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Topics - AndyD

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1
Other Bikes / Fork seal removal
« on: July 27, 2021, 04:12:49 PM »
Almost got the CJ360 completely stripped down and just wrestling with the final few bits.
Footrests for some reason proved really hard to get apart as the pivot pins just wouldn't shift.
On the CJ there's an insert over the pins and these two bits just wouldn't separate until letting the 10 tonne press loose on them - all now safely apart!

Hopefully the very last battle is getting the old fork oil seals out. Normally quite an easy job on every bike I've worked on but for some reason proving a nightmare so far.
Have soaked in penetrating oil, used heat gun, soaked again, used more aggressive heat but they simply don't want to budge.
Even bought a special fork oil seal removal tool but that is no better and starts to bend before anything moves.
The seals are starting to come apart so where the rubber is coming loose I can see the steel rim around the outer edge in one area so I guess there's a thin bit of rubber between this and the fork leg inner face.
I don't want to ruin the legs if avoidable so would welcome any cunning plans to get the seals out.

Cheers,
Andy


2
Other Bikes / Axle clamp stud removal
« on: July 06, 2021, 06:40:01 PM »
Evening all,
Spent the last two days stripping and rebuilding the front end on the GSX1100EZ as there was a weep on one of the fork seals.
Heavy bugger to work on but all went surprisingly smoothly until...
Tightening up the axle clamp nuts and one of the threads stripped at the very end where the nut fits.
I'd like to pull out the old stud and fit a new one but never tried this before and wasn't sure how easy stud removal might be.
Seen a few stud removal tools on Amazon so hoping someone may have a recommendation on which type to use.
The full stud is there with just the last bit stripped so have good thread above that - could try screwing on two nuts as a first option.

Any advice very come - really don't want to strip the front end and forks down again so hopefully can do this in situ.

Cheers,
Andy

3
SOHC Singles & Twins / CJ360T engine advice
« on: June 16, 2021, 02:03:23 PM »
Hi all,
While doing 'final' tinkering with the CJ250T I thought I'd strip the CJ360T to see if she's worth restoring as well (don't ask why, I know they're not exactly in demand!).
Frame and bodywork pretty good generally and mainly original so that's the good news.
The engine is original and doesn't seem to have been messed around with but clock shows quite high mileage at over 53,000 miles.
From strip-down, one piston had a broken ring and obvious damage as well as the head - photo shows this clearly (reminds me of Nurse Julie's engine rebuild and the discussions on cause etc).
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The bores are reasonable generally but one side has a rough patch and a scar as photo.
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The rest of the engine seems generally OK but I haven't gone through it in detail yet as I really wanted to see what the verdict was for the top end before going much further.
No proper engineering skill at all so no idea whether the head is salvageable - some of the pits are near the valve seats and edge of the head surface and not sure if this can just be 'smoothed' down.
The bores I'm sure will need a rebore - on standard size and measurements I took quickly suggest the wear is still below the service limit but clearly need attention. The problem here is getting pistons and rings - I've seen 1mm oversize for both available, or just 0.5 / 0.7 rings and odd pistons so may be tricky getting the full set needed. Is it sane to simply go for the 1mm oversize if parts are available rather than try and source the lower oversize?
Would appreciate views on the head and bores and any idea on cost of rebore as I've not yet had to have anything bored so no idea on price.

Cheers,
Andy

4
SOHC Singles & Twins / Hanging revs
« on: May 22, 2021, 07:18:47 PM »
Hi,
Got the CJ250T back together a while ago but didn't put petrol in a couple of weeks ago when I finally got a chance to play with the engine outside.
Fired up easily but had an obvious leak on the carb manifold rubbers, ran rough and had an oil leak on the clutch side cover.
Back on the ramp.
Ordered new rubbers from Cruzinimage which arrived really quickly and fitted these.
Fixed oil leak (what a pain getting the cover on and off - involves kickstart, brake pedal and exhaust being removed / pulled aside).
Checked points and timing.
Started up much better and idles nicely but revs hang and only drop slowly so need to sort that next.
Cables are free and couldn't find any air leaks on the carb to head or filter rubbers.
I guess this means something inside the carbs needs another clean out but just wondered what else could affect this in peoples experience.
Cheers,
Andy

5
CB350/400 / Side stand
« on: May 13, 2021, 07:29:39 PM »
Here's another puzzle I'm hoping to solve...
The side stand fits and pivots fine but holds the bike pretty well vertically with no lean at all.
Nothing looks bent so I wondered if this is the correct stand for the 400 or something that's been swapped previously.
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The stand is also quite a loose fitting onto the frame bracket and seems to have a spigot for second spring which made me think it could be the wrong one maybe?

Cheers,
Andy

6
CB350/400 / Front brake bracket
« on: May 13, 2021, 06:22:30 PM »
Another question on the 400 ...
On the CJ250 the final section of front brake hose is held in place by a bracket which is part of the front mudguard and I assumed this would be the same on the 400 but the mudguard on my bike hasn't got any bracket for this.
Is the bracket a separate part or have I got the wrong mudguard etc?

Cheers,
Andy

7
CB350/400 / Spokes
« on: May 13, 2021, 06:01:43 PM »
Hi all,
A question on old wheels spokes hoping someone can help with.
I've got a set of wheels with 'reasonable' chrome on the rims but with fairly rusty spokes.
As the bike they're going on is far from shiny I don't really want to re-spoke the wheels or end up replacing / re-chroming the rims either.
The back wheel has a couple of spokes that sound a bit flat but with a tweak tightened up so I think they can be adjusted as they should be.
On the front wheel there are a couple of bent spokes and some sounding flat so at least a couple will need replacing, the remainder probably look like they can be adjusted OK.
Ideally I'd like to just clean up the rims, replace any damaged spokes and then just clean them as well but I wondered what the view is on keeping old, rusty spokes with just a bit of replacement for damaged ones and tightening of loose ones - is that safe or is there a real risk of the spokes being weakened from age, neglect / rust?
Cheers,
Andy


8
CB350/400 / Weeping brakes
« on: April 21, 2021, 05:02:27 PM »
Finally getting back to doing some work on the bikes after a seemingly endless series of diversions.
On the recently fitted (new pattern) brake caliper I've got a slow weep from both the bleed nipple and the screw connector into the caliper for the brake line.
Don't want to tighten any further so guess I'll drain, remove and refit so I wondered if there is something people recommend for these threads to help seal the joints?
Cheers,
Andy

9
Misc / Open / Gate Posts
« on: January 20, 2021, 03:31:48 PM »
Not sure if there is a limit on how far off topic is permitted but here goes...
Looking to fit aluminium gates to the drive for security / privacy and having spoken to a few specialist companies am thinking of doing most of it myself instead - none inspired any confidence!

I've been trying to find out some at least rough ideas on what is needed for concreting posts into the ground to support the gates.

Thinking about the enormous range of careers / specialities / experience / ingenuity displayed on the forum I thought maybe someone has some knowledge they could share?
Cheers,
Andy

10
CB350/400 / Brake pad spacer
« on: January 01, 2021, 06:40:31 PM »
About to fit the front brake and the pads have come with a plastic ring spacer which looks to fit to the back of the pad and against the piston.
Looks like it fits neatly on the 400 piston so assume it should be fitted.
Haven't seen this before so just wondered if it is common - presumably to allow pads to fit to varying piston sizes maybe?

Cheers,
Andy

11
CB350/400 / Tyres
« on: December 03, 2020, 04:37:09 PM »
Having finally built the wheels and then been distracted from the workshop for a while, it's now time to sort the tyres.
First set is for the CJ250T but as wheels are the same as the 400 I'm hoping for a bit of advice / recent experience.

After many calls I've found the local KTM garage seem really helpful and are happy to fit tyres and also check over the wheels I built to make sure they are true and tensioned properly.
Happy at that as I can well remember fitting tyres many years ago and have no desire to revisit that painful struggle!

Are there any recommended tyres for these bikes - not after anything sporty (CJ250T and sporty don't really go together!!) but ideally reasonable cost and a bit classic look.
I've had a Google and have no idea what tyres are good or bad these days so any help appreciated so I can get them ordered up and over to the garage.

Cheers,
Andy

12
SOHC Singles & Twins / CJ250T brake pipe
« on: October 30, 2020, 05:32:12 PM »
Hi,
Struggling to find anyone who can do replacement brake hoses and pipe for the old CJ250T.
Anyone have any ideas?

Cheers,
Andy

13
CB350/400 / Speedo knob
« on: October 26, 2020, 08:01:17 AM »
No, not a reference to a bizarre retro swimming trunk ailment!

I wondered how the trip meter knob is removed on the speedo?
Also, can the rubber cover on this be replaced without opening the clocks (assuming the rubber bit is available)?

Cheers,
Andy

14
CB350/400 / Head bearings
« on: October 20, 2020, 11:28:16 AM »
Just been fitting steering head bearings to the CJ250T (I know it's not the 400 but very similar!) and had the same issue as on the 400 where the tapered bearings reduce the clear thread on the adjustment nut.
These are JMT bearings from Wemoto, on the 400 I had the same issue with All Balls ones.
After the 400 problems and having the old original bearings to hand I took time to measure them and the bottom one with washer supplied is exactly the same height, the top one comes out around 0.9mm higher.
Once fitted this allows about 2 to 2.5 full turns of the adjustment nut and I wondered if this is enough to be safe or if I need to do further work to get more hold on the thread.
Cheers,
Andy

15
CB350/400 / Wheel Building
« on: October 19, 2020, 09:58:40 AM »
Hi,
Finally seems DSS are getting both DID rims in stock shortly so I've ordered these up and am just wondering what tools are worthwhile / essential.

I guess a spoke spanner - Amazon have a few different ones but any recommendations very welcome

Is a stand of some kind essential / useful / just another dust-collecting bit of kit for the garage?

Cheers,
Andy

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