This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - PatM
Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7] 8 9 ... 14
91
« on: November 09, 2013, 08:16:36 AM »
Roll up roll up- literally at my door if you want. Im having a garage clear out and have 2 of 4:1 exhaust pipes- both rusty but one not too bad and a seat with a plastic base- Im going to dump them on account Ive no room and need to create some- Im happy to give them to anyone who can pick them up- Maidstone. They might do someone a short-term turn!
92
« on: November 05, 2013, 02:22:59 PM »
In addition- as your carb is so clean, and my spare set not- Ive re-checked- it actually on the same side as the adjuster but as it said- YES its blocked. Just shows to us all-- compressed air is a very powerful medium!
93
« on: November 05, 2013, 02:16:38 PM »
From what I can see- its an orifice on the opposite side of the air-stub from the pilot-jet adjuster- if so, YES its supposed to be blocked. A dab of mastic or a more permanent solution would be some metal-glue- the stuff that you knead with you hands that looks like a stick of dynamite will fill it!
94
« on: November 05, 2013, 12:38:19 PM »
totally confused!- can you PM me the picture as Ive a few sets of carbs off the bike- patrickjmorgan@btinternet.com and Ill have a look for you.
95
« on: November 01, 2013, 09:16:14 AM »
Firstly, it shouldnt weep. Follow Brian's advice for a permanent solution- but maybe have a peek at whats preventing the nipple seating. The drilling has a very acute angle in the casting at the bottom- you might be able to clear the depression by introducing a sharp drill-bit that clears the treads (in other words doesn't touch them) - I cant offer a size to suggest- and also, you might want to emery-cloth the nipple end itself. Its bad practice, but...some PTFE tape might just seal the threads, but careful with anything to do with brakes- as they are not the best on the 400/4 as we all know- and don't attract the attention of the MOT tester..dare I suggest.
96
« on: October 31, 2013, 05:04:21 PM »
His name is Peter Horton and Ive got a pdf of how to do it that he kindly gave me- im going to try and upload it to this forum...Sod it- its too big! email me at patrickjmorgan@btinternet.com and Ill send it to you!
97
« on: October 31, 2013, 04:48:32 PM »
The clocks are best taken to Peter who's a member of Vjmcc in Kent. He does a fabulous job of returning them for about 100 per clock. If you want to have a go for yourself- the stainless band needs prizing open to allow the backs section of the clock loose. It's doable, but it will leave marks. Someone on her will have Peters email add. I've spoken to him at theGamecock, which is near BrandsHatch and I've seen his work.
98
« on: October 25, 2013, 08:27:14 PM »
Ive got one set of carbs on the bike and 2 sets as spares= All 3 sets will exhibit one problem or another...carbs, very fickle things.. Actually, I have to say that my younger brother had at least 3 400/4s in the mid seventies and one of them used to piss fuel out carbs now and then- and it was BN.. What I found the re-jet kid did for me was to seal up the main jet- as when I brought my present one it was a non runner, only because of carbs.
Ok, Ive spent a bit tarting it up, but it would start and run initially,
99
« on: October 20, 2013, 07:00:46 PM »
If you got away with just cleaning flaot-bowls and a blow-out then good job. I suspect however if they were that bad that the running will be all over the place with fuel leaking/sucked up the main jet sides. You should re-jet with a DSS set or Keyster kit- costs about £90 but eliminates an obvious source of trouble..well, one of them...
100
« on: October 17, 2013, 07:20:52 PM »
If you suspect theres no fuel getting to the carbs, then just remove and re-hose it without a filter. They do fail! as well as leak... Whipping a plug out will tell if shes fueling
101
« on: October 01, 2013, 07:19:57 PM »
Oh I agree for the winter months- especially as its running ok. My '2nd set' did do that. The ones that are on there at present have a habit of starting on 3 cylinders or generally being a bitch to start after a week or so of non-use. So theres no happy medium! Im leaving well alone as its a perfectly usable bike and once started- runs very well.
102
« on: October 01, 2013, 08:53:28 AM »
Enjoy! But guess by now you have resigned yourself to a carb strip. I have a spare set for mine and despite rebuild, new jets carb cleaner and airline- the spare set still does that!!!
103
« on: August 26, 2013, 09:24:10 PM »
Honestly, get someone with a mig set to weld a nut on- it will come off, then you can repent at leisure and fit a new bolt..
104
« on: August 26, 2013, 09:12:54 PM »
If Id seen htis earlier, Id have measured mine for you, as I has it off to replace the rectangular see-through in line fuel filter..which started to leak after 2 weeks. They are glued together... As your tank is effectively scrap in its present width- id give it the bear-hug that Brian suggests as you have little to loose.
105
« on: August 11, 2013, 08:59:13 PM »
Hi Mick- a common problem we have with them! I'm presuming that you have striped/cleaned and re-jetted with a whole kit? Mine does exactly the same now an then and as is said above, a sharp tap with a hammer once you have rushed to turn the fuel off usually unsticks the flat valves. I doubt its much more than that!
Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7] 8 9 ... 14
|