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Messages - 400 Cafe Racer

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91
As I said Ted, there was no colours on any of the existing shells. It was 5 sequences of Plastiguage measurement, taking readings each time and assessing where I needed to add or subtract clearance when I had the next set of results, non ended up in their original positions!!!. All the shells are run in with a light polish and I have ended up with all journals at 2thou clearance, which would have been 1.5thou on virgin shells. These clearances will allow full use of the rev range without concern.

The crankshaft is excellent, just that the 1 and 5 journals were too loose, losing some oil pressure I would imagine, and the centre 3 rather too small on clearance.

Very happy now its sorted and on its way back together.

92
Hi, NOW SOLD

If you are doing an Engine rebuild these may save you some serious  cash. Purchased new from DS this week, only 2 removed from packets to test crank mains gap using Plastiguage. This was to give me a datum for measurement as my original shells were without any colours.

Members can have at half price + postage, before I offer on ebay.

See full deails on Member 4 Sales.

Hope this helps one of you Guys.

93
H Ted,

Pictures attached below. Looked through the invoices from PO and they were purchased in 2016 from 4into1 San Francisco and appear to have done about 5k miles since, with Electronic Ign being added in 2020.

94
Thanks Ted,

It looks as though the HT leads I have fitted are not the originals with the kit then.

I will do some more research before deciding which way to go with replacements.

Cheers

Dennis

95
Hi Ted,
Thanks for looking at your leads- do they also have " 7mm HI-TEMP RADIO SUPPRESION CABLE" printed along the leads please ?

Hi K2-K6,
Thanks for that interesting thread, It is nice to think that others have gone to some trouble to diagnose what is happening.
I wasn't sure if the second trace in the first graph was the torque curve ?

I concur fully with your thoughts on the advance characteristics and reason for leanness during low ventui air speed.
( Perhaps fit SU carbs, with the hydraulic damper !!! to richen during acceleration)

In my late teens (about 1962) I specialised on Crypton Oscilloscope tuning, with the additional Exhaust Gas Analyser, working for the large Main Jaguar, Daimler, Rover, Vauxhall, Standard Triumph agency - Attwoods in Stafford. This was an ideal opportunity to dig deep into actually "seeing" electronically what the engines were doing. I count myself as very fortunate to have been in this position at the time and got great satisfaction on tuning and working on E Types, Daimler Darts, Sporty Rovers and Triumphs, road testing on an unrestricted M6 motorway, plus general analytical work for trouble shooting all vehicles.

Coming back to the point I can visualise exactly what you are saying.

Before I stripped the engine to do an inspection, on the previous run I had aquick look at the A/F ratio and it seems that with the Pod air filters and rejetting, that this lean mixture phase may have been overcome.
I will recheck the readings after the rebuild.
It would be relatively easy to delay the max advance to higher RPM by slightly strengthening the springs on the advance unit.

Perhaps someone could modify a DS Electronic Ign base plate to rotate and advance further by using a vacuum diaphragm unit off an old distributor coupled to the vacuum tapping used for the carb balancing. Would need some thought, refinement and planning to simulate what the car distributors did - but not impossible. (Juicy project for someone).

Thanks :)

Dennis

96
Ted,

As a matter of interest do your Dynatec HT leads look the same as mine on the outside. I have no idea if they are the ones that came with the package when it was fitted. ?

K2 - K6,

Is there much hard evidence from the CB400f owners about the combustion efficiency outcomes (power, torque, Air/Fuel analysis readings or carbon deposit colour) on set ups run with or without resistors, or Dynatec   etc. ?

I believe there may be aspects of longer burn time with resistors and the 400 chambers having a swirl.

Interested to see what  the forum may have found. ?

Thanks :)

Dennis

97
Thanks K2 - K6,

As you say,opinion seems to be divided. I will probably fit new leads to hopefully even out the resistance readings more.

Do we know what specification of the original leads and caps were please. ?

Would this same combination suit the Dynatec Coils ?

Thanks for your comments.

Dennis :)

98
Hi Guys,

Just in the process of engine rebuild and checking other items before the refit.

The PO has DS Electronic Ignition and the Dynatec Coils fitted with carbon trace HT leads, not copper wire leads (see photo) these are then connected to 5Kohm plug caps. I was interested to check the HT cable resistance seperately.
All plug caps come in at 5Kohms, but the Ht leads measured along the disconnected cables vary, No1 = 12.4Kohm intermittent reading, No2 = 18Kohm solid reading, No3 = 12Kohm solid reading, No4 = 17Kohm solid reading.

I have my misgivings about carbon impregnated cotton plug leads, which can break the carbon chain if the lead is stretched, I'm thinking this could be the reason for the intermittent reading on No1.

Spark Plugs are NGK D8EA

I am interested to hear your views and experiences. ;)

Thanks

Dennis


99
Can anyone establish where the RED main bearing shells fit into Hondas Main Bearing grid chart please. ?

RED is not listed on the main bearing chart, but is on the BIG end bearing chart.

Was it introduced because some tight fitting could still be experienced using Yellow, so a further undersize was introduced ? Just my speculation.

What is the difference between the Yellow (not sold) and the Red stocked by D Silver and why did Honda not chart the Red ??

Has anybody seen a Yellow. ?

Measuring the shell thickness: - Brown is 1.490mm, Green is 1.485 and Red is 1.475mm.  There seems to be a gap at 1.480 Is this the Yellow size. ? (These are removed shells passed to me by PO and some from my present inspection)

Appreciate your thoughts and points of view. ;)

Regards

Dennis

100
Hi Julie,

Thanks very much for your confirmation on that point. 

After the realigning of the positive stopper I mentioned it functions smoothly, so no further action.

I will look at that bearing overhang you mentioned on Teds post, when I split the casings to fit the main bearing shells.

I would like to PM you over the next couple of days for some parts please if thats OK.

Regards

Dennis


101
Hi Ted,

This is the overhang on my bearing FWIW. ;D

Dennis

102
Just in the process of inspection prior to rebuilding the engine.

The gears were a little baulky finding neutral on a couple of occasions, all gears and selectors are good, so I have had a close look at the shift mechanism. I have managed to replicate this while the casing is open and found that there was a slight "twist" misalignment of the left leg on the positive stopper, causing it to foul (evidence of rubbing) before engaging with the roller.

I think this showed up more  because of the  extra load of lifting the neutral roller on its cam as well as the drum roller on its cam.

After realigning the left leg it operates smoothly.

However - it seems a little odd that the ends of the rollers have a gap of 0.8mm before the dished end plate - ( see photo )

It would surely be better for the rollers to almost touch the end plate - this would allow more secure area for the Rositive stopper (item 8 on diagram) legs to push against - which at the moment could be partly where the gap is.

There does not appear to be any bending of the dished washer causing the gap. Maybe this is just normal tollerances as the positve stopper legs are only steel pressings. We can get paranoid about things that will operate normally, but  are not to Rolls Royce standards.

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Is this gap normal. ?

Thanks

Dennis

103
Hi Ted,

I just spotted your post as I was about to post a query on the roller pins of the gearchange positive stopper. (Soon)

I have my crankcase halves assemmbled and have been measuring the 5 mainbearing borings for size.

Just been in my garage and checked this shaft for end float - mine is solid with no movement between the shaft and the inner bearing, but if I push in and pull out firmly it will move the outer bearing in the casing and shaft about 0.5mm, which appears to be the side movement in the half circlip and its groove.

Hope this helps. ;)

Regards

Dennis

104
Thanks Nurse Julie,

Thanks for  confirming what I thought. I have not come accross it specifically mentioned by Honda manual but felt that it should be the case in normal engineering practise.

I did see some "pinching" of the circumference on one seal where the 2 halves of the casing join, which led me to think that it had been fitted "clamped".

I am in the process of doing the internal measurement and inspection of components at the moment and will be in touch with you later. Thanks.

Regards

Dennis

105
Hope to get on further with the engine rebuild shortly, but on stripping I noticed some seals seem to have been "clamped in when fitting" evident by the significant oozing of the plastic profile of the seal protruding inside the case. This would make it almost impossible to extract a seal  without splitting the casings.

OR

Should they all be pressed in externally after mating the casings.

Interested on your thoughts. :-\

Dennis

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