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Messages - kettle738
91
« on: July 04, 2014, 06:21:39 AM »
when you get the switch see if the starter button connects the red/yellow to a black or to an earth and report back Hi Chaps......well I had to wait a while but eventually got the repo switch from DSS. On the outside it looks spot on and the lighting ON/OFF switch seems ok, but the starter button was a different matter, very poorly and cheaply made, but the good news is the casing is such an accurate copy I could fit original Honda parts from another switch in place. (It connects to a black / live) I can now switch the headlamp on and off and everything else functions just fine.......but I am having a head scratching moment with the rear light......I have absolutely no idea how to incorporate that into the switched system so it turns on and off with the headlamp......I'm not even sure if it can be done.......any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated. I have to say this has been more awkward than I expected it to be as the UK and US wiring harnesses are completely different and I have a mental dead spot with electrics so any pointers would be great......failing that, the rear light stays on. ( hopefully not an MOT problem) Mick........kettle738
92
« on: June 05, 2014, 09:59:48 PM »
I wonder if that's a typo or misunderstanding on the part of the author......all the Hondas I've owned that have been original and unmolested had bright zinc spokes with yellow passivate nipples.
I took some crankcase bolts into Ashford chroming a couple of years back for BZP, they came back nickel plated....I still have them.....nicely nickel plated but ruined as I can't use them like that, totally different finish.
BZP does change colour and dull quite dramatically with age.
Mick...........kettle738
93
« on: April 22, 2014, 06:55:20 AM »
see if the starter button connects the red/yellow to a black or to an earth and report back Will do, they are out of stock at the moment, but hopefully not too long. Mick.
94
« on: April 21, 2014, 07:26:02 PM »
Thanks chaps, I think I understand the UK/US set ups a lot better now from the descriptions. As it happens I'm quite happy to ride with the lights on, but I always want to be able to turn it off for that less than perfect battery moment.....no one wants to push start a Gold Wing, even if it is the lightest of the bunch. I found this at Silvers http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_35300341671P/If I use this I think I get the best of all worlds, no pilot light so no need to change the headlamp.....all I need to do is ensure the starter button arrangement is compatible and see if I can work out how to incorporate the rear light so it is also switched. Mick.
95
« on: April 20, 2014, 11:20:16 AM »
Many thanks for that, these are similar to some I found online......what seems to be more elusive than Lord Lucan though is a UK or European diagram in colour. These are instantly recognisable by the addition of a pilot light in the headlamp.
Some Clymer manuals have colour diagrams....not sure if that includes a UK/European version though. Black and white versions unless they are huge are worse than useless.
Giving the two yellow 'charging system' leads in the UK handlebar switch some further thought, it seems to me with my limited understanding of these things that the US harness has dispensed with the need for them so I should be able to isolate and ignore them.....but I'm appreciative of informed advice.
Mick.
96
« on: April 19, 2014, 05:39:07 PM »
Many thanks for that........I have a Haynes but the circuit diagram is in black and white and pretty much impossible to follow......I have a US wiring diagram in colour but can't find a UK GL1000 colour diagram anywhere.
In the meantime I have loosely wired it in and it switches the headlamp off just fine......I need to work out how to include a pilot lamp which I think I can do and how to incorporate the rear light into the switched circuit which may be a little more difficult.
The basic question still remains though about the two yellow wires (my instinct is to just isolate them with heat shrink) which seem to be redundant on the US spec bike, so any advice about those would be much appreciated....
................Mick.
97
« on: April 19, 2014, 04:53:54 PM »
Hi all, further to my last about fitting a light switch to a US sourced 1977 GL1000...I have turned up a nice set of UK handlebar switches which have the ON/OFF/Park functions I want.
Ignoring the parking light for now I would like to fit this switch.......but it has a pair of yellow wires which don't correspond to the US wiring harness. A bit of research revealed this...... the 2 yellow wires are part of the charging system.
There are 3 yellow wires coming from the alternator, two go directly to the rectifier/Regulator, the third goes there too, but via a set of contacts in the light switch. This was, I believe, done to prevent overcharging the battery.
The US wiring seems to have done away with this set up....does anyone with a better understanding of wiring than mine know if I can safely ignore these two yellow wires and isolate them while using the useful functions of the switch? I guess the same might apply to other 1970s Hondas.
Thanks...........Mick.
98
« on: April 06, 2014, 07:41:41 PM »
check the earth leads first, and also the solenoid as both of these would create the issues you describe Will do, thanks for the input, it's appreciated. Mick...........kettle738
99
« on: April 04, 2014, 07:40:01 AM »
Hi Pete, thank you, that's very kind of you.......zero urgency though, next time I see you would be great.
If it gets urgent I'll ride over to yours.
I notice we have a new CB750 (sandcast IIRC) owner in Dover......we should take a ride over there some time.
Best.............Mick.
100
« on: April 04, 2014, 06:55:36 AM »
The starter motor on my K0 is a bit sluggish, it will start it when warm but it always feels like it's struggling even though the battery is good. (The compression does feel surprisingly strong on the kick start)
I would like to find a nice clean starter from a low miler and just substitute it rather than fettle the existing one.....and there are loads for sale.
Problem is, most are from much later models. Were any changes made to the starter motor which would prevent a K2 to K7 starter from slotting straight into a K0 crankcase? Are the later ones better?.......were they improved over the years of production? Are there better starters from different bikes that fit? anyone got any knowledge of these please?
Mick..........kettle738
101
« on: March 26, 2014, 12:47:54 PM »
In the USA there is a brand of paint, Duplicolor and a specific engine enamel 'Cast Coat Aluminium DE1650' that is a spot on match for Honda crankcase silver. Example here.....scroll down to the engine pic. http://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=4639I bought a dozen cans of this stuff while I was in Florida a few years back only to discover no one would ship it back to the UK if I honestly declared what was in the parcel.....they are probably still in my mate's garage. I've tried countless other paints available in the UK and never found anything that truly hit the spot. Holts seem to own the Duplicolor brand in the UK and they don't stock this particular paint. Has anyone ever found a genuinely good match that can be bought over here.....or better still a UK or EU source for Duplicolor DE1650? Mick...........kettle738
102
« on: March 21, 2014, 09:21:12 PM »
Hi all, many thanks for the suggestions and comments, much appreciated. As it happens I've been surfing the problem and sort of found this site by accident. http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.htmlsadly when it comes to electrics I can understand the basics easily enough but I'm an unimaginative tw4t so I need clear and unambiguous instructions, preferably with pictures.......how dull is that? The diagram entitled 'START SWITCH SAFEGUARD' here looks perfect for my purposes I'm pretty sure I can fit this nicely hidden and in such a way that nothing is irretrievably altered and can be returned to standard simply by unplugging it. Hopefully it might help another 'low voltage' dullard. in the same position. Best..................Mick.
103
« on: March 20, 2014, 07:56:28 PM »
So...it's a SOHC Honda..of sorts, it's a GL1000 and although it's from the land of the free, it seems they're not even free to turn the headlight off.
Starting a bike with the headlamp burning is not great at the best of times, so I would like to fit an ON/OFF switch. Honda make a neat little switch for the CB750K2 and earlier I think which clamps to the handlebar as a stand alone switch.....ideal.
The problem is, where on earth do I interrupt the circuit to turn off all the lights.....can it be done? The headlamp, tail lamp etc are independently fused, not sure about the instrument lights......if I were to cut into the power feed it looks as if I would be turning half the bike off.
Has anyone done this on any US import....who could perhaps give me a pointer in the right direction please.
Mick............kettle738
104
« on: December 31, 2013, 06:35:00 PM »
Go here. http://www.tankcareproducts.co.uk/ Scroll right down to sealant removers. I have used this stuff to get failing tank sealer out of two tanks.........neither of them needed sealing in the first place. Tank sealer is ghastly stuff, to be used as a last resort and only if it's really needed. Mick...........kettle738
105
« on: November 01, 2013, 02:01:04 PM »
DVLA won't work if its an early K2 as it would have had a green old style log book and they did not keep copies of those, only the V5 and V5C Not necessarily so, I applied for the full history for my K0 (reg'd Jan 1970) and the earliest document they sent back was a photocopy of the old style folding green log book. Admittedly it's a dreadful copy, but it is legible.......just. If it's a UK bike the worst that can happen is you waste £5 if you don't get the info you need, but for that money and the small effort involved it's got to be worth asking surely? Mick........kettle738
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