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Hettie wont start on the button !!

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Nurse Julie:
 :'( :'( :'(
Hi Chaps
Went to take the CB400/4 out today and for the first time ever, she would not start on the button. She has not been standing as have taken her out 3 times this week and she started fine with the kick start today. On the button it sounded like the solenoid was clicking, but then no noise at all from solenoid. Took her out for a ride hoping battery would charge but nothing. Definitely charging as lights go brighter when revving.
Battery charged to 15A on meter (off the bike), dropped to 13.7A after 3 hours. Have tried another new battery and tried 3 other solenoids, still nothing, had starter motor out which was turning freely on the button but then that stopped turning also. Tried keying the solenoid between the terminals and there were sparks. So, it appears battery has enough amps to start bike, unless 13.7A is not enough, power is getting from battery to solenoid and power is getting from solenoid to starter motor. What's happening and what do I try next ?
Ta in advance
Julie xx

hairygit:
Think you're getting volts and amps mixed up young girly. Can trigger do a drop test on the battery for you ( that does NOT mean dropping it on the floor!) as it may have a cell that dies under starting load.

stevush:
Maybe dodgy contacts on the button ? try a bit of contact cleaner in the switch.
I'd remove the starter and earth it somewhere then hit the button to ensure that its spinning OK when disengaged from the engine, if not then trace wiring back to the switch, if it is then it isn't engaging correctly :)

Steve

Nurse Julie:

--- Quote from: hairygit on July 16, 2016, 07:30:12 PM ---Think you're getting volts and amps mixed up young girly. Can trigger do a drop test on the battery for you ( that does NOT mean dropping it on the floor!) as it may have a cell that dies under starting load.

--- End quote ---
Yes,sorry, I always get them muddled up Hairy. Graham builds engines, he admits he hates electrics. How does he do a drop test?

hairygit:
If he doesn't do electrics he almost certainly won't have a drop tester. Take the battery to any tyre/exhaust/car battery place and they will do it for you (hoping to sell you a new overpriced battery!) and if it checks out okay, you need to start checking the battery cables and connections (cables can break inside the insulation from years of vibration), still give enough power to sort low consumption items like ign system, indicators etc. But before any of that, with the engine not running, put your headlight on, and watch it carefully for one minute, if it dims noticeably, your battery is f##ked!

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