:19:01 AM »
Not a Classic but a Kit car in the garage plus an L200 mitsi and a pug406 hdi to keep going!!
8133
« on: May 17, 2014, 11:44:08 PM »
Pete you dont need a dial gauge they are more accurate than ever needed, Honda only trued to 1/8 inch!!!
Just a piece of welding wire clamped so its close to the rim is all you need BUT take note of where the rim is welded together as trying to true out the kink caused there will send you to the looney bin mate.
As a hint separate the spoke into the 2 types and only fit the 20 where you can see the head on the outside of the hub, when you have it true on those 20, which is a lot easier as there are less to play with, you fit the other 20 by feeding them through and getting all the tensions equal
8134
« on: May 17, 2014, 11:35:04 PM »
On the US site I put up an e Honda document explaining the 3 phase charging circuit PM me your emaail addy again (I don't keep them!) and i will send you a jpeg copy
8135
« on: May 17, 2014, 11:33:10 PM »
Firdt obvious sign of an early one is the sticker on the side panel under the 500 Four badge that states Honda Motor Co., Tokyo Japan.
there were press models and i have seen one about years ago, if you can find pictures you should find registrations.
The first Japanese ones had fixed footrests, a light in the steering stem top nut and several other mods from other markets but officialy only K1 models ever came to the UK, even whilst US had a K2
8136
« on: May 17, 2014, 11:28:44 PM »
hels are easy and you don't need anything special to get to manufactures spec, a vice and a long screwdriver is all you need and lacing them in the right order
8137
« on: May 16, 2014, 01:57:15 PM »
sometimes called "Speed Nuts"
8138
« on: May 16, 2014, 01:56:06 PM »
Never had to do one yet but you can fill them with vaseline
8139
« on: May 16, 2014, 05:57:20 AM »
I thought that the F2 had bigger diameter fork tubes
8140
« on: May 16, 2014, 05:55:57 AM »
If you mean the stud is pulling out you will have to helicoil the hole
8141
« on: May 15, 2014, 07:06:21 AM »
You sure there is not a small split in the brass overflow tube?
8142
« on: May 14, 2014, 08:51:16 AM »
Ash, they are all numbered/letterd even the early ones but i have found from experience that it is possible to swap just the caps, sometimes they fit better by turning them round.
i have found that if when you drop them on there is no "step" from cap to carrier at the bearing surface they will run happily. Way back when the shop i worked for used to keep on the shelf carriers, cams and followers for two engines and we had a man who would spend hours grinding the cam bearing surfaces and boring the carries then fitting pegged half roun bronze bushes, but he gave up years ago
8143
« on: May 13, 2014, 06:17:44 AM »
I have before managed to use different caps with care also (somewhere) i think i have some used towers
8144
« on: May 13, 2014, 06:15:15 AM »
Yes if you use the K7 head or check the piston clearance and use avgas
8145
« on: May 12, 2014, 10:23:32 AM »
K0 had the hook latch and different patten seat squares, also smaller yellow reflectors on headlamp brackets, clock brackets and chrome backs like all the UK ones, different fork internals and if VERY early slightly different shape crancases
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