re-jetting needed?

[totty]

You've got a whole mix of symptoms going on, not surprised you're going crazy.

There's probably more than one problem, might be time to find a local specialist or a dyno tuner who's good at diagnostics.

[Greebo]

You've got a whole mix of symptoms going on, not surprised you're going crazy.

There's probably more than one problem, might be time to find a local specialist or a dyno tuner who's good at diagnostics.

Yes I agree, not sure where you are located El_Burro...but  I have let you and everyone else on here know "Please Do Not Use Torquetune at Ollerton"
he made an absolute & complete bollocks of my carbs & another company had to sort them out, it cost me a not once but twice..
Thankfully now mine is running great, but it nearly drove me crazy at the time.

[El__burro]

Getting close..
I realized that carb 4 (choke) slide wouldn't open probably causing most of the problems. Also testing the coils realised that some wire and cap connection were loose.
Anyway after a short ride i could feel the 3rd part of the throttle not pulling much power.
What next?
Thanks
el__burro



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[totty]

Are you confident that you've found all issues and you're ready to go back to jetting, or do you want to check for more issues?

For jetting you'll need to start with the mains and either keep increasing until you've gone too rich then go back a step, or do plug chops, or a rolling road.

A full checkup would be along the lines of

Ignition:
Advancer not seized, and confirmed working by strobe
points not pitted
points gap and timing correct
condensers tested, or a visual check for points not sparking
primary and secondary resistance check for both coils
plug cap resistance check (plug or cap should be resistor type but not both)
consider new plugs

Carbs:
chokes open as already covered
all passages clear
all jets showing no signs of wear
float heights set and float valves tested
all throttle open evenly, fully and are static balanced
no inlet manifold leaks
clean airfilter(s)

I'd also do a compression test

To be honest last time I had a flat spot to deal with I replaced the entire ignition system with a Boyer kit, it saves a lot of time and effort if you don't have to focus on both fueling and ignition at the same time. Although in your case I'd try to go back to standard airbox and filter so you can run stock jetting.

[El__burro]

A full checkup would be along the lines of

Ignition:
Advancer not seized, and confirmed working by strobe 👍
points not pitted 👍
points gap and timing correct👍
condensers tested, 👈 》trying to test but what's the best way?

visual check for points not sparking👈 》actually points 1/4 have a tiny blue spark when operating.

primary and secondary resistance check for both coils
plug cap resistance check (plug or cap should be resistor type but not both)👈》 that's next. I'm not sure about result on primary coil.
consider new plug 》Are this the right type? (pic)

Condensers?
Thanks
el__burro



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[totty]

I don't recognise the first 3 plugs, the NGK ones are resistor plugs, you can tell by the R in the name.
You shouldn't mix resistor and none resistor plugs on the same coil. I think but I'm not certain that you shouldn't have both resistor plugs and caps. Check your caps by part number or resistance.

[El__burro]

The plugs in grey (24..)
are the ones that came with the bike a while ago, i have used them until now. No problem.
The blue ones are new, couldn't use them as I have just learned (thanks to you) that the cap has a resistor too (VD05F 5KO)
Any good tips to test the condenser on the points. Or eventually a good shop.
Tried loading up and look for a spark (like in clymer pic)
but none of the 2 have it..
Thanks
el__burro


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[totty]

I'm not sure how to test a condensor, looks like the test in the manual is to charge it and look for a spark on discharge, I've just googled it and come up with two answers that I'll paste below, but a spark at the points makes me think a condensor has failed.

By the way I don't think condensors can give the symptoms you've described, but failed ones will wear out the points quickly so it's worth sorting out while you're on.
While you've got the meter out I'd check those plug caps are all still 5Kohm as rated as they can fail, and also the coil primary and secondary resistance - I don't know the correct values but someone on here will and they might be in the manual.
Once everything tests OK I'd then use the strobe, or carefully check that all exhaust headers heat up from cold to too hot to touch quickly and evenly to confirm that it's firing on all cylinders. Ignition should then be all sorted.


Capacitor test instructions from google:

Choose your tool. Even cheap digital multimeters often have a capacitance setting "– ...
Shut off the power. ...
Discharge the capacitor carefully. ...
Disconnect the capacitor. ...
Set the multimeter to measure capacitance. ...
Activate REL mode if present. ...
Connect the leads to the capacitor's terminals. ...
Wait for the result.

OR

To test the capacitor with a multimeter, set the meter to read in the high ohms range, somewhere above 10k and 1m ohms. Touch the meter leads to the corresponding leads on the capacitor, red to positive and black to negative. The meter should start at zero and then moving slowly toward infinity.

[El__burro]

Latest update.
After testing the resistors and deciding they are gone, i have ordereda set this morning.
Not sure about coils testing
Here is my finding
Primary coil 4.6 ohms
Secondary coil, plug to plug 14.8,
Plug to (any)pigtail wire 1  .
The same reading for both coils.
All of this whith the coils mounted on the frame.
Fail or..?
Thanks
el__burro

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[El__burro]

Monologue update.
I received the new condensers from DSS (1 day after order, Impressive)
Put them on, all good, bike starts and revs properly.
Still i see a spark on both points, 1-4 also bridging on plate too.
Also noticed 3 of 4 coils leads arcing onto the frame too at the top connection
Not sure how serviceable are the leads to plugs but they should be better isolated.
Concerned about the bridging sparks on the points. Then workon the needle position again.
Getting there
Thanks
el__burro


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[hairygit]

You need to sort the arcing of the coil leads to the frame as a matter of urgency, any arcing of HT leads will cause loss of power to spark plugs, as that will cause all sorts of problems, and will only get worse. Ashimoto done a great step by step of fitting new leads to coils, you'll find it in the "Aladddins cave" section. There is no point doing anything else before that!

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[Bryanj]

Condensers REDUCE the sparking at the points they do not ELIMINATE it

[El__burro]

Thanks, i have disvovered the Alladins cave, very interesting.
I could fix the ones i have or ..
what's your opinion on the replacement in the photo below.
Thanks
el__burro


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[Green1]

Nothing wrong with those coils I run them on the 550 and 750.
Mike runs then on his CR750 as well

[El__burro]

PERFECT.

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