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Which Engine Oil should I use ?

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Greebo:
As you can see from my avatar I have a fully restored /rebuilt K6 café racer style.

I am using Motul 5100 semi synth' 15w50.but it is quite expensive which is not really an issue,
But after seeing this very cheap oil on the forum I was just wondering [without getting into too much technical jargen] if it its good enough as some members are saying

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Oil-Triple-QX-Premium-SAE-10W40-Part-Semi-Synthetic-5L-A3-B3-B4-5-Litre-/400698136407?hash=item5d4b785757:g:YpIAAMXQyY1TVkaX 

Chris400F:
Interesting how the pack states that it is for Petrol and Diesel vehicles given the earlier comments about the additives in oil for diesel vehicles.

Personally I have been using this stuff:
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=209&sector=Motorbike
It is a motorcycle-specific oil; you can pick it up for a bit over £20 for 4 litres which is fine by me.

K2-K6:
I was certainly thinking along the lines of modified engines in my answers as I believe you are taking it toward considering how to look after something that could have elevated torque and heat loadings. In that case it's relevant to look into what you could do.

For standard engines that don't deviate from normal running the demands are really not that great.
Bryanj offers some really good advice on oil which I wouldn't argue with or his reasoning as you don't need to spend alot of money to look after them.

I'd view them like this,; I don't believe any of these 4cyl Hondas have an intrinsic problem regarding lubrication. They seem to have got their R And D bang on if you consider the bearing sizes, cam lobes, gear design etc and how long they have lasted, as a result they don't need anything special in the way of oil spec to look after them.

BUT categorically they need clean oil above any other criteria, so whatever you use you need to make sure it's kept up to scratch to avoid wear.
Common with any carburettored engine with very basic choke to get them going. If you have a high proportion of cold starts relative to proper warmed up hot running, then you'll prematurely contaminate any oil you choose with unburnt fuel, condensation and various byproducts of combustion, principly acids as I understand it, making any starting specification of oil fairly academic. It will, when contaminated sufficiently fail to do what you are asking of it.

The Motul you are using is a very good oil but you're probably going to have to discard it way before you've got any value back from it so you might as well spend less and change it more often.

Bit of an odd habit is smelling the oil (Yeh I know I should probably belong to oil sniffers anonymous)  ;) but if you go and smell the new oil in the bottle to calibrate your nose, then take the dipstick out of the bike and smell it........ Usually you'll get varying degree of petrol.

Many of these bikes unless used more extensively will be the same, and it doesn't do them any good.

It all depends on personal attitude to synthetics (now there's another whole area of discussion) and if they are appropriate, but you can get 5ltrs of VW 505.01 spec oil (in gold coloured container from asda) for £13 currently that I think is a really good oil which I've used in many of the engine's I'm looking after. With low bike usage you'll probably be changing it in less the a thousand miles anyway as it'll reek of petrol.

Trigger:
Oil is a bit like some people recon Nike trainers are the best, a trainer is a trainer to me. Just think about the trade, mine comes in big containers with TRADE on the side, as long as it is to the right spec, I am happy. Change your oil often, as most engine damage is because the oil breaks down.

Greebo:
Good shout Trigger

Same as the Grub in Sainsburys & their "Taste The Difference" products that are almost double the price of the standard Sainsbury Brand...the prices & the packaging are the only "Real Difference".  >:( 

Thanks also to K2-K6 !

Greebo

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