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Messages - Rob62

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CB350/400 / Re: Storage for Winter
« on: Today at 09:14:15 PM »
For mine i just drain the carbs and spray all the brightwork with moisture repelling spray, i have used various types all with success.. ideally remove the front brake pads first or cover discs with a poly bag.. i dont remove the battery but i think its a good idea... i like to run the motors ip a few times during the winter, make sure fully up to temp though otherwise you fill the exhaust with moisture...

CB750 / Re: Dry sump!
« on: November 22, 2020, 12:09:50 PM »
I dont think you can tell straight after firing up...but once its been running a bit and you look into the top of the tank you will see some foaming as the oil returns....

CB750 / Re: Exhausted working this problem.
« on: November 22, 2020, 12:07:51 PM »
They are available by the way... if anyone wants them  :)

CB750 / Re: Exhausted working this problem.
« on: November 22, 2020, 12:02:44 PM »
Are they like these? These are jardine 4 into 2’s. As you can see the 2 and 3 cyl go to the left pipe and the 1 and 4 go to the right..

CB750 / Re: Dry sump!
« on: November 22, 2020, 11:53:27 AM »
Sounds like you may be making it more complicated than it is. The pump controls the oil, all you need to do is fill the tank with the specified amount, run the motor and check that the pump is working (you can see the oil returning to the tank and foaming slightly with the cap removed) and then when its all cooled down re check the level....

CB500/550 / Re: New 550 K3-owner. Whats with the decor?
« on: September 08, 2020, 10:55:57 PM »
Hi mastrup, I have seen new replica seats for sale but I can’t remember exactly where. Could’ve been DS or wemoto but there are other potential sources; cmsl, 4into1 etc.. I would check them all before buying from DS..

CB500/550 / Re: New 550 K3-owner. Whats with the decor?
« on: September 08, 2020, 08:01:54 PM »
Spot on, i quite like the paintwork, not for the purist but looks tidy enough. Not so keen on the seat but that’s an easy fix.... either a nice new replica or a giuliari style replica would look cool..😎... ps it sounds nice too!

As already stated, have a good clean round the area to degrease it so that you can determine exactly where the oil is coming from. Once you are sure its the oil seal you should be able to carefully prise it out either by drilling a small hole and screwing in a self tapping screw and then using this to pull, or my preferred option (less trouble) to carefully punch a small hole with a narrow flat bladed screwdriver and hammer and then prise it out... a hole at each side will help. Clean the whole area before refitting the new seal. As far as the seal is concerned you can buy good quality japanese or european lip seals from any industrial bearing supplier, usually over the counter, for just a few pounds. Get a couple of spares while you are there. When you come to refit the new seal be careful not to damage the lip of the seal on the sharp edges of the drive shaft (if you do you can go straight to the spare you just bought rather than back to the shop). You can wrap a length of sellotape over the splines to protect the lips and also use plenty of lithium grease to slide it over. You should be able to press the seal in by hand at least to get it started, then use a piece of tubing (without sharp edges) to gently tap it home. The concave side of the seal should face inwards. If you dont have any tube then use a flat ended punch or drift and gently tap whilst working around the edges of the seal to ensure it goes in flat and even. Good luck. Don't split the cases as that is an unnecessary waste of effort.

CB350/400 / Re: Why can't you have rusty petrol tank shot or bead blasted ?
« on: September 06, 2020, 12:25:04 PM »
Evaporust breaks the chemical bond between iron and oxygen, it doesn’t turn the metal black or any other colour... The only thing you must do is rinse thoroughly with water and then (for tanks) immediately dry and slosh some 2t and petrol in there to prevent flash rusting, which will occur whatever technique you use if you leave untreated after rinsing.

Electrolyte works well but can be fiddly fashioning an electrode and an insulator, currently being discussed on another thread... Recently i have used “evaporust” to good effect. Pro’s its re-usable and can be used on any ferrous items.. con’s its a bit expensive at 30 odd quid for 5 litres.... magic stuff though, not acidic at by breaking the iron - oxygen bond, clever stuff.

CB350/400 / Re: Why can't you have rusty petrol tank shot or bead blasted ?
« on: September 05, 2020, 12:51:44 PM »
Yep.... i left mine overnight, although i must admit i was a bit nervous of leaving it... The amount of crap and rust that came off was amazing though..

CB350/400 / Re: Why can't you have rusty petrol tank shot or bead blasted ?
« on: September 05, 2020, 11:52:24 AM »
I have used this technique in the past with great success... But watch out, last time I mentioned it on here i had one of the resident “experts” telling me it didn’t work... even though it did 😄

Project Board / Re: My CB550 K3 Restore Project
« on: September 05, 2020, 11:32:37 AM »
Engine looks superb!   8)

CB500/550 / Re: H4 headlight straining 15A fuse?
« on: August 31, 2020, 09:30:31 AM »
Sye... whilst power divided by volts indeed gives amps it’s not the full story when resistance is then bought into the equation. Your post fails to explain why lamps brighten as you increase the voltage - which you’ll know from 1st hand experience. The current (A) actually increases as you increase the voltage through the filament...the power rating of a lamp will be only be valid at the stated voltage .
Anyways, please don’t take my word on it, but rather google the explanation.

Yea, Deltarider, horses for courses. I’m gonna take a punt on the LED headlamp bulb, and will report back in due course. They annoyingly come in pairs... so if fail early I’ll have a spare 😂.

Trig... you say you’ve got LED replacement ‘globes’.... how are they performing?

I have had the cob type fitted to a 750 and a 550 for about a year or so and the 750 is just over a couple of thousand miles, since fitted with no problems. They are white light and not the yellow light you get from basic H4's.
I bought a trade pack of them and they worked out around £3 per bulb. I am no expert when it comes to electrics and can't understand why some of them have a cooling fan (which will not fit in the headlight bowl) and the cob type don't.

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I bought some of these bulbs by following the link that trigger posted.... that particular item was sold out but i did manage to find an exact same item for something like £1.98 each iirc. So i bought 3. They were due to arrive in mid sept but actually turned up in about 3 or 4 days, so i fitted them yesterday and they work and look great. I put one in each of the yamaha’s but kept the third as a spare since it wont fit in the Honda as it is still running the original sealed beam type unit and i would need to buy a replacement shell to fit it... prefer to keep her original if i can.. But if and when it ever fails i will definitely go with the leds.. at 6 quid for 3 bulbs its a no-brainer!

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