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CB750 Barn find project - First Timer
Underdog1:
--- Quote from: mickwinf on July 30, 2016, 01:42:38 PM ---500 fours and 250/350 use smaller versions.
--- End quote ---
Perfect.
Underdog1:
So being the tight arse that i am i made my own bearing retainer removal tool today
Worked pretty well.
Didn't get long to work with the bike, didn't manage to get either wheel bearing out, should they just slide out each side at this point or do i need to be pushing them through and out the other side? My haynes manual just states that at this point the bearing can be removed. Might be a case or trying to yank them out with a screwdriver i suppose.
The threads on the bearing retainer look mega delicate being very fine aluminium, is this something that is usually replaced when changing wheel bearings?
Current state:
Chris400F:
--- Quote from: mickwinf on July 30, 2016, 01:42:38 PM ---500 fours and 250/350 use smaller versions.
--- End quote ---
Do they all have the same 'ratio'? I believe some tachos differ between models; I had a couple with different ratios printed on the back of the casings.
Note also that 250/350/360 twins and 350/400 fours have 18" front wheels while 500 and above have 19", may also affect your choice.
Underdog1:
--- Quote from: Chris400F on July 30, 2016, 05:12:27 PM ---
--- Quote from: mickwinf on July 30, 2016, 01:42:38 PM ---500 fours and 250/350 use smaller versions.
--- End quote ---
Do they all have the same 'ratio'? I believe some tachos differ between models; I had a couple with different ratios printed on the back of the casings.
Note also that 250/350/360 twins and 350/400 fours have 18" front wheels while 500 and above have 19", may also affect your choice.
--- End quote ---
Ok cool that's given me something to consider, although I doubt an inch difference in diameter is going to affect things massively as its only roughly 5% difference in running circumference. I'm sure these speedos are pretty inaccurate anyway #maths
Underdog1:
Oooookay,
So a few bits arrived in the post today, my replacement ignition and remote tank which got me a little excited as finally i can see if this thing starts right?
So first thing i notice is in key position 1 i seem to have power, the neutral light comes on, if i press the horn i get a very weak sounding fart noise,no headlight and unfortunately I've already stripped off the brakes and rear light so can't check those right now. Key position 2 the neutral light goes out and the horn ceases to work so somethings going on there. The connectors that go into the ignition connector block short with each other mega easily but i made sure they weren't touching each other and still no luck. Electric start also didn't do anything.
Anyway i thought its worth trying to kick it anyway to see what happens, plumbed in my remote tank (credit to Jamesh_sussex for the link) and fuel just immediately pissed out of carb 1&2 from the areas circled. Haven't got my haynes manual to hand so apologies for the lack of technical terms (and knowledge hah).
is this likely to be stuck floats? Was hoping i could see if it would run first before rebuilding the carbs but looks like this is going to be my next job. Just want to hear the old gal growl :-[
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