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Messages - Lobo

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Desperately Seeking!! / Re: Bits’n’bobs to good homes
« on: September 22, 2018, 06:59:16 PM »
...list now closed folks...

CB350/400 / Re: Fork gaiters on 400/ or naff?
« on: September 14, 2018, 05:19:02 PM »
...funny old thing, they look fine on my 750K2. And by default, I guess they wouldn’t be objectional on my 400F. From an engineering POV they make good sense... particularly if using the bike regularly /  in all weathers.
And for me... that would be the deciding factor.

Member 4 Sales / Re: CB400 four Heaps of spared
« on: September 14, 2018, 04:34:05 PM »
...have you got a fuel tap? Just sold a tank and the lady now in search of this... if so can you pm me & will hook you’s up!

Desperately Seeking!! / Re: Bits’n’bobs to good homes
« on: September 14, 2018, 01:07:37 PM »
...sure Julie, you’ve first dibs on those ‘400F spacers. Ta for the address.. will let you know shortly.

Hi Nigel, I’m (in & out) of an address on the Hangar Lane gyratory (W5) ..bloody chaos. Best I post it methinks. PM me an address? Your’s unless you decline...

Desperately Seeking!! / Bits’n’bobs to good homes
« on: September 14, 2018, 11:55:55 AM »
Hi all,

Having a clear-out & recently ebayed a few bits... now left with a couple of unsold items which will sadly go to the tip unless good homes found. (off to Oz, won’t be shipping these..)


(1) CB400F DID Rims... minor rust (this was a US bike originally) / serviceable, though a gorilla has scored the chrome in places. Aargh... 😱
(2) Plastic 750K2 mudguard... in Ruby Red! Interesting...🤔
(3) CB400F Clutch cover... serviceable, a bit scuffed
(4) SS50 (5 Speed) Handlebar mounts. Repro items, grommets u/s
(5)  SS50 Speedo Cable - serviceable, though sheath worn at mudguard contact point.
(6) Wagner Sealed Beam Unit. LHD. 60/45W (approx 175m Dia) VGC - off my 750K2 (no pilot, tho’ interestingly a clear disc area in the reflector for this?)
(7) CB750K2 Rear Light Mount (Fair)
(8) Yamaha Flywheel? 113mm x 40mm (help here?... new / unused condition & sacrilege to skip it)
(9) Possibly a couple of 400F rear wheel spacers.. tba

If you’re interested in any of the above PM me & I’ll send a pic ... unless you want regardless in which case give me with an address. 1st come 1st served basis!

I’m away this weekend & will post next Weds thereabouts... and PM you back with those costs. (to my PayPal pls)

CB750 / Re: Truing wheels, tyre selection and balancing
« on: June 18, 2018, 12:57:07 AM »
Underdog, a while ago my MOT testing station told me those spoke mounted weights now illegal as they can come loose / fly off / become a bullet. Regardless, like you I prefer ‘em and sourced s job lot off here - and statically balance my own wheels. Never had a problem...
(Trig - you do MOTs... this right??)

CB750 / Re: Wiring problem
« on: June 17, 2018, 01:39:03 AM »
GREAT point Al.. ie the crimping / ability to use standard bullets without the hassle of soldering etc. Never thought of that one...

CB350/400 / Re: Charging circuit test
« on: June 17, 2018, 01:36:24 AM »
Steve - I honestly wouldn’t know typical AC readings as this test is not described anywhere I read - rather the resistance of each STATOR winding is the typical check. (should be 0.2 ohms ‘ish)

(Whilst you’re at it, you should check your FIELD Coil winding... the coil within the STATOR. This has WHITE & GREEN wires - this resistance should be 7.2 ohms’ish)

You mention you’re a little uncomfortable with reading Resistances... set your meter as the below pic RED circle. (No matter which way around you use the probes). Set the scaling correctly... or just understand why it reads 0.72 ... or 72 ohms etc!

I’m not near my bike(s) to do such an AC output coil check on a healthy machine... if I had to guess I might say 16vAC ?

BUT. The point is, it is highly unlikely all 3 windings would have failed in exactly the same way... ie. just as when looking at cylinder compressions - you’re mainly looking for a difference. Such a thing will point to an issue ... if all 3 readings are give-or-take the same (and > 15vAC) I’d reckon you could move on from the stator.

As Bryan has already mentioned, one of the diodes may have failed within the Rectifier (fin air cooled thingy with 5 wires (3 yellow + Red + Green) coming out. Have you checked this?

If you study the 2nd attachment below (drawing schematic) you can see that ALTERNATING (AC) current is fed into the middle of 6 Diodes. (via the stator output, ie the 3x Yellow wires)
Diodes only allow flow in one direction ... and so you can see that (to the left side of all #3 inputs) the positive part of the alternating flow will be allowed to pass through the ‘arrows’... to the RED/WHITE wire, the negative part will not. Equally, to the RHS of all #3 inputs.. all positive flow will be rejected, whilst the negative portion of the cycling current will be allowed to flow to the GREEN wire.
And bingo... Alternating current is ‘rectified’ into Direct current, ie +ve at the RED/WHITE and -be at the GREEN wires.

So... if one of those diodes has failed... your charging will be degraded.

Set your multimeter to the Blue (ie Diode setting) circle, and put:
(1) The Black probe on the first  YELLOW, and the Red probe on the RED/WHITE Wire. You should have continuity ... and if your meter so equipped, a B...E...E...P.
(2) keep the Black probe on the first YELLOW, and move the Red probe to the GREEN Wire. Should have zip.
(3) move the Black probe onto the second YELLOW, and put the Red probe on the RED/WHITE Wire. You should have continuity ... and if your meter so equipped, a B...E...E...P.
(4) keep the Black probe on the second YELLOW, and move the Red probe to the GREEN Wire. Should have zip.
(5) move the Black probe on the third YELLOW, and put the Red probe on the RED/WHITE Wire. You should have continuity ... and if your meter so equipped, a B...E...E...P.
(6) keep the Black probe on the third YELLOW, and move the Red probe to the GREEN Wire. Should have zip.

If any part of the above fails you’ve likely an issue with your Rectifier. (Don’t forget this issue could simply be corrosion in the plug etc - ie if it fails the test check the wiring / bullets etc)

Wrapping up... and having re-read your first post... the charging on these old bikes is minimal at best. If you’ve non-standard coils (?) which are ‘high performance’ there is every possibility you’re overloading the charging system with lights on etc. If you’ve non-standard lights, add-in electrics... ditto. Just sitting at traffic lights, foot on the brake, headlamp on, maybe indicators...  you’ll be depleting the battery. Bottom line, don’t begin to compare this charging system’s output with anything modern you might own! Use your electrics sparingly, avoid main lights if pootling about town etc, get the starting bang-on... ie no-need of excessive cranking.

Good luck,

CB750 / Re: Wiring problem
« on: June 16, 2018, 02:12:15 AM »
Sprinta... these of any use?

CB350/400 / Re: Charging circuit test
« on: June 16, 2018, 02:03:57 AM »
Steve... to check for AC voltage ..

(1) select a suitable AC Voltage range on your multimeter. (Eg 50v AC)
(2) With all connections ‘normal’, start the bike
(3) put your multimeter probes across a pair of the YELLOW stator windings... and check the AC Voltage
(4) Do this for the next pair
(5) Ditto.

Attached a YouTube clip, not necessarily what you’re after, but useful general knowledge stuff..

CB750 / Re: Wiring problem
« on: June 16, 2018, 01:21:30 AM »
Hi Underdog. Given the fuse is rated at 15A, anything over this should be fine. Belt’n’braces wise I personally might have gone up a notch (1.5mm?); esp as you say, it’s such a small dia and so loom thickness is not an issue.

CB750 / Re: Wiring problem
« on: June 15, 2018, 04:18:46 PM »
Ha! hairygit - good point. Eggs on faces all ‘round if you’re right. Sprinta, for gawds sake don’t admit to it if bulbs blown etc!

CB750 / Re: Wiring problem
« on: June 15, 2018, 05:18:10 AM »
Hi again Andy,

Attached a modified circuit diagram as to how my K2 was wired, iaw the UK additional LH Main switch and its external wiring (ugh). I read that it was incorporated to stop you plunging yourself into total darkness as you went from HI to LO Beam... and thence inadvertently to P (= actually OFF). Aargh..
(still bloody useless as you were left with a wee park lamp ...)

So... this add-on UK switch ADDITIONALLY connects the BLACK Ignition supply to the BROWN/WHITE Inst illum lamp circuit ...  ie see the attached diagram, noting that switch terminals TL & IG are effectively connected when this UK switch is ON.

The ‘UK’ switch then controlled power to the Park / Tail lamps via the Inst Illum circuit with the IGN Switch in the P1 position.

So... with the Ignition Switch in P1

(1) UK switch OFF ... P= no lights at all, L=LO+Park+Tail+Inst, H=HI+Park+Tail+Insts
(2) UK switch ON..... P=Park lamp+Tail+Insts; L=LO+Park+Tail+Inst, H=HI+Park+Tail+Insts 

With the Ignition Switch in P2..

(1) The above BLACK feed / Inst BROWN/WHITE circuits not energised, and the tail / park lamps now get their power from the perm live RED.

Personally, I hate the crappy UK Switch and it’s external wiring, and so have deleted it. The choice was to return to the ‘standard’ Honda wiring & occasionally plunge yourself into complete darkness... or instead, splice the BLACK directly into the BROWN / WHITE.
I’ve gone for the latter... the downside being that the lights come ON immediately with ignition P1, ie behave as in (2) above.

Just a final comment on the typical wiring diagrams... such as I’ve attached. The diagram show 4 different RH light switch selections, ie P (OFF), H (HI Beam), Neutral (switch some mid position) and L (Low Beam). You have to read them in isolation... ie one switch position at a time.
SINCERE apologies if I’m teaching you to suck eggs here... 😳!

(1) the LIGHTING DIMMER SWITCH OFF box shows the switch in the P position, no connections are made, everything is actually OFF. Dead. Nada.
(2) the next box down, ‘HIGH’ illustrates the switch internal connections with H selected, ie the IG (ignition) is connected to TL (tail light) and also HB (High Beam)
(3) the next box down, ‘NEUTRAL’ shows the switch in some neutral / mid position, and shows all connnections are made / lighting is safe. (Ie IG connected to TL, and HB, and LB (Low Beam)
(4) the lowermost box ‘LOW’ shows the switch internal connections with L selected. (Ie IG connected to TL and LB)

Read the COMBINATION Switch in the same way... (to you & me it’s the Ignition Switch with its 3 positions, OFF, P1 (Ignition ON) .... & P2 (Park)

Hope this helps.. in my modified wiring diagram I’ve shown the front Park / pilot lamp wiring in blue.. (should be BROWN)...limitations of my iPad alas.

Cheers and good luck, again, accept my apologies if boring you with the obvious.

PS - Andy, I’m not saying this is how a 1973 K2 was out the Dealership.... I’m rather saying how mine was wired when I became its ‘next minder’ it in 2012.

« on: June 14, 2018, 02:20:09 PM »
Paul... on my last balancing act, a lovely summer’s day, and bearing in mind I’m no professional, my 750K2 got rather hot (& smelly). On the very next ride out a coil failed - aargh. In my wee mind I’ve no doubt who’s fault it was 😢. From now on I’ll be using a fan across the cylinders for peace of mind...

CB750 / Re: Wiring problem
« on: June 14, 2018, 04:27:54 AM »
Hi Andy,

From the sounds of it, you ‘simply’ have a break (loom or bullet connector) between the ignition switch BROWN (out) & Tail-Pilot light positive feed. I’m guessing that the instrument illum lights work.... this is the circuit which is energised with the lighting switch in h/b  (not P) .. and feeds back into the ignition switch (Position 1) ... thence through to the tail / parking light. Gawd...

With the ignition in Position 2; the tail / park get their supply directly from the RED perm live..

Because you have lost both tail & pilot in both P1 & P2 ignition switch positions I’d therefore reckon the break is (as mentioned) is somewhere downstream of the Ignition Brown, but before it splits into forward / aft routings to the & Tail / Pilot lamps.
Because both Tail & Pilot have failed their respective earths are less likely the culprit...

One other possible gotcha might be corroded bullets / wiring / loom (in the above area) which can carry the minute current of your voltmeter test, but ‘fail’ under the load of light bulbs. This could be easily checked by running a hot-wire directly from the brown (ign switch output) to the lamps... ie by passing the loom / bullet connectors.

Attached a wiring diagram I use - not perfect, and not an English K2... but near enough. They are indeed hard to find... (the colours are crap, the BROWN wire is point TL2 on the switch)

Good luck,

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