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Keihin jets

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AshimotoK0:
Well that was scary  :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[. When I laid my bike up in my bro's  barn in '86 I deffo drained the carbs but left the tank full of petrol. My nephew/niece used to play on it when it was in the barn  and all I can assume is that they must have turned on the petrol tap at some point 'cos there was horrid smelling fuel in the carbs. Just hoping they will ultrasonicaly clean out  OK. Then I will treat them to a Yamiya carb kit rather than Keyster or Cruzinimage ( don't trust any of Cruzinimage's rubber components).

The standard main jet is 75 but mine had 90's in, which I assume came with the K&N's it was originally fitted with. No need for swapsies , you can have them, as everything is in the Yamiya kit. Perhaps someone has another size too for you to swap.

http://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=179_273_207_214&products_id=3041

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tom400f:
Ash - they will clean out just fine. Main problem would be if the pillars supporting the float pin have corroded away at all. Be careful in case they are weak.

AshimotoK0:

--- Quote from: tom400f on July 28, 2016, 03:05:03 PM ---Ash - they will clean out just fine. Main problem would be if the pillars supporting the float pin have corroded away at all. Be careful in case they are weak.

--- End quote ---

Cheers .. Yes ..I am making a tool to try to push the pins out out without putting any undue  force on the pillars. The other thing that concerned me was the bottom of the casting that the main jet fits into but it looks OK internally. I have one carb body in the US cleaner at 70°C at the mo' in Allendale carb fluid, so fingers crossed. I think I will remove the cam cover too and put a bit of Trigger recommended Graphogen on the top end before I start it. I put STP down the bores in '86, as I remember and it does turn over fine. I am replacing the Antrares Red tank with a Varnish Blue one (as it's an early F)  and the Blue one is squeaky clean inside. If I remember correctly, I think cam cover comes off without removing the engine. Is that correct anyone?

IronJimcb ...hope I am not hijacking your thread?  :-[ :-[

Orcade-Ian:
Hi Ash,
Yes the cam cover comes off and back on easily with the motor in the frame.  It's how I do it on my own - bottom half in, barrels on, head on, cam cover on, breather cover on.  I'm getting too old to lift a complete unit into a pristine freshly painted frame!
Ian

Trigger:

--- Quote from: AshimotoK0 on July 28, 2016, 03:38:11 PM ---
--- Quote from: tom400f on July 28, 2016, 03:05:03 PM ---Ash - they will clean out just fine. Main problem would be if the pillars supporting the float pin have corroded away at all. Be careful in case they are weak.

--- End quote ---

Cheers .. Yes ..I am making a tool to try to push the pins out out without putting any undue  force on the pillars. The other thing that concerned me was the bottom of the casting that the main jet fits into but it looks OK internally. I have one carb body in the US cleaner at 70°C at the mo' in Allendale carb fluid, so fingers crossed. I think I will remove the cam cover too and put a bit of Trigger recommended Graphogen on the top end before I start it. I put STP down the bores in '86, as I remember and it does turn over fine. I am replacing the Antrares Red tank with a Varnish Blue one (as it's an early F)  and the Blue one is squeaky clean inside. If I remember correctly, I think cam cover comes off without removing the engine. Is that correct anyone?

IronJimcb ...hope I am not hijacking your thread?  :-[ :-[

--- End quote ---

Graphogen is for new bearing surfaces, NOT old Ash

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