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By all means use that jet "for now" but I would be purchasing one to have in the spares box ready for the next time the carbs come apartSent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
I'd like to support the contra view,
Use 3.2mm line for the small inter connecting pipes Woody, little smear of silicon grease/oil on the brass ferrule and they'll slide on easy. They never need to be removed except when the carbs are dismantled and TBH a tight fit is far better than a loose one in this location. I'd advise the same on the new O-rings, I used to fit 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 carb bodies together with the T pieces and the inter connecting tube and fit one pair to the bracket very loosely, insert the spring retention pin between 2 & 3 and then insert the other pair, again very loosely. You could then connect the lifter arms to each carb before tightening the screws up a little. Might be me but I'd fit all the jets etc after getting to this part, the carbs will stand on the tops of the carbs quite well making it easier to work on. I'd put the top covers on last of all. Check that the 2 screws fitted to the butterfly system are doing their jobs along with the eccentric cam bolt. Instructions in the manual.
How are the felt rings fitted to the lifter arms Woody?
I've just starting making some of the felt washers for the carbs Woody, I'll send you 4 to test if your interested, FOC.I soak mine in silicon oil as it lubricates the lifter arm thus ensuring a smoother throttle action. Proper float gauge is always a worthwhile investment, they ain't dear. Have you by any chance got a brake bleeder, one of those that sucks out the fluid from the bleed nipple? Saw a decent video today of one of those being used to test the float valve seat, connect it to the fuel intake and pump the bleeder, gauge goes up indicating vacuum created, this whilst the carb is upside down and bowl off, if the vacuum starts to drop there is a leak, maybe on the seat to valve area or possibly the O-Ring on the valve seat not sealing. If you spray it with WD40 for instance you can actually see the air being sucked down past the O-ring. We all assume that leaks are caused by bad seating or wrong float height but we all seem to ignore the O-ring as a potential cause.
Well now you have a use for that bleeder You could try sealing off one end of the T piece, connect the brake bleeder to it via a suitable pipe, fit the float valve seat (don't forget O-Ring) and the float valve plus float and pin and then stand on it's head so the float is depressing the pin, then see if you can maintain a vacuum, I suppose like mine it has a gauge on it which increases the more you pump. If it works maybe you could take a video and show the results so others could copy.I'll get you 4 new felt rings in the post Woody, let me know how they perform, the problem with them is that they are so fragile, any sideways stress gets them tearing. I'll pre-soak them in Silicon oil as well. Yep 22mm is right
My experience tells me that replacing even for new Oe ones is best done before they get too bad, they tend to snap off flush with the head as that’s where the majority of the rust is and being so close to the head you normally don’t see it until it’s too late. As you can imagine getting one out when it’s snapped off flush is not easy
Wow missed this thread but the bike in the first photo’s looks fantastic... i always liked the look of the F models even though I actually owned a K3 back in the day... that marshall pipe is in deed a period item and looks to be in amazing condition i hope you decide to keep it but it must be worth a few bob if you dont..?. I had the exact pipe on mine and it did sound nice, not too loud.