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CB750 Barn find project - First Timer
Underdog1:
yeah I'm going to do away with indicators, no time for that nonsense.
Will look up those connectors you mentioned.
As I'm waiting out on this key to arrive I'm just familiarising myself with the bike. Came across this tube which looks to be some sort of breather or overflow tube. Not quite sure what its for though.
Top end is near the battery
Other end comes out next to the centre stand
AshimotoK0:
I may have some of those connectors somewhere, if I can find any I will dig a few out for you (free) . Good thing is you can solder them as well as crimp. I have the hand crimper in the loft somewhere ...today that tool costs over 350 quid!
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JamesH:
--- Quote from: Underdog1 on July 26, 2016, 05:30:54 PM ---
--- Quote from: Jamesh_sussex on July 26, 2016, 04:57:20 PM ---Looks like you have a K2 tank and seat fitted. The K2 tank has the fuel tap (with two outlets) on the RHS.
Given the rusty fuel tank, get yourself one of these so you don't contaminate the carbs (once you've checked and cleaned them) when you first run the bike after basic inspection / servicing..:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351510130564
I've recommissioned several US import 750's and they are generally pretty bullet-proof. Do yourself a favour and get her running nicely first before you start spending out too much...
James
--- End quote ---
Ah that would explain it, i take it i can just run two fuel lines from it (one to each pair of carbs)?
Just bought that remote fuel tank, was literally about to bodge one together out of an old petrol can and hosepipe ;D
Started work on cleaning the rust out the tank
Gwarn science lad!
--- End quote ---
Yeah - just run a pair of individual lines and you'll be fine.
That overflow tube by the battery tray is for the battery overflow (for lead-acid batteries). If you use a sealed / agm battery you can do away with it.
Underdog1:
--- Quote from: AshimotoK0 on July 27, 2016, 02:09:40 PM ---I may have some of those connectors somewhere, if I can find any I will dig a few out for you (free) . Good thing is you can solder them as well as crimp. I have the hand crimper in the loft somewhere ...today that tool costs over 350 quid!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
--- End quote ---
That would be awesome, cheers bud!
--- Quote from: Jamesh_sussex on July 27, 2016, 02:38:41 PM ---Yeah - just run a pair of individual lines and you'll be fine.
That overflow tube by the battery tray is for the battery overflow (for lead-acid batteries). If you use a sealed / agm battery you can do away with it.
--- End quote ---
Yeah took the rear fender off and there was a little sticker underneath with a diagram of it :D
Underdog1:
So another day and the replacement keys still haven't turned up! The doubt the set i ordered from the code on the tank lock are even going to fit now as (a previous poster alluded to) the ignition should have a code on it somewhere unless it is aftermarket.. and i can't find one. Called a local locksmith and he quoted me some silly price to cut a key so I've just ordered an aftermarket ignition and key from eBay. If it turns out the set of keys I've ordered do fir then i can just return it i suppose.
So with not really much else i can do right now I've looked at the tank this morning, its been on the electric chair for over 2 days and I've conditionally ben scraping all sorts off the sacrificial anode so its definitely done something. I emptied it out sprayed some WD40 inside and swilled it out with methylated spirt before drying it out with a hair drier.
Suprisingy it doesn't actually look any better than before despite the crap that came out of it
and after looking deeper inside with a torch i found what looks like some sort of old sealant inside towards the front end of the tank
so with my best screwdriver i tried to scrape it off and found it to be quite hard
only managed to get a small bit out
Any tips on how i can strip all this shite out? Its probably the reason why the electrolysis didn't work as well as i thought it would
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