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Quote from: 400 Cafe Racer on November 16, 2021, 11:09:41 AMQuote from: TrickyMicky on November 15, 2021, 10:57:42 PMI've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??DennisYes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube. For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!! Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?
Quote from: TrickyMicky on November 15, 2021, 10:57:42 PMI've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??DennisYes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube. For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!! Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?
I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
Be careful of what material you use to make the bracket. Heat will be conducted from the mounting on the engine, and the cable will very likely be in contact with the bracket. I think whichever option you choose the cable is routed through an area of high temperature. New cables are not mega expensive, and do not take very long to replace, probably quicker than changing the oil and filter, and we do that every 1,000 miles approx without a thought. Plus as I said earlier, when you use the clutch for the first time with a new cable it recreates that ancient feeling of "Oh God, that feels good!"
All the parts books seem to show the clutch cable bracket & heat insulating ring as items 216 & 217 but the bracket is described as a brake cable part?
Hi Ted, Other models in the SOHC range used a guide for the clutch cable, possibly the 750/4. I have'nt seen a guide for the 400F for sale for quite some time so although others might not be the same shape they would do the job. Graham