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Oil pressure issue / motor rebuild

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K2-K6:
Well done for getting sorted out. It's a nice feeling when you get it all back together and running.

I don't think anyone would have guessed at the outset of your problems that it would have such an obscure fault built into it by the previous owner.

The throttle cables are correct, the pull cable has no option for tensioning at the carbs. Just fit and secure with the collar nut. Any adjustment of that one is at the twistgrip but you have to leave enough slack to avoid it pulling the carbs when turning the bars full left and right. The second/return cable is the opposite, having no adjustment at the twistgrip. When you fit that one, make sure there's enough slack so that it doesn't conflict with the pull when at full lock.
With the bars turned fully you should get no binding in those cables at all. If you have, it'll make the throttle much heavier to use. It'll also start to cut the internal sheathing inside the two sharp bends that come out of the twistgrip which also raises the friction in operation.

One area that's not ordinarily considered with batterys if they don't kick out enough grunt when starting is both the sprag clutch, which if driven slowly fails to pinch and drive the crank immediately. This will shorten the life of the sprag in extreme cases as it doesn't really wear much when it drives correctly. And the other being the starter itself,  if the start power is lower than ideal then the time you are using the starter can easily be doubled or tripled unnecessarily. They will, if all set up and working well, just start easily and often on the first push of the button.

It'll be nice for you to get out and enjoy it soon, it seems like you've properly debugged it now.

MrDavo:
I haven't had time to readjust the clutch yet, but I found the problem with the throttle. The quadrant had been turning on the shaft, it just needed the set screw tightening and the locknut nipping up. I also rerouted a fuel pipe as it was fouling the Tickover adjuster.

The bike then did something it has never done before- it started instantly from cold! That could be a benefit of the ultrasound bath Ed gave the carbs, he has a video of the crud boiling off them. Before it was a sod from cold. It had been yesterday, but the tickover screw wasn't even making contact, a bit of throttle was needed to start up for the first time.

It sees to be running sweetly, it may be a while until I borrow a decent set of vacuum gauges, but the carb top threads haven't been disturbed. Lock to lock doesn't change the revs, which is good. I'm not getting it too hot, but when I put the Harley back together I was advised to let it go through as many heat cycles as I could to bed it in.

I've tightened the valve adjuster caps now, one of the ones I'd left finger tight developed an oil leak, so its definitely getting up there ok.

Laverda Dave:
That's a lovely looking bike.  When you rebuild a bike it doesn't matter how dark, wet or cold it is you MUST start it just to see if it runs  :).  The feeling of satisfaction when the job is complete is immense and can only be tamed by a couple of beers with your feet up and a smile on your face  :), I'm waiting for that moment with project 400  ::)
Well done and hope it sails through the MOT.

K2-K6:
They do once set up properly start really easily, I think the whole bike is easy to run really but they just look a bit complex.

I'm rethinking how to approach vac gauges on this basis; if the demand on wide open throttle are the same for all cylinders and you set the carb slides to be the same mechanically, then why would you adjust them at idle speed to correct idle smoothness? Surely that's the wrong thing to do.
Honda's description for idle adjust is to warm engine, get stable tickover of 1000rpm and then turning one idle screw inwards until you get a 100 rpm drop in revs, then turn the screw out by 1 1/4 turns to set the correct place for that screw. Reset overall idle speed with main tickover adjuster and then complete another cylinder, continue till all are done. I feel this process will give you even and matched demand for all cylinders. It should  be running smoothly at this point.

It does give a routine for the vac gauges, but the tolerance is not that tight. I think people pay too much attention to this without first setting their idles correctly for each cylinder, so in effect the throttle slide positions relative to each other are distorted in an attempt to cope with any error present in the idle circuits.

MrDavo:
I've been fettling this afternoon, now starting and running sweetly, and the clutch is adjusted correctly now, but its frustrating that I can't go for a ride yet, due to no MOT and damp salty roads. I did fix the faulty indicator, a wire had popped out of a connector which I tightened up in the headlight. Next chance on dry roads I will go for a sneaky spin, or just go straight for the MOT if they've a slot free.

Motor looking good back in frame, newly shiny cam cover looking good. I think the stainless hoses are a bit blingy but they'll stay like that. In my picky eyes the best improvement is the new shiny stoplight switch spring, the old one was painted silver. New side panel badges, the old ones had worn off chrome, Number 7 and 8 bolts everywhere, and you can see Rich's damper rubbers in place. I know the allen screws on the clutch cover are wrong, before you say, but they fit nicely and I haven't got the Honda ones yet.



Outside in daylight for the first time, final touch for Sgt Pinback was a new rubber on the end of the clutch lever, which I found in my box of new bits, as that one was split and kept falling off.



Thanks to you guys for all your help, especially Ashimoto for the crank, which hopefully will have a long and happy life in its new home.

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